1st African tank?

[Jman17H]

I have decided that I am going to attempt to do a Malawi Lake tank and need to make sure I have my basics down.

Tank is 75 gallon.

Substrate of sand with maybe a bit of small dark brown rock mixed in just to give some different texture/color.

Large pile of rockwork using mainly limestone but probably a bit of sandstone and granite also. I am probably going to build this (or at least the bottom layer) before the substrate goes in so the cichlids do not dig around it and make it unstable?

Filter will probably be way overkill but I got a Eheim 2260 canister with a recently purchased 150 breeder tank and decided to use 2 large HOB with ithe 150 as a planted tank. This filter is almost the size of my shop vac and I have at least 3 gallons of bioballs to go in it. I also plan to use filter floss in it and it seems that crushed coral is recommened? i know a pH around 8 is needed so will the coral take it there and keep it there?

Is the normal el-cheap-o flourescent light probably fine? I do planted tanks so I have several of the low watt things laying around of various sizes.

As for fish this is probably where I need the most advice. I really like the look of the Yellow Labs but somewhat understand that they may be a little less agressive that most other options. What could I put with yellow labs and how many of each would be recommended. I also really want to have some snyodontis catfish?

Any helpful advice would be great.

I still have several days or more till it is up an ready for I have to clean the tank and then do the decorating and grow some bioloaded bioballs.

Also, I am used to algae battles with planted tanks but with a pH that high are alqae problems common and if so what creature do you use to fight that is somewhat native to that area? Would MTS be a good snail to add? I have tons of them to pick from my old planted substrate tonight.

[JustOneMore20]

I am probably going to build this (or at least the bottom layer) before the substrate goes in so the cichlids do not dig around it and make it unstable?

That sounds good. Another thing you can do to make it more stable (and less worrisome for you) is to get some plastic eggcrate. You can get it at Lowe's in the lighting section and its really cheap. I used it in my 55g just to have more peace of mind about my big rock stack.

I also plan to use filter floss in it and it seems that crushed coral is recommened? i know a pH around 8 is needed so will the coral take it there and keep it there?

Overkill on the filtration is really best. You'd be surprised how messy these guys really are. I put CC in my filter just because my pH is around 7.4. I know that for tank raised fish, that pH would be fine, but I feel better having it higher so its closer to their natural pH. What is your tap pH after the water has set out for 24 hours? That may help you decide if you need crushed coral or not. The CC will raise the pH and keep it there. You can check your pH weekly or so to see when it starts getting a bit lower. Then its time to change out the CC. I believe in another thread, FishyFanatic said she changes hers about every 6 months.

Is the normal el-cheap-o flourescent light probably fine?

That would be fine. I got a double flourescent fixture for my 55g Malawi just because I wanted to have some Vallisneria in there and they need more than stock lighting. If you don't plan to have any plants, or just want to stick with Java fern and Anubias, then a stock fixture is fine.

What could I put with yellow labs and how many of each would be recommended. I also really want to have some snyodontis catfish?

You can keep Yellow Labs with other Africans that aren't too aggressive. I am keeping mine with P. socolofi albinos, Cynotilapia afra cobue, and A. jacobfriebergi (Eureka peacocks). The Cobue are the most aggressive right now, but usually just to each other. The Snow White Socolofis are a tad aggressive as well, but the Labs can hold their own. I would definitely have a bigger group of Labs than the others, since they are less aggressive.

In a 75g, you could have for example: a group of 6 Labs and then have 3 other groups of 4.

Do you want alot of variety, or are you planning on having 2-3 big groups?

I believe the 2 smaller types of Synos are multipunctatus and petricolas.
http://www.scotcat.com/articles/article24.htm
http://www.scotcat.com/factsheets/s_petricola.htm

Also, I am used to algae battles with planted tanks but with a pH that high are alqae problems common and if so what creature do you use to fight that is somewhat native to that area?

Algae is common. I have more than stock lighting on my tank, but I'm not sure that had anything to do with it. I battled brown diatom algae first (and it was horrible), but it turned to green algae after that. It coats the back of my glass and the rocks, but it looks really natural and I actually like it. I have a thread in the FW Showoff section with tank pictures...I'll update it today so you can see the algae background I have.
The Mbuna actually eat some of that algae, but they don't clean the place up. I have little marks on the back glass from them eating it. I don't know of anything common to the area that would take care of most of it though. Plecos aren't common to the area, but I considered getting one...only to hear some horror stories of the Africans picking at plecos eyes...so I abandoned that idea.

I think with the stock lighting, you shouldn't have too much algae, but don't hold me to that.

Whew...that was long...

[godzilla]

I dont think that filter is overkill in the least! I run 2 2217's on my 55gal Malawi tank. I have 6 labs and 17 ps. demasoni, along with 2 plecos. The filters work hard. I use CC as my substrate, so my pH sits around 7.8 with the Columbus city water. I have medium light (130W PC) and have a brown algae coating on all my original plants, but all the new plant life looks great. My pleco's eyes are in tact, but they cause more waste then they clean up. they do keep the glass clean but my plants are still suffering (will be moved to the 29 planted asap)

I would say with a tank that size you can easily choose 3-4 other species to go along with the labs. I have not noticed any aggression towards the labs from the ps. demasoni but they sure do keep each other busy.

If you are not doing plants, normal lights are fine. You may want to consider a 50/50 setup to bring out the color of the fish, but that all depends on what you decide to stock it with.

[maxwell1295]

It looks like someone has really done their research! That's good to see.

You've also gotten some really good advice above. I have to second the overfiltration....I also have 2 Eheim 2217s on my 55G mbuna tank along with 2 AC50 pwerheads.

[Jman17H]

I do not plan to do plants since I already have a 150 planted and 30-Long planted so this is an attempt to feed my MTS and in the process try to create as little work as possible.

I always tried to do my homework before I take the test.

Should I use a powerhead. I use them in the planted just to make sure CO2 is evenly distributed but that will not be a necessary need here.

A lot of the fish selection i guess will probably depend on what I can find around here and at what cost. I will have to go to a few places this weekend and see what they have. I am not real good with scientific names (they seem to just get tossed from my brain) so what should I look for in fish-store dumbed down language.

I definetly know I want yellow labs and I think I have hunted down some snyodontis but completely up for suggestions otherwise. How many snyodontis should I go with? I have a feeling that the ones I will find will be Lake Tangakara (or however you spell it)? Will that be an issue?

I just know I really do not want to have a need to get a bigger tank to house the africans in. My basement bar is slowly becoming my fish room and the next thing to go would have to be the stereo which defeats the bar purpose.

[jamesrm]

About filtration for these guys, I am setting up my 55g, and I have one XP3 on it. Should I get another one? I know that is like a 12.7 turnover per hour, but would be good current and media supply. I could also fit more CC in there

What ya think?

[JustOneMore20]

You can take a look here: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profile...gory.php?cat=2 at some of the Malawi Mbuna species and see what catches your eye. Some are more aggressive than others so, so pay attention to that. They have common names on their too. Thats where I started researching the types of fish I wanted...then I asked about them on here to see what people's experiences were with them.

Should I use a powerhead. I use them in the planted just to make sure CO2 is evenly distributed but that will not be a necessary need here.

Its up to you. I have a Rena XP3 on my Malawi tank and thought that would be enough filtration, but then I needed more surface agitation because I was having a nasty film on the water (also from overfeeding), so I decided to add an Aquaclear HOB that I had here. If I didn't have that laying around, I most likely would have bought a powerhead. I'd
wait and see if you need one though...chances are you won't.

I have a feeling that the ones I will find will be Lake Tangakara (or however you spell it)? Will that be an issue?

Not at all. They are also from the Rift Lakes, so share the same pH requirements. Lots of people keep Synos in their Malawi tanks. Just make sure you have enough rockwork for them to hide in as well.

Pseudotropheus acei and Rusty cichlids (Iodotropheus sprengerae) are other Mbuna that would be fine with the Labs.

[Jman17H]

Should I run an airstone in the tank. I am used to planted tanks and have almost weened myself from the thought that they are needed. I am guessing that since this is a cannister and there will be less surface agitation that I should?

This will also be my 1st cannister filter so any hints towards its cleaning regiment and operation could be helpful?

I should not have a problem with lack of rock work but even if I do need more rock, limestone is easy to find here. I keep loaches in my planted tanks so rock works are nothing new to me.

[maxwell1295]

Labs will work with fish that are moderately aggressive. The key is to stock enough of each species that the aggression stays within that group and does not crossover to the the others. For the most part mbuna aggression is conspecific (among fish of the same species) and the majority of that is aggression by the males towards the females in an attempt to get them to spawn.

Problems arise when there are either too few females or too many males. The ideal ratio is 1 males for every 3 to 4 females. That way the aggression is spread around amongs the females and the males do not need to compete for the same female. There are exceptions to this rule (Labs, Rusties, Acei, Saulosi, Demasoni are a few) that only need to be stocked in enough numbers to keep themselves busy. Male/female ratio is not as important as having the proper numbers.

[godzilla]

you can never go wrong with a powerhead. the added circulation helps keep the tank clean, and my fish LOVE the current. I took a spraybar and aimed it down along the back glass to create a wall of current, and my fish swim through it constantly, like a game. they sit in front of the powerhead like dogs with their heads out the window....

The fish selection in columbus is hit or miss. I got my ps. demasoni from aquabid for a very reasonable price. AA wants 16.99 each for them!!!

You can mix fish from malawi and tanganyika, but research your choices carefully. the 29 gal I picked up came with 3 tanganyika fish (one didnt make the transfer) but the other 2 are doing great. one is a striped clown goby (Eretmodus cyanostictus) and the other is one I havent tried identifying yet

Sounds like you have the start of a great tank.

P.S. Where are you getting your limestone?