Feel silly asking. pH for african cichlids

[Convict2161]

I pretty much know the answer but the question and I do feel silly asking is, I haven't tested my water in over 2 months. I know... Shame on me. Everyone is healthy or appears healthy. No deaths, all always appear hungry when I walk by the tank, jumping up outta the water and all swimming close together just waiting for the food.

Temp is good at 77.8-78.00

I decided to test my water since it has been that long and I came up with a pH reading of 7.8

I have no buffer as I ran out and with everything that was going on with the storm and the aftermath and ALL the overtime I've been working I've just been doing my water changes an adding Prime.

Is it ok that the pH is 7.8? I've read yes and no.

It use to be 8.0-8.2

Now it's a nice dark blue.

I was planning on using as little chems as possible including any buffers etc...

All I use is Prime an that's it.

 

[Slade]

7.8 should be fine. It's better to stay consistent than to have it fluctuate when you add buffer. I usually go a month or two between tests unless I suspect a problem.

 

[Convict2161]

7.8 should be fine. It's better to stay consistent than to have it fluctuate when you add buffer. I usually go a month or two between tests unless I suspect a problem.

That's what I figured. Thanks for the reply. Always like to get other opinions. They seem fine.

 

[herp_mommy]

It's better to stay consistent

I second this.

 

[Scottyhorse]

Yeah, just stay steady!

 

[Convict2161]

Thanks everyone. Always good to get others input. Honestly I hate using buffers etc... So the past 3 months I've just been doing water changes and just using Prime.

Less money spent and less to worry about. Always measuring buffer etc...

As long as everyone looks happy and healthy which they do then I'll leave well enough alone.

 

[Wolfsblood]

I hate messing with buffers also. As long as the cichlids are tank bred they will be fine. I have mine in 7.6 water.

 

[phin]

7.8 should be fine. I would watch for flashing against sand/rocks. That could be a sign your fish aren't comfortable with the hardness of the water, but a pH of 7.8, if it stays constant, is just fine.

 

[Convict2161]

7.8 should be fine. I would watch for flashing against sand/rocks. That could be a sign your fish aren't comfortable with the hardness of the water, but a pH of 7.8, if it stays constant, is just fine.

Hmmmm.... Flashing you say? I've observed flashing not my many, maybe 2-3 the most and not a lot. Should I be concerned? Maybe a media bag filled with crushed coral like I've done for a year?

Maybe wouldn't be a bad idea? Again I should know all this BUT in anything else in life it's always could to talk about it and get others (more experienced) input.

Thanks and Happy New Year!

 

[phin]

Hmmmm.... Flashing you say? I've observed flashing not my many, maybe 2-3 the most and not a lot. Should I be concerned? Maybe a media bag filled with crushed coral like I've done for a year?

Maybe wouldn't be a bad idea? Again I should know all this BUT in anything else in life it's always could to talk about it and get others (more experienced) input.

Thanks and Happy New Year!

What is your Gh?

When I've seen flashing in my tank its because my Gh was too low. try adding epsom salt or a cichlid lake salt mix like seachem or kent makes. They will increase the hardness without generally effecting pH. The specialized salts include other trace minerals in addition to the magnesium you would get from just using epsom salt.

 

[Convict2161]

I have the salt just never haven't used it in forever lol. I'll add a little. Poor guys. Hope there not uncomfortable.

 

[Andrew McFadden]

I agree add Epson salt that's all I add extra at every water change

 

[Convict2161]

I agree add Epson salt that's all I add extra at every water change

Ahh... What took you so long Andy?! So brother, do I need buffer or the salt is fine? I really wanna go as natural as I can after reading some books and watching some YouTube vids. Just water changes and I guess some salt.

Now... Salt at every water change?

 

[phin]

Ahh... What took you so long Andy?! So brother, do I need buffer or the salt is fine? I really wanna go as natural as I can after reading some books and watching some YouTube vids. Just water changes and I guess some salt.

Now... Salt at every water change?

What is your Kh? That will determine if you need to add buffer.

 

[Andrew McFadden]

Ahh... What took you so long Andy?! So brother, do I need buffer or the salt is fine? I really wanna go as natural as I can after reading some books and watching some YouTube vids. Just water changes and I guess some salt.

Now... Salt at every water change?

Yea just like your saltie tanks. I use this http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/buffer_recipe.php but without the baking soda and I only add aquarium salt if I have it.

I haven't been getting on as much since the snow (that won't stop coming down) and the holidays.

 

[HUKIT]

No I think it's a huge waste of time and money honestly, we are talking about tank raised fish that are hundreds to thousands of generations past wild caught its ridiculous. These fish were born and raised in straight tap water, no RO water, no buffers, and no cichlid salts. I've been raising rift lake cichlids for decades in tap water at 7.6-7.8 no issues. I'd love someone to tell me that they're happier in salt and high PH or that their colors are better in those conditions...I call shenanigans! I've got thousands of pictures of fish to say otherwise.

With regards to flashing that's nonsense as well, all fish flash occasionally for a variety of different reasons but to think that's it solely based on KH or GH...again shenanigans! If they are doing that occasionally and not constantly then don't worry about it(you've got 40 fish and only 3 flashed is nothing concerning)keep your nitrates below 20ppm with water changes, feed a high quality food, and enjoy your tank and your savings.

 

[rotorhead22]

No I think it's a huge waste of time and money honestly, we are talking about tank raised fish that are hundreds to thousands of generations past wild caught its ridiculous. These fish were born and raised in straight tap water, no RO water, no buffers, and no cichlid salts. I've been raising rift lake cichlids for decades in tap water at 7.6-7.8 no issues. I'd love someone to tell me that they're happier in salt and high PH or that their colors are better in those conditions...I call shenanigans! I've got thousands of pictures of fish to say otherwise.

With regards to flashing that's nonsense as well, all fish flash occasionally for a variety of different reasons but to think that's it solely based on KH or GH...again shenanigans! If they are doing that occasionally and not constantly then don't worry about it(you've got 40 fish and only 3 flashed is nothing concerning)keep your nitrates below 20ppm with water changes, feed a high quality food, and enjoy your tank and your savings.

So this means that all of those folks that swear that GBRs or Discus are very sensitive to pH levels especially for spawning, are also full of hot air? As most of these were also captive bred.

No doubt that animals adapt quickly to their environments but I don't think all fish would thrive in any pH even though they were bred in a fish farm.

It might be silly but I would rather keep them in as close to their natural African Rift Lake habitat as possible, well at least the pH. Millions of years of evolution created the Lake Malawi Cichlids with their very specialized physiology adapted perfectly to their surroundings. Yeah, today's Mbuna don't have to graze on algae (although I have tried to grow algae) and their teeth will probably end up evolving into something very different (something we won't see) but in the interim, I and many other folks will probably continue to have limestone and aragonite substrate to keep the pH at ~ 8.2, even if it is just to amuse ourselves

 

[Andrew McFadden]

This will always be a strong discussion topic between us all. I see both sides to this and I've done both sides aswell. I don't add much other than Epson salt. I don't use crushed coral, marine salt, liquid rift lake salts or rift lake minerals. I have tryed some of these and I didn't see a difference in aggression, colors, shapes or flashing. So it was a waste of money for me when I tryed it all ill agree to that. But some of the fish did seem to flash more before I started using the Epson salts so I kept using it. Just my 2 cents

 

[Convict2161]

This has turned into a great topic, and I thank everyone for there input.

 

[HUKIT]

So this means that all of those folks that swear that GBRs or Discus are very sensitive to pH levels especially for spawning, are also full of hot air? As most of these were also captive bred

Well it's completely unrelated but I'll bite, one of the reasons is simply due to supply and demand. When the demands for a particular fish arrises the demand must be met, but how do you ask? Well inbreeding and overbreeding is the number one cause of health concerns those fish face. Like so many before such as the nein tetra they will be almost worthless. Look at the ebjd, a few years ago they were $5-10 now with demand LFS are asking $60 each and 80% don't make it past three inches.

With regards to your opinion on PH and salt they're your fish but until there is proof in the pudding I'm calling BS.

I have tryed some of these and I didn't see a difference in aggression, colors, shapes or flashing. So it was a waste of money for me when I tryed it all ill agree to that. But some of the fish did seem to flash more before I started using the Epson salts so I kept using it. Just my 2 cents

That's exactly what I'm saying. Now the flashing in your case may just be a swing in PH, because the Epsom salt will act as a buffer.

This has turned into a great topic, and I thank everyone for there input.

Not really, it's just like the old time fish keepers who use aquarium salt during every water change...why because that's the way they always did it. Science and research has taught us many things with regards to fish biology and diet requirements leading to long term health. And no where in my opinion does salt come anywhere into play(except treatment of illness).