water changes

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You would think....

I don't use charcoal so wouldn't that change this?
And as for a water conditioner and minerals: I have a 50 gallon trash can that all my clean new water goes to after water changes then I add the conditioner and minerals to that and it sits for 4 weeks there before going into my tank. I have an air hose that runs to the bottom of it. So wouldn't that change things that your saying aswell?
I also use that water for top offs witch is a little more then a gallon of water every 3 days. So some minerals are being put back in before my 4 week water change

Sorry I've been doing this for a long time and have had a lot of thoughts over the years on why and how I do things. But I can say one thing I should have joined a forum a long time ago to understand more.

I used the charcoal example because when we had this discussion, carbon wasn't being used. Both charcoal and carbon act as a filter/ purifier so except for some certain exceptions, it's not a bad thing to use.
Topping off from evaporation: There are certain minerals that don't evaporate when the water does. Salt, (NaCl) is one of them. So as your water evaporates, the salt level increases allbeit slightly in a freshwater tank. When you add water for evaporation, you are adding some more salt to your water through the chemicals you are using to dechlorinate/ dechlorimine the water. Once again, this change may very well be insignificant to the overall volume of water and the fish, depending on the type, may show no ill effects of this change.

Another thing to remember is that your system is a living breathing system. Your bacteria beds are constantly growing and shrinking depending on the bioload. Removing larger volumes of water also can create drastic changes in this area too. Say you have just inadvertently overfed your tank and there are pockets of uneaten foods that your bacteria bed is growing to adjust to the ammonia load. You may or may not see this change in an ammonia reading. Now say that bed has blossomed and you do a large water change so that the ammonia level has now decreased drastically and you are now starving all those new bacteria that were produced to reduce the ammonia load. What do they do? They die off to a manageable level once again thereby causing a slight rise in the ammonia level and the cycle goes on. I used excess food in this example but a dead fish as well as other natural occurances can be substituted for the food. The bottom line is that there are changes that you are not always aware of that are occuring in your tank that larger water changes do effect. How much it effects the fish in the system varies from specie to specie.

In all honesty, I prepare the water I am going to use for a water change the day before I change it. Right now I am on well water so I don't add anything to it, just salt. When I had my hatchery, I had a Culligan carbon filter that removed the chlorine/ chlorimine from the tap water and we used that water straight from the hose. No other pre-prepping required. When I had my wholesale house, we used a Culligan filter with a PH adjuster and used the tap water straight from the filter to do water changes. (The PH adjuster was because we were importing a lot of fish from S. America and did a slow change to our higher PH water here in FL.) Once again, smaller changes more frequently enabled these fish to adapt better to the changes.
And that's really the bottom line. The smaller the changes, the easier it is for the fish to adjust to the changes no matter what they are. I know everybody has different experiences with their tanks and I am usually a proponant of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" except when it comes to water changes. In a saltwater tank, there are natural items that can be grown in the tank and consumed by the fish that replace the needs for water changes. What I have found is that fish kept this way over long periods of time, do not adapt well once moved to a new system. In my last move, I gave my fish to my friend's store to hold while I made my move (some 200 miles away.) I had had the three fish he was holding for a minimum of 8 years ( the longest being 13 years) so obviously, whatever I was doing must have been right. You'd think so wouldn't you? None of my fish lasted more than a week at the store. I supervised EVERYTHING so I know that everything with the change was done correctly yet they still didn't survive. In my freshwater tanks, I changed the water all the time. Whether from habit or whatnot, I had no problems with them. So that's why I still say that doing smaller changes more frequently will have a better effect on the fish than larger changes less frequently.

Be assured that I take no offense to your questions. I am not a scientist (& I don't play one on TV :D) so I can't give you all the scientific reasons why things happen. What I am is a guy who was trained by a certified Ichthyologist and has successfully kept and bred a wide variety of fish for a huge number of years(47+) with minimal problems doing what I have done for all these many years. There must be a reason why this happens wouldn't you think? ;)

Class dismissed? :D:brows:
 
All right once.again with a long one, you should right an article. Just saying

With me almost all my life ive had city water now I have well water, so that changes things? Like you was saying if I read and understood this right. With well water you don't need to dechlorinate/dechlorimie? I do run my water from a hose to my trash can with a ge water tiler with charcoal /carbon filter. I keep lake Malawi cichlids so my ph is perfect for them. Since I use my water does that mean I don't need to add Malawi. Minerals to it, since that would be a change up or down that I don't test for?


That would be cool to have a friend ichthyologigst to learn from. If there is anything more you could share it would be great. I even thought about working at the zoo/aquarium here to just be able to learn. But I simply don't have the time and that's one reason why I went from saltwater back to fresh.( the other was cost) but I'm going to get back into it in the near future. Or just flood my basement Lol j/k
 
I did forget to add that I dont use charcoal/ carbon as i thought it removes all chemicals good and bad as in minerals. Out of all the research I've done it say lake Malawi is very high in minerals so I was thinking its best to not use it.
Also everything in my tank seems to be doing great breeding and everything should I change what I'm doing and just do 18 gallons a week or is that to much of a change since I haven't been doing it? I just figured if it test fine I don't need to mess with it, so I don't.
 
Well water...

All right once.again with a long one, you should right an article. Just saying

With me almost all my life ive had city water now I have well water, so that changes things? Like you was saying if I read and understood this right. With well water you don't need to dechlorinate/dechlorimie? I do run my water from a hose to my trash can with a ge water tiler with charcoal /carbon filter. I keep lake Malawi cichlids so my ph is perfect for them. Since I use my water does that mean I don't need to add Malawi. Minerals to it, since that would be a change up or down that I don't test for?


That would be cool to have a friend ichthyologigst to learn from. If there is anything more you could share it would be great. I even thought about working at the zoo/aquarium here to just be able to learn. But I simply don't have the time and that's one reason why I went from saltwater back to fresh.( the other was cost) but I'm going to get back into it in the near future. Or just flood my basement Lol j/k

If your well water comes directly from the well to your house, then there should be no chlorine or chloromine in it unless you are adding it to the water. As for adding malawi minerals, I'd do a little test. Use the product for a few treatments and see if the fish look better or act better than they do without the stuff. That truley is the best answer I can give you and best way to know for sure. Well water is different in all parts of the country so just using the term "Well Water" only means that it's not city tap water.
As for writing an article, back in the late 70s and early 80s, my customers kept telling me I should write a book since I had so much knowledge and always seemed to be able to help them out. I declined because I knew too many people in the biz who would be pissed at what I had to say :brows: Maybe when the rest of my friends retire from the fish biz, I'll write a book and title it "Fish keeping, just do what I tell you to do and don't ask so many questions!" LOL :lol::lol: Just kidding.
As for my Mentor, He was a friend of the family who went to school with my Mom and owned his own pet store in town. What was unique about his store was that EVERY fish that was sold in the front of the store, was bred in either the back of the store or at his house. He took me under his wing when I was 7 years old and made me an accomplished fish breeder by the time I was 9. I learned so much from this man that I could never have learned on my own especially at that age. I've tried to pay homage to him by doing for other aquarists what he did for me. Unfortunately, he passed away not long after I had moved to FL (I was 16) so he never saw the fruits of his labor with the hatcheries I've built for myself. If he knew that I was producing fish in such quantities, he probably would have been floored. :D I owe everything I am to him and will never forget him.

Hope this helped (y)
 
How big...

I did forget to add that I dont use charcoal/ carbon as i thought it removes all chemicals good and bad as in minerals. Out of all the research I've done it say lake Malawi is very high in minerals so I was thinking its best to not use it.
Also everything in my tank seems to be doing great breeding and everything should I change what I'm doing and just do 18 gallons a week or is that to much of a change since I haven't been doing it? I just figured if it test fine I don't need to mess with it, so I don't.

How big is the tank? 18 gals would be a good change (imo) for a 180 gal tank once a week. It would be a bad change if it was a 35 gal tank once a week (imo) :blink:
 
Well then....

It is a 180 but holds around 210 gallons with filters and refugium


Well if that's the case, I'd do 18 -20 gals per 7-10 days as a regular schedule. Your fish, more than anything else, will tell you if they agree with me or not. If their behavior changes for the better, that's great. If their behavior changes for the worse, reduce the amount of water per change.
What the fish are telling me (based on you writing that they are breeding and such) is that the water parameters at that time are to their liking. Why would you want to screw that up by changing it so dramatically with a large volume water change?

That's how I would handle it.(y)
 
Hey I do have one last maybe simple question and I asked it and I think you missed it but here it is. Does the Api test kit go bad? I think you said yes but do you know how long they last for? Cause maybe that's why I never show nitrates or nitritesanyways I cant find a use by date on it and I have had it for a long time. Well I guess it did work at the beginning. Of the year when it was cycling.
 
This is good. Now that the whole Tebow trade is settled, I can focus back on this thread.....
 
I have learned more in this thread then any advice I have received over the years. honestly mostly was wrong until I started visiting this site.

Thanks!
 
Simple answer.... :D

Hey I do have one last maybe simple question and I asked it and I think you missed it but here it is. Does the Api test kit go bad? I think you said yes but do you know how long they last for? Cause maybe that's why I never show nitrates or nitritesanyways I cant find a use by date on it and I have had it for a long time. Well I guess it did work at the beginning. Of the year when it was cycling.

To answer your question, yes, the reagents do have an expiration date. Look at the package or on the reagent itself and you should see an expiration date on it. Reagents that go bad won't give you an accurate reading and not always give you no reading so keep your eyes open for it. 1 other suggestion, a reagent that expires in say March, should really be replaced a month or so before then. You want the freshest reagent to give you the most accurate reading.
If you still cannot find a date on either the box or reagent, replace them. Better safe than sorry. Keep track of how long you keep the reagent and contact API to find out how long they suggest you keep reagents and the proper way to maintain reagent integrity. Things like Temp, light, darkness, etc. all can effect the reagents if they are liquid and time effects the powdered ones.

Hope this helped (y)
 
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