10 gallon to 29 biocube

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zhuber

Aquarium Advice Freak
Joined
Oct 5, 2012
Messages
267
Location
Florida
So I had the ten gallon but its become difficult being my first tank no sw experience just fresh decided to make my life easier and upgrade I have 40 gallons live sand and I'm getting 15 lbs of live rock tomorrow to put in now my lfs which is a sw only store and has had two guys working there the owner advised no upgrades needed besides lighting if I want hard corals and put a heater where the pump is and add two power heads which I have already on each side. Also he said since the rocks cycled there is no cycle that will happen in the tank which is not the first time I've heard that anyone else have input?
 
Personally I wouldn't trust that the live rock could handle the bio load in a new tank without making absolutely sure It's cycled and ready for fish. The last thing you want to do is risk losing fish because you rushed it. You can cycle it with a piece of raw shrimp from the grocery store.
 
Personally I wouldn't trust that the live rock could handle the bio load in a new tank without making absolutely sure It's cycled and ready for fish. The last thing you want to do is risk losing fish because you rushed it. You can cycle it with a piece of raw shrimp from the grocery store.

Well I know it's cycled because the rock has a lot of hitchhikers even zoas and the rock is in a tank with coral and tangs in it if any of that makes a difference
 
I upgraded my 10 to a 20 using the same rock from my old tank and all. I still had a mini cycle and had some deaths. If you make the switch quickly, you will have a mini cycle. I would personally cycle the new tank first and slowly add. Just take it slow and do it right the first time you know. Saltwater is all about going slow.

When cycling the tank, you don't need a light at all really, so start cycling the tank tonight and in a few weeks you'l be ready to do the transfer the safe way! :)
 
I upgraded my 10 to a 20 using the same rock from my old tank and all. I still had a mini cycle and had some deaths. If you make the switch quickly, you will have a mini cycle. I would personally cycle the new tank first and slowly add. Just take it slow and do it right the first time you know. Saltwater is all about going slow.

When cycling the tank, you don't need a light at all really, so start cycling the tank tonight and in a few weeks you'l be ready to do the transfer the safe way! :)

Yeah I'm thinking that's best I'm wondering why he said do it that way then?
 
Maybe he wants you to start buying stuff from him ASAP? You never know. I would trust the people on here! They have been such a great help to me, that I would never trust another lfs employee like I trust people on here! I'm so jealous that you have this biocube! I'm excited to see it form! Spend the next weeks cycling and perfecting that aquascape, and make this one amazing tank! I'll definitely be following along
 
Maybe he wants you to start buying stuff from him ASAP? You never know. I would trust the people on here! They have been such a great help to me, that I would never trust another lfs employee like I trust people on here! I'm so jealous that you have this biocube! I'm excited to see it form! Spend the next weeks cycling and perfecting that aquascape, and make this one amazing tank! I'll definitely be following along

Yeah I thought that to but then he said dont add anything for a while. But your right better safe then sorry for sure
 
Also, I can tell fish store owners do things differently than most hobbyists. They deal with so much stuff that they cut corners on certain things because they could afford to lose a fish or two you know? For example, I recently traded corals with this guy who has a 1000 gallon system and he put my coral right Into this frag tank, no acclimating or anything.
 
Also, I can tell fish store owners do things differently than most hobbyists. They deal with so much stuff that they cut corners on certain things because they could afford to lose a fish or two you know? For example, I recently traded corals with this guy who has a 1000 gallon system and he put my coral right Into this frag tank, no acclimating or anything.

Well this one isn't your average lfs it's called treasure coast corals open four days a week and the two guys I live near a area with money so people put together these tanks they get paid 100 a hour to maintain them and acclimate fish and corals for them so they don't have to much room for error the stores probably 70 percent corals 30 percent fish
 
You're lucky to have a place like that! :)

Ultimately, it's you're decision on which advice you go with! I'm sure either way you will be okay!! It's just better to not have to stress about losing fish and stuff. I lost my cleaner and i was devastated :/
 
You're lucky to have a place like that! :)

Ultimately, it's you're decision on which advice you go with! I'm sure either way you will be okay!! It's just better to not have to stress about losing fish and stuff. I lost my cleaner and i was devastated :/
I might just wait to move things
 
Plus another thing my ten has a bad car of cyano on the glass so that's kinda making me wanna Pinot in at once as well even though there's risk
 
When I set up my 10 gallon before upgrading to 27 gallon I used live sand and live rock from a reputable LFS here in LA. The tank did go through cycling.

I tested water every day and the best the live rock and sand did for me was keep toxic chemicals such as ammonia at lower levels. For example API test kit says 4.0 ammonia spike is normal for a new tank.
Highest ammonia spike in my tank registered at 0.25-0.50. Highest nitrite was 0.25 and highest nitrate reading was 20 or so.
I know for a fact it went through cycle bc I had that little ammonia spike followed by spikes in nitrites and then nitrates. However, they weren't as bad as the test kit suggested.
In conclusion, your tank WILL through cycling.
 
When I set up my 10 gallon before upgrading to 27 gallon I used live sand and live rock from a reputable LFS here in LA. The tank did go through cycling.

I tested water every day and the best the live rock and sand did for me was keep toxic chemicals such as ammonia at lower levels. For example API test kit says 4.0 ammonia spike is normal for a new tank.
Highest ammonia spike in my tank registered at 0.25-0.50. Highest nitrite was 0.25 and highest nitrate reading was 20 or so.
I know for a fact it went through cycle bc I had that little ammonia spike followed by spikes in nitrites and then nitrates. However, they weren't as bad as the test kit suggested.
In conclusion, your tank WILL through cycling.

Your right I'm gonna give it a few weeks its just tough cause everyone's situation or experience or advice is different cause there's so many ways of doing things but waiting would be best your right. I just gotta get rid of the cyano in the small tank I have now cause I got two corals not doing so well.
 
Plus another thing my ten has a bad car of cyano on the glass so that's kinda making me wanna Pinot in at once as well even though there's risk

Pictures of your 10gal setup with as much info as you can give us will help. There are many many successful reef keepers on this site.
Cyano is caused by excessive phosphates, Overfeeding and using tap water instead of ro/di water are the 2 biggest reasons for Cyano.
What water source are you using?
What are your parameters?
Lights? And how long are they on?
Filtration?
Temperature?
What fish and how many?
We will help you any way we can. Just increasing your tank size alone will not fix your problem. You must understand why your having the problem before you can fix it.
 
Pictures of your 10gal setup with as much info as you can give us will help. There are many many successful reef keepers on this site.
Cyano is caused by excessive phosphates, Overfeeding and using tap water instead of ro/di water are the 2 biggest reasons for Cyano.
What water source are you using?
What are your parameters?
Lights? And how long are they on?
Filtration?
Temperature?
What fish and how many?
We will help you any way we can. Just increasing your tank size alone will not fix your problem. You must understand why your having the problem before you can fix it.

I have two t5s 48 watts I use freshwater bought from the store for water changes 15 lbs live rock two small clowns parameters are fine I'm cleaning it out today big water change so I can move it so if parameters are off that should straighten it out and I feed nori once a day
 
You can suck the Cyano off the sand and glass with a piece of airline tubing so you don't mix it back into the water.
 
You can suck the Cyano off the sand and glass with a piece of airline tubing so you don't mix it back into the water.

Where would I buy that? And everyone makes modifications to there biocube do I need any? Everyone does lighting I've noticed but it has two 36 watt bulbs that's 72 watts plus the LEDs that's more then two watts per gallon so why upgrade? Plus what's wrong with the filter?
 
Where would I buy that? And everyone makes modifications to there biocube do I need any? Everyone does lighting I've noticed but it has two 36 watt bulbs that's 72 watts plus the LEDs that's more then two watts per gallon so why upgrade? Plus what's wrong with the filter?

The airline tubing is the flexible tubing you use for an air pump to an air stone. Pet smart petco or Walmart or any fish store will have it.Use it like a siphon tube and suck the Cyano out of the tank.
No one said anything about your filter or light needing to be changed.
You don't want to just scrape Cyano off the glass. It's bacteria and if you just mix it into the water it will just spread.
 
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