Good invert for clean green algae from tank

[Tonynose188]

I reduced my light and have reduced my feeds as a result of have green algae and the start of red slime algae. I was wondering if the is a certain invert I could out in my tank to clean the remaining. (I took the rock that was covered and scrubbed it in saltwater).

Also while I got you here haha I have a button polyp and half is closed up, perimeters are all good and the coral has been I the same spot open for 2-3 weeks, and do I need to move it?

Thanks everyone

 

[Tonynose188]

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

Are you using RODI water for your topoffs and PWC's, or tap water? The reason I ask is because there's a difference between cleaning up algae and finding what is causing it. Sure, an emeral crab and some hermits will help eat the algae, but it's best practice to find the source of the problem to begin with...

 

[Tonynose188]

RO/DI water my reading of TDS is. 001 which is close to perfect. I feed alot of food to the fish I had everyday and I have added pyto feast for the Corals every other day. I also add calcium/alkalinity chemicals to the tank and iodine for my corals, could thst be it?

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

I would test for phosphates. Anything higher than .03 is going to be considered high. If you are high on phosphates, you can run GFO, and increase water changes. Looks like you already cut down feeding which is good...

 

[Tonynose188]

Also I added 2 spot gobies and they have moved sand around the tank and on to certain rocks could that cause this to happen.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

That purple looks like coralline no? It's good if it is...

 

[Tonynose188]

Ill check my phosphates later tonight but does this mean I should get a reactor with gfo and another note is I wanted to and have set up a refugium which I was going to add chaeto algae too could that help my levels

 

[Tonynose188]

Ya i got a ton of coralline which is awesome it was under that algae lol but that one rock was the only one with algae issues

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

Cheato will help with nitrates, GFO will help with phosphates. I run GFO right in a media bag on my HOB filter (not the most effective way, and is a pain because you have to roll the GFO in the bag every few days) but it works.

 

[Rutrag]

That purple looks like coralline no? It's good if it is...

I agree. I don't see any cyano, but I think I see hair algae and coralline. You can manually remove hair algae while dropping nitrates and phosphates and maybe raising magnesium.

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

You may also be able to keep everything in check with more frequent water changes. I started reading phosphates at .25 ppm and had green hair algae, bumped up to 2 weekly PWC's and GFO seemed to do the trick

 

[Tonynose188]

You may also be able to keep everything in check with more frequent water changes. I started reading phosphates at .25 ppm and had green hair algae, bumped up to 2 weekly PWC's and GFO seemed to do the trick

How are you running the gfo? Reactor

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

In my HOB filter in a bag. A reactor is ideal, you can snag one on BRS with a pump for like $80

 

[Tonynose188]

In my HOB filter in a bag. A reactor is ideal, you can snag one on BRS with a pump for like $80

I will be putting in chaeto algae I'm my hob refugium ill look into adding a reactor but is there any inverts that will eat the algae just in case like one that does it the best

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

Once I get my 75 transferred with 30 gallon sump I'll run a reactor in the sump. I didn't want to run one in my DT because there would be too much head pressure and I didn't want to spend a lot on a pump!

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

I will be putting in chaeto algae I'm my hob refugium ill look into adding a reactor but is there any inverts that will eat the algae just in case like one that does it the best

I've seen my emerald crab slurp up strands of green hair algae like spaghetti lol... Could look into one of those.

 

[Tonynose188]

Back to my ro/Di water should I put a dechlorinator or additive, in it to help drop the. 001 to 000 or install another Di setup. Should I have a power head moving the water.

Another note is 79-80 to hit for the tank or should I go lower

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

No more additives are necessary. Getting a little technical, there are systems for water that is treated with chlorine and systems for water that is treated with chloramines. I called my DPW to find out. I think only 10% treat with chloramines it's not too common. Anyways I digress. 79-80 is fine, that's what I run at in my 55...

 

[Flaxon-Waxon]

And how does the TDS meter read the .001? Mine reads in ppm, and doesn't have decimals. Anything below 10 ppm on the TDS is acceptable from what I've read, but I personally feel that it should be at 0.