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Pisces3473

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Feb 13, 2013
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In Cali
Fellow Salters, I am currently in the very early stages (first 24 hours) of establishing a 10 gallon SW tank. I have some exp with FW however none with SW. I've done some reading and talked with the owners of the LFS. I'm both excited and nervous about this new adventure. Any and all of your advice is welcome and appreciated. Please ask me questions about why I've got what I do cause, but be warned the answer may be 'I don't know' and I'm smart enough to know that. Here we go!

What I've got:

Tank: Standard 10 gallon

Filter: Top Fin Power Filter 75 (Not sure how much it's moving but the 60 does 300 GPH) its got adjustable flow and I've got it set to 50% or the middle. I've looked but cannot locate the specs anywhere. Also, I've got the carbon packs pulled out and am running Phosphate reducer pads along with the black filtration pads. I followed the set-up of the guy at the fish store. He had a 12 gallon Nano w/ 2 Clowns and a HUGE Anemone.

Heater: Top Fin 200 Watt for now, but switching to Fluval E-50.

Thermometer: Digital, with probe set at middle of tank opposite the heater.

Substrate: I used 10 lbs of CaribSea, Fiji Pink for substrate and got 4.7 lbs of Live Rock.

Hood: I've ordered an LED aquarium hood. It's a shallow tank so hopefully this will supply enough light. For now however the tanks getting incandescent light from the old hood.

I've got a test kit for the FW tank and the Reef kit is on the way. I am clueless of where to go from here so all your input is appreciated.

:hide:

Here'a a pic:
 

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I was going to say the same thing about rock. I've heard the ratio of 2lb of rock and 1/2lb of sand for each gallon. I've also heard to just make sure that live rock and sand combined should be 2x tank volume so for you ...20lbs total.

Either way, however you want to do it I think you should add more. :)
 
:thanks: Since you plan on doing a reef I'd suggest getting some more rock. It's best to aim for around 1-1.5 pounds per gallon of rock. :thanks:

:thanks:
I was going to say the same thing about rock. I've heard the ratio of 2lb of rock and 1/2lb of sand for each gallon. I've also heard to just make sure that live rock and sand combined should be 2x tank volume so for you ...20lbs total.

Either way, however you want to do it I think you should add more. :)
:thanks:

Hey guys thanks for the info, I'll be picking that up tonight. Any other advice you could give. I've read the getting started with SW Sticky. When should I do my first Water change? Would 20% be good (2 gallons)?
 
Right now it's running as described I'll be adding more rock tonight. The water and live rock are all from the same system at the LFS. I just put it all together and let it go. Aside from testing do I need to do anything else? The dude at the store didn't tell me anything else was needed, just to test and maintain.
 
Looking good! Just keep on testing til your through your cycle. Could be weeks so hang in there. I might suggest a power head for a bit more movement but that's just me. + 1 for more rock though! What type of LEDs? Just so you are aware you can't add a nem for some time, many people suggest 6 months to a year to allow for your tank to become stable and for you to get he hang of the upkeep, nems require near perfect water conditions and bucket loads of light. If you get clowns they may not host it anyhow, so they won't mind waiting ;)
 
Hi Pisces, your tank looks good, as people have said build up your rock work and I would definitely get some more flow in there as the surface needs to be very rough to allow gas exchange and to airate the water ;)
 
Hi Pisces, your tank looks good, as people have said build up your rock work and I would definitely get some more flow in there as the surface needs to be very rough to allow gas exchange and to airate the water ;)

I added more rock last night, another 10lbs, so that get's me to 10 lbs of sand, and 1.5 lbs of rock P/G. I talked to the LFS where I got the SW, sand and rock, they told the water has already cycled through their system and that if there is a cycle it would likely be very short. I've got the Master Test kit and the Reef Kit should be here in a couple days. I want to learn the Chem of the water but really have no idea what I'm looking for or how to measure.

I don't want to kill anything and I'm being patient. I know I need lights before I do anything, but how long should I wait before adding fish/corals? :fish1:

I still haven't found my final design and plan to have openings on the bottom to allow for better current flow. I searched power-heads last night however it seems most of the info I found was for larger tanks. Any reccomendations for this 10G? I'm down for the flow I just don't know what way to go :dance:

And yes that's my hydro getting the first 12 of it's 48 hour seasoning...
 

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Have FUN!! 10 gallons. That will not keep you for long :p You will want to upgrade soon!! LOL Trust me, I already did...

As far as flow, I would think your filter should be enough for your flow. A power-head might be too strong for that small of a tank. Unless it was a small power-head.
 
Water Flow in my 10 Gallon Salt

Here's a link to YouTube. I've moved the rock around and there's openings at the sand bed to allow for undercurrents as well. If you think I need a powerhead could you please recommend one suitable for this tank. I'm just not sure what to pick up, I know most start about 25-30 bucks, but I don't need to move 800 gph. Or do I?

Water flow - YouTube
 
For reef aquariums 30-50 times turnover is suggested. So no an 800 would be too much. Also when your test kit arrives, test all levels and post them. You may just minicycle.
 
Preliminary water tests

For reef aquariums 30-50 times turnover is suggested. So no an 800 would be too much. Also when your test kit arrives, test all levels and post them. You may just minicycle.

Just did PH 7.6, High range is 8.2. Im not sure the difference in the two tests. My Ammonia is between .25 and .50 ppm (I just can't tell what shade of yellow/ green that is). I'll do the other tests when the Ammonia drops and/or the other kit arrives. These are the preliminary readings. Any suggestions to bring the PH into line?
 
Don't get a damsel! They will terrorize your tank and they will be hard to get out. Plus with a 10g you don't have much room, what was your plan for livestock?
 
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Don't get a damsel! They will terrorise your tank and they will be hard to get out. Plus with a 10g you don't have much room, what was your plan for livestock?

I'm wanting the final to be 2 clowns and on or two Anemone maybe some other corals.

I've got a 40 Gallon at home, but am wanting to get some experience with the smaller tank then I'll move up. Plus I can space out the cost of things. He said I could pick up a Damsel for $5.00 and use it to get things moving in the tank and then take him out later. What would I do with him...
 
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Oh ok, my advise would be the bigger tank will be easier for starters! Small SW tanks are tricky to keep in line at the best of times. A 10g doesn't leave much room for error and swings in temp and salinity can happen fast. If you can I say go bigger now, would be much easier for you. Clownfish are a little big for a 10 anyways. Have a think about it...
 
The lfs said to use a damsel to cycle the tank. So I wouldn't do it. There are a couple of methods to
Cycling a tank. Maybe someone who has recently done it can chime in.
 
Throw in a shrimp from the deli at your local store (uncooked). That will break down and provide ammonia to keep the cycle going. You can also add ammonia. There are lots of threads talking about these methods. Both work. Remember that you want zero ammonia and nitrite at the end. You will have nitrates, which can be lowered by a water change.

I agree with the bigger tank idea. IMO, starting small is way trickier. Parameters, temps, etc can all change really quick in such a small tank. You want stability in saltwater.
 
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