Transitioning 10 gallon fw to saltwater

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aqua7

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Jan 9, 2011
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What do I need to transition my current freshwater 10 gallon glass tank to saltwater?

Any and all advice will be appreciated.
 
What do I need to transition my current freshwater 10 gallon glass tank to saltwater?

Any and all advice will be appreciated.

Ummm

1. Substrate ( I like aragonite sand)
2. Salt mix (I like Instant Ocean)
3. Live Rock, although you could use base/dry rock as well ( I used half and half)
4. Heater
5. Filter ( I like AquaClear filters)
6. Saltwater Test Kit (API is a pretty common one)
7. Hydrometer
8. Powerhead
9. Lights - the type will depend on whether you are going reef or FOWLR.

Can't think of anything else lol. Keep asking questions on here...people are bound to answer based on experience :)
 
I would recommend setting up the tank with the sand, rocks, filter, heater and powerhead and then adding a piece of raw shrimp and letting it cycle first :)
 
all4wheels2 said:
I would recommend setting up the tank with the sand, rocks, filter, heater and powerhead and then adding a piece of raw shrimp and letting it cycle first :)

Yes, but in a mesh bag so that the pieces stay together :)
 
all4wheels2 said:
Ummm

1. Substrate ( I like aragonite sand)
2. Salt mix (I like Instant Ocean)
3. Live Rock, although you could use base/dry rock as well ( I used half and half)
4. Heater
5. Filter ( I like AquaClear filters)
6. Saltwater Test Kit (API is a pretty common one)
7. Hydrometer
8. Powerhead
9. Lights - the type will depend on whether you are going reef or FOWLR.

Can't think of anything else lol. Keep asking questions on here...people are bound to answer based on experience :)

Yes i agree with this. Are you going to buy water from a lfs? If you didnt know, you usually cant use tap water in a sw tank, like you can fw. You might want to look into a RO unit if you done have a close enough lfs. Also, a refrotractor, unless thats the same as a hydrometer? Fo you have a fw api test kit? Bec that would work for sw, just w/ slightly different colors. Also, youll want an extra powerhead to mix RO water in a bucket. And...id say thats it? Youll only need maybe 10-15 lbs of rock in a 10 g. So maybe 5 lbs live, 8lbs base IMO. also, we will need to know if its a reef or fowlr (fish with live rock only). Sorry for any spelling errors and i hope this helps :) :)
 
Thanks guys for all your advice! I feel a warm welcome already!

When it comes to filters... Will my current filter work? (I'm guessing not)

I also have a penguin bio wheel filter not in use at the moment. Can I use that one?

For now I plan to only have live rock and no plants, but might go for an anemone later on as I'm hoping to get 2 clown fish in the tank.

Also, if I was to (be able) to get 2 clown fish what species should I get and could I also add a shrimp?
 
aqua7 said:
Thanks guys for all your advice! I feel a warm welcome already!

When it comes to filters... Will my current filter work? (I'm guessing not)

I also have a penguin bio wheel filter not in use at the moment. Can I use that one?

For now I plan to only have live rock and no plants, but might go for an anenomie later on as I'm hoping to get 2 clown fish in the tank.

Also, if I was to (be able) to get 2 clown fish what species should I get and could I also add a shrimp?

Oh i didnt know you were new...WELCOME!! :):)

Im not sure what your current filter is, but a penguin would do fine for a small 10g. But some things you might want to know about anenomes, they're pretty tough. They should be only added to a tank after a year of it being established. Also, clowns wont always host (sit in 24/7) an anenome. It isnt necessary for them and they do just fine without it. I have heard stories of clowns hosting powerheads. There is only a 50/50 chance they will in fact host the anenome, and most people eish they wouldnt because thats literally all they do pretty much. That being said, i would definatly not add 2 clowns no matter the species. Clowns are 100% territorial and thats not enough for them to get through their mating routines (if they do mate). I would only do one clown, but thatd be pushing it. It would have to be an occerillis clown. And yes some cleaner shrimp would look great, along eith some snails and hermits to keep your tank looking tidy. I am currrently thinking about also converting a 10g fresh to salt. For additional info, search my thread 10g saltwater. :) my thumbs hurt...
 
Gboy66 said:
Oh i didnt know you were new...WELCOME!! :):)

Im not sure what your current filter is, but a penguin would do fine for a small 10g. But some things you might want to know about anenomes, they're pretty tough. They should be only added to a tank after a year of it being established. Also, clowns wont always host (sit in 24/7) an anenome. It isnt necessary for them and they do just fine without it. I have heard stories of clowns hosting powerheads. There is only a 50/50 chance they will in fact host the anenome, and most people eish they wouldnt because thats literally all they do pretty much. That being said, i would definatly not add 2 clowns no matter the species. Clowns are 100% territorial and thats not enough for them to get through their mating routines (if they do mate). I would only do one clown, but thatd be pushing it. It would have to be an occerillis clown. And yes some cleaner shrimp would look great, along eith some snails and hermits to keep your tank looking tidy. I am currrently thinking about also converting a 10g fresh to salt. For additional info, search my thread 10g saltwater. :) my thumbs hurt...

Thanks for the welcome :) I am indeed new to saltwater.

I'm currently using a tetra whisper on my fw tank, but I would instead use the penguin filter.

Would any of the bacteria in my current filter help at all in cycling a sw tank?

Seems like anemones are not a good choice lol! I'll stay away from them.

Since I wont have plants... What lighting could I use? I currently have 2 23w fluorescent bulbs.

Could you also help me with how much salt should I add and what levels should the tank be kept in?
 
Gboy66 said:
I am currrently thinking about also converting a 10g fresh to salt. For additional info, search my thread 10g saltwater. :) my thumbs hurt...

I will definitely check out your thread!
 
:welcome: to AA! :)

I am fresh, do not quote me on any of this, but this is what I've heard.

aqua7 said:
Thanks for the welcome :) I am indeed new to saltwater.

I'm currently using a tetra whisper on my fw tank, but I would instead use the penguin filter.

Would any of the bacteria in my current filter help at all in cycling a sw tank?

Seems like anemones are not a good choice lol! I'll stay away from them.

Since I wont have plants... What lighting could I use? I currently have 2 23w fluorescent bulbs.

Could you also help me with how much salt should I add and what levels should the tank be kept in?

Nope. Freshwater beneficial bacteria can't live in saltwater.

Nope, anemones are pretty hard to keep.

I think that's okay for corals, but I'm not sure. If its FOWLR then it's fine.

I was also browsing through your equipment list. Do you have a power head included?
 
Thanks for the welcome :) I am indeed new to saltwater.

I'm currently using a tetra whisper on my fw tank, but I would instead use the penguin filter.

Would any of the bacteria in my current filter help at all in cycling a sw tank?

Seems like anemones are not a good choice lol! I'll stay away from them.

Since I wont have plants... What lighting could I use? I currently have 2 23w fluorescent bulbs.

Could you also help me with how much salt should I add and what levels should the tank be kept in?

Don't use the bacteria from your freshwater tank for your saltwater. It'll die. Anemones get very large. The one type you could do are Mini anemones -but clownfish don't host those; Sexy shrimp do :)

I think you're lighting will be good for now - if the tank stays a fish only with live rock (FOWLR). As far as salt mixtures - I use Instant Ocean salt mix and I put 1/2 cup per gallon of water. Also, I do not have a RO/DI unit...I use tap water with de-chlorinator. I know it's not ideal, but Colorado water is pretty good and I haven't had any problems with my tank. And I use distilled water to top off my tanks.

Not sure what you mean by levels...
ammonia = 0
pH = 8.0-8.2 ideally
nitrite = 0
nitrate = less than 10 ideally
specific gravity = 1.023-1.025 (especially if you want shrimp)
temp = 79 degrees F (although mine are at 80 :) )

I would agree that 10g is alittle to small for clowns. You should look at firefish and gobies. You could get one clown - but it should be an ocellaris type.
 
bruinsbro1997 said:
I agree. After PMing with a member on here, I know that one clown is probably all you can keep in a ten gallon, with perhaps one other fish.

Ya. Id say an occerellis, watchman goby, and a cleaner shrimp
 
Thank you guys! You've all been very helpful...

How do I check the salinity and gravity levels?

After what you all told me I'll only be adding one clownfish.

Could I use bottled water in the tank?
 
aqua7 said:
Thank you guys! You've all been very helpful...

How do I check the salinity and gravity levels?

After what you all told me I'll only be adding one clownfish.

Could I use bottled water in the tank?

You use a refrotractor to check salinity and yes one clown is a good idea. I think you could ise bottles spring water, but that would be expensive
 
Gboy means a refractometer :) It will give a more accurate reading of salinity than the hydrometer. It is more pricey so if you can't afford that right now, use a hydrometer. Salinity and specific gravity are the same thing. You want to shoot for about 1.024 to allow for a slow rise due to evaporation. There are instructions on the salt bags as to how to guestimate levels. No matter the instructions, it is still sort of an add and check method. The salt has to be well mixed before you test the salinity level. Use a powerhead in the bucket to keep the water moving to help with mixing. Unless it is an emergency you shouldn't mix saltwater and use it the same day..let it sit with just water movement for at least 24 hrs and then retest to make sure the level hasn't changed before adding to the tank.

As for any sponges you may have used in your freshwater, you can use them in the SW tank but make sure you boil them first. The bacteria for FW won't live in SW and you don't want to take the slightest chance of any cross contamination. My recommendation would be to replace any sponges with new ones but at the very least, put the sponge in water, bring it to a boil and "cook" it for about 10 mins. Then, turn off the heat and let it cool naturally. You also want to do a good wash of your other FW equipment, heater and such. When I converted my 75 gallon from fresh to salt, I put the equipment, powerheads, filters, heater, in a 5 gallon bucket with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water and let it sit for 24 hours. I then took everything out and rinsed well.

Bottled water can be used but you want to use distilled. The problem with that is it gets very expensive.
 
tlkng1 said:
Gboy means a refractometer :) It will give a more accurate reading of salinity than a a hydrometer. It is more pricey so if you can't afford that right now, use a hydrometer. Salinity and specific gravity are the same thing. You want to shoot for about 1.024 to allow for a slow rise due to evaporation. There are instructions on the salt bags as to how to guestimate levels. No matter the instructions, it is still sort of an add and check method. The salt has to be well mixed before you test the salinity level. Use a powerhead in the bucket to keep the water moving to help with mixing. Unless it is an emergency you shouldn't mix saltwater and use it the same day..let it sit with just water movement for at least 24 hrs and then retest to make sure the level hasn't changed before adding to the tank.

As for any sponges you may have used inyur freshwater, you can use them in the SW tank but make sure you boil them first. THe bacteria for FW wn't live in SW and youo don't want to take the slightest chance of any cross contamination. My recommendation would be to replace any sponges with new ones but at the very least, put the sponge in water, bring it to a boil and "cook" it for about 15 mins. Then, turn off the heat and let it cool naturally.

Bottled water can be used but you want to use distilled. The problem with that is it gets very expensive.


Thanks for the salinity (gravity) and the hydrometer, refractometer clarification and all the mixing process.

I'll be boiling my sponges plus I have more unused sponges. I didn't know I had to boil the ones I used in fw...
 
The boiling is only to make sure all the bacteria is actually dead and it also takes care of anything else that might be inside the sponge you can't see...food, dirt, algae etc. You could probably do the same thing by rinsing it in chlorinated water and letting it dry out fully for a few days but essentially, you want to start out your SW with fully clean equipment.
 
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