265 gallon build

[Flaxon-Waxon]

View attachment 276229
So I need some help with my sump design. My initial idea was just to copy of the sump for my 90 and it looks good but I'm not sure if it's the best design I have seen so many ideas I'm not sure what to do. I have two concerns I have to leave room for overflow which could be 10-15 gallons of my math is right. The other is the pump I have says 36.5 gpm so I don't know if this design can handle that flow. Any ideas?


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I would make sure your math is right for starters...

http://diyfishkeepers.com/SumpSizeCalculator.htm

And I would imagine as long as the pump can handle what the overflow will drain, then the design should be fine.

 

[mr_X]

How did you come to the figure of 10-15 gallons? This number would depend entirely on how you have the plumbing set up. You can make it so very little water fills the sump in the event of an outage. i think the design is fine. I would make the partitions 10" or so, so that your skimmer will be in the adequate water height. Otheriwise, it looks good, except for those filter sock holders- Can you get the correctly sized skimmer in the area that's left, or will you put the skimmer in compartment 2?

 

[Talon]

I figured an inch of drop is 12 gallons of water so that's what I figured I should make room for. I was going to put the skimmer in the second compartment. The pump is external so I will have the third open too but don't know if that would be able to be used for anything.


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[coralbandit]

I like the sump!
PS in section 2 .
I can't say how much syphons or whatever but most at this point know how to set their sumps?
The overflow is the controller IMO and I will argue this!
Many talk pumps and the filter/sump will never pass / process more then pump pushes but the overflow has to get it to the pump!
I run a reef octopus 300b on my 29g!
It is a little over kill but the overflow should always handle more(way more IMO) then the pump the can push.
Loose those ball valves on the intakes before it is too much trouble !
You should NEVER need to slow he intake IMO.

 

[Talon]

I was a plumber for a few years and IMO you can never have to many valves you can just leave them open and they don't effect anything but if needed you can isolate anything. Also I can't adjust my return pump speed so I don't know how else to control flow? Maybe I'm missing something I'm not an expert and this is my biggest tank but I have set up three tanks so far. This set up worked for my others just wondering if it will hold out for one this size. Now is the time to change anything though so I am happy for any input thanks.


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[coralbandit]

You need to control pump over the intake.
Ball valves on the return line not the intake.
This re enforces the overflow being #1.
If it doesn't get to the pump it won't mess with overflow.
Simple explanation? what works? 3000 gph input and 4000gph out put ( overflow box not maxed out)
OR 4000 gph input with 3000 GPH output(overflow failure)?
No matter what pump or flow of it(being the pump) the "overflow box" has to be able to handle "all of it".
The ball valves can be left open (forever) on the intake(which will never see more water then the pump sends it), but they ,or one is better placed in the return position IMO.
I run digitally controlled pumps on almost all my sumps now(almost all$$).

 

[Talon]

Yea I have two one inch bulkheads in each overflow but am only using one each so if I need to increase the over flow rate I can but I also put a valve on the return line too. Can I buy a controller for the pump I have or do I need a new pump if I want to do that? I just want to Mir sure I'm ready for anything


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[coralbandit]

It is not best to try to electronically control average pumps.
They need full current to run proper as I understand.
I run Jeboa DC pumps now along with my remaining danner mag pumps.
I am all in on DC!
Instead of"burning up" my pump (and electricity) I can turn the power down(haven't yet!) and save electricity!
Even if I don't turn power down the dc pumps use LESS elec and conduct MUCH less heat to tank.

Jebao DC Series Submersible Return Pump w Controller DC3000 6000 9000 12000 Reef | eBay
^^FOR EXAMPLE^^
I'll wager you never slow the flow from your overflow boxes!

 

[mr_X]

I wouldn't restrict drains either. Inside the tank, at the lowest return, the display will drain to this point unless there is either a siphon break, or a check valve to stop it. From your photos, I am willing to bet you are going to have around 100 gallons drain out when the power goes out unless you address the returns. I see an old check valve on the used pump- I'd probably get a new one. They do sell check valves you can open and clean if necessary. They are a few bucks more, but worth it IMO.

 

[Talon]

I put a check valve in the return it's just hard to see. It has a spring in it to close the valve maybe this was a poor choice? I can change it out but I never saw anything else in plastic the other ones are brass valves and I thought that would be a real bad idea with salt water? Could u help me with a link to a better valve if the one I have is no good?


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[mr_X]

The Georg Fisher type was the one I mentioned...but there are a few options here-
Valves - Bulk Reef Supply

 

[Talon]

So I ordered a new valve and will change it when it gets here. I want to be ready for the sand and rock that is coming this week. I wanted to make sure the tank was exactly where I wanted it and level. Well somehow it is a little low on the back side of the tank. I swear I checked it but it's about 1/8 low in the back. Perfect side to side though. It's on a tile floor in my basement so I know the floor isn't going to move. Should I try and shim the stand? Just worried with the weight it might crush shims and would be worse then leaving it slightly out of level.


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[coralbandit]

1/8 IMO is fine front to back.
I also IMO would want a tank to lean towards the wall(usually back side) if it was to lean or I didn't trust the floor.
It isn't going anywhere on your basement floor!

 

[54seaweed]

the water level on the back wall is low , that means you have a frontward lean , if it seems to be shaky and if you have the means to jack up the front to shim it , if it don't seem to be shaky and you think it will be ok just live with it , my 40g had a lean to one side , at first I left it but after over filling a few times because of the lean I used a floor jack lifted that side and shimmed it , just be sure your jacking up on a good pressure point or you could risk blowing out the tank

 

[Talon]

So I'm tarting to fill the tank 60 gallons so far only 200 to go. Just wondering my sand and rock should be coming this week so I wanted enough water to keep the live sand healthy so I started filling it over the weekend. I can only make about 30 gallons of saltwater a day though so it's taking a while. Do You think a power head and a old 4' t5ho 2 bulb light will be enough to keep the sand health while I continue to fill the tank, or should I fill it all the way and just add the sand and rock then? I was going to get new bulbs for the light if it would help. Just hasn't decided on new lighting yet and it's going to be an expensive decision so I want to take my time and make the right one. Also question two what do I need for filtration while the tank is cycling or do I not need any? My last and I used all live rock and live sand and it never really cycled so this is new to me using the base rock.


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[Sniperhank]

Fill everything up with the sand and rock. Remember that these two things will cause displacement in the system so don't fill the tank up full with water!
A powerhead and heater is all you will need besides your ammonia source to keep the sand/rock where you need it to. There is no need to have any light on during a cycle.
There isn't any need to run any filtration during the cycle unless you have a skimmer that needs to be broken in some...but doing that in a bucket with vinegar would be better.

 

[Talon]

I feel like a kid on Christmas Day. Got my rock and heater today and a power head just to get things moving till I can get the tank filled and start my main pump. My sand won't be here till tomorrow though but I have plenty to do till then. First question the heater is a 1000 watt heater but has no brackets to mount it to anything just rubber ends and a titanium body and a temp controller. I guess I can just lay it on my tank and put the probe in there till it's filled? Then should it go in the return part of the sump or in the center with the protein skimmer (which I still haven't decided on one)? Does it matter as long as there is flow it's ok right?


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[mr_X]

I would definitely have the heater in the sump. I like to use multiple smaller heaters instead of one large one- My reasoning is that if one fails, it won't wipe out the tank before you notice the issue. A single, properly sized heater could really overheat the water if it got stuck on (which has been known to happen on rare occasion). If so, I place my heaters at different points in the system.

 

[Talon]

Here is the latest picture of the tank. Got the sand and base rock in and almost have it filled. So I have a few questions here. Once I get it topped off and the main pump running I was going to add live rock to seed the rest. Do I need a protein skimmer running during this time of seeding the base rock, or any other filtration or dosing? Also does anyone have a suggestion for what type-size protein skimmer to buy?


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[Sniperhank]

While cycling, you don't need to run any type of filtration besides filter socks to catch any chunks. You don't even need the live rock to seed, just get a cocktail shrimp and cycle the tank.
When it comes to skimmers, people really like reef octopus skimmers. I have an Eshopps on my 55 reef that I like.