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Old 08-08-2015, 04:30 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Talon View Post
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So I need some help with my sump design. My initial idea was just to copy of the sump for my 90 and it looks good but I'm not sure if it's the best design I have seen so many ideas I'm not sure what to do. I have two concerns I have to leave room for overflow which could be 10-15 gallons of my math is right. The other is the pump I have says 36.5 gpm so I don't know if this design can handle that flow. Any ideas?


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I would make sure your math is right for starters...

http://diyfishkeepers.com/SumpSizeCalculator.htm

And I would imagine as long as the pump can handle what the overflow will drain, then the design should be fine.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:01 PM   #22
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How did you come to the figure of 10-15 gallons? This number would depend entirely on how you have the plumbing set up. You can make it so very little water fills the sump in the event of an outage. i think the design is fine. I would make the partitions 10" or so, so that your skimmer will be in the adequate water height. Otheriwise, it looks good, except for those filter sock holders- Can you get the correctly sized skimmer in the area that's left, or will you put the skimmer in compartment 2?
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:08 PM   #23
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I figured an inch of drop is 12 gallons of water so that's what I figured I should make room for. I was going to put the skimmer in the second compartment. The pump is external so I will have the third open too but don't know if that would be able to be used for anything. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-08-2015, 09:19 PM   #24
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I like the sump!
PS in section 2 .
I can't say how much syphons or whatever but most at this point know how to set their sumps?
The overflow is the controller IMO and I will argue this!
Many talk pumps and the filter/sump will never pass / process more then pump pushes but the overflow has to get it to the pump!
I run a reef octopus 300b on my 29g!
It is a little over kill but the overflow should always handle more(way more IMO) then the pump the can push.
Loose those ball valves on the intakes before it is too much trouble !
You should NEVER need to slow he intake IMO.
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Old 08-08-2015, 09:36 PM   #25
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265 gallon build

I was a plumber for a few years and IMO you can never have to many valves you can just leave them open and they don't effect anything but if needed you can isolate anything. Also I can't adjust my return pump speed so I don't know how else to control flow? Maybe I'm missing something I'm not an expert and this is my biggest tank but I have set up three tanks so far. This set up worked for my others just wondering if it will hold out for one this size. Now is the time to change anything though so I am happy for any input thanks.


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Old 08-08-2015, 10:08 PM   #26
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You need to control pump over the intake.
Ball valves on the return line not the intake.
This re enforces the overflow being #1.
If it doesn't get to the pump it won't mess with overflow.
Simple explanation? what works? 3000 gph input and 4000gph out put ( overflow box not maxed out)
OR 4000 gph input with 3000 GPH output(overflow failure)?
No matter what pump or flow of it(being the pump) the "overflow box" has to be able to handle "all of it".
The ball valves can be left open (forever) on the intake(which will never see more water then the pump sends it), but they ,or one is better placed in the return position IMO.
I run digitally controlled pumps on almost all my sumps now(almost all$$).
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:13 PM   #27
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Yea I have two one inch bulkheads in each overflow but am only using one each so if I need to increase the over flow rate I can but I also put a valve on the return line too. Can I buy a controller for the pump I have or do I need a new pump if I want to do that? I just want to Mir sure I'm ready for anything


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Old 08-08-2015, 10:43 PM   #28
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It is not best to try to electronically control average pumps.
They need full current to run proper as I understand.
I run Jeboa DC pumps now along with my remaining danner mag pumps.
I am all in on DC!
Instead of"burning up" my pump (and electricity) I can turn the power down(haven't yet!) and save electricity!
Even if I don't turn power down the dc pumps use LESS elec and conduct MUCH less heat to tank.

Jebao DC Series Submersible Return Pump w Controller DC3000 6000 9000 12000 Reef | eBay
^^FOR EXAMPLE^^
I'll wager you never slow the flow from your overflow boxes!
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:26 AM   #29
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I wouldn't restrict drains either. Inside the tank, at the lowest return, the display will drain to this point unless there is either a siphon break, or a check valve to stop it. From your photos, I am willing to bet you are going to have around 100 gallons drain out when the power goes out unless you address the returns. I see an old check valve on the used pump- I'd probably get a new one. They do sell check valves you can open and clean if necessary. They are a few bucks more, but worth it IMO.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:35 AM   #30
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I put a check valve in the return it's just hard to see. It has a spring in it to close the valve maybe this was a poor choice? I can change it out but I never saw anything else in plastic the other ones are brass valves and I thought that would be a real bad idea with salt water? Could u help me with a link to a better valve if the one I have is no good?


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