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Old 02-15-2006, 07:15 PM   #11
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i think more people ad fish before qt'ing for 4 full weeks than are willing to admit it. I think there's a lot of people that worry about their QT tanks killing fish because they're small and harder to keep the water quality stable. So they get nervous after 1-2 weeks of QT and just add the fish to the display tank because they figure the chances of it actually getting ich at this point are less than the chances of it dieing in QT.

At least that's been my experience. I've lost quite a few fish in my 10g QT tank and i almost had a huge problem because i did the same thing you did a while ago. So i guess what i'm saying is don't feel like your the only one making the mistakes.
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Old 02-16-2006, 11:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenn
i think more people ad fish before qt'ing for 4 full weeks than are willing to admit it.
The majority of fish owners I know don’t bother with qt tanks Personally I don’t understand why, especially with sw.

I think it’s mostly because people get lazy with fw tanks and can just dose the whole tank with little consequences.

It can be done also with fo setups in sw but severely limits your invert/coral selections in the future. (If at all depending on the meds you use)

For most people they can set up a qt tank for less then $30 requiring only a 10 gal tank, cheap hob filter, & heater keeping the hob unit on the main in order to maintain bacteria and switching to the qt tank when needed. (Disposing properly of hob filter media once done if copper based meds used)

Hopefully when they keep loosing $30+ fish/inverts/coral they will realize the folly of just adding them to the main.
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Old 02-16-2006, 12:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecwzrd
Quote:
Originally Posted by zenn
i think more people ad fish before qt'ing for 4 full weeks than are willing to admit it.
The majority of fish owners I know don’t bother with qt tanks Personally I don’t understand why, especially with sw.

I think it’s mostly because people get lazy with fw tanks and can just dose the whole tank with little consequences.

It can be done also with fo setups in sw but severely limits your invert/coral selections in the future. (If at all depending on the meds you use)

For most people they can set up a qt tank for less then $30 requiring only a 10 gal tank, cheap hob filter, & heater keeping the hob unit on the main in order to maintain bacteria and switching to the qt tank when needed. (Disposing properly of hob filter media once done if copper based meds used)

Hopefully when they keep loosing $30+ fish/inverts/coral they will realize the folly of just adding them to the main.
I agree with most of what you said. Although I think serious SW hobbyist...the ones preaching QT QT QT, often overlook the fact that putting a 50 dollar fish in a 10gallon tank for a month is risky. And lots of times the fish doesn't make it. Of course we know that it's better to loose the fish in QT than to risk infecting the entire display tank with something. I guess what i'm saying is it's hard to learn how to QT properly. For me, it's an ongoing troublespot that i just haven't quite perfected yet.
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Old 02-16-2006, 03:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenn
often overlook the fact that putting a 50 dollar fish in a 10gallon tank for a month is risky.
Most people with 55 gal or fewer gal tanks wouldn’t put a fish much larger then 4” into it. IMO a 10 gal is sufficiently large enough to house the fish for the short 4-6 week time period.

The key is to always have a cycled filtration unit ready to go so you don’t have any nh3/no2 issues. Personally I use a HOB bio wheel hooked up to the main at all times and just transfer it over to the qt tank when purchasing new fish. I have never had any issues with maintaining water quality by doing this and I always keep 2 extra bio wheels (They are cheap) in case I trash the other cycled one due to using meds on the qt tank. (I use 90 lbs of lr for main bio filtration) Keeping a sponge filter in the sump or main and transferring to the qt tank works as well.

As a general rule a qt tank that is 20% the size of the main is usually large enough and if you properly qt all your inhabitants before putting in the main then your main should always be relatively disease free since most diseases have to come from a sick fish.

Of course having a larger 29 gal tank would be ideal (especially for housing multiple fish) and personally I use a 20 gal long tank but I was just stating the basic setup for “most people” and not the serious aquarist.
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tecwzrd
Quote:
Originally Posted by zenn
often overlook the fact that putting a 50 dollar fish in a 10gallon tank for a month is risky.
Most people with 55 gal or fewer gal tanks wouldn’t put a fish much larger then 4” into it. IMO a 10 gal is sufficiently large enough to house the fish for the short 4-6 week time period.

The key is to always have a cycled filtration unit ready to go so you don’t have any nh3/no2 issues. Personally I use a HOB bio wheel hooked up to the main at all times and just transfer it over to the qt tank when purchasing new fish. I have never had any issues with maintaining water quality by doing this and I always keep 2 extra bio wheels (They are cheap) in case I trash the other cycled one due to using meds on the qt tank. (I use 90 lbs of lr for main bio filtration) Keeping a sponge filter in the sump or main and transferring to the qt tank works as well.

As a general rule a qt tank that is 20% the size of the main is usually large enough and if you properly qt all your inhabitants before putting in the main then your main should always be relatively disease free since most diseases have to come from a sick fish.

Of course having a larger 29 gal tank would be ideal (especially for housing multiple fish) and personally I use a 20 gal long tank but I was just stating the basic setup for “most people” and not the serious aquarist.
right. THat's what i was stating as well. Most starting reef aquarist go with the 10g setup for a QT because it's what's recommened. I just have a bad track record with this method. And my point is that people get frustrated with losing fish in the QT so they skip right to adding them to the main. Not sure but it seems to me like there's probably more peopel doing exactly that than are willing to admit it. With that said, QT is very important and i do it every time now.
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Old 02-16-2006, 09:17 PM   #16
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FWIW I have 30 gal QT's and at one time I also had a 100 gal QT. They are still a pain.
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Old 02-17-2006, 04:33 PM   #17
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Being the "preacher" with the QT,QT,QT mantra, I'm not that foolhardy to have a 10 gallon QT. Mine is a 55 with 30+ gallons of water in it.

The 1st time I had to hypo, I had 2 Clowns and YT in there for 7 weeks. Did a 5 gallon PWC every week, and the fish pulled thru fine.

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Old 02-26-2006, 02:23 AM   #18
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I have a 10-gallon QT, with a Coral Beauty Angel in it for the last 4 weeks that seems to be doing very well so far. I am not scared of losing him, my irritation with it is more about the impossible time I have with algae in 10-gallon aquariums!!!
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Old 02-26-2006, 02:15 PM   #19
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I had a 1- gal QT for new fish but got Ich anyway, probably form not QTing an invert or coral. I then ran out and got a 30 gal QT with HOB filter, etc. I now use that to make up my PWC batches. I keep a filter pad and biowheel in the sump of the main just in case I need them again.
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