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Old 06-17-2006, 10:21 PM   #11
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Thanks for the advice. I just went out and bought a DI unit. I was gonna spring for the R/O unit but it was a little much. Is the DI unit just as good, will it help or not as much? Also, I just tested my phosphate and it was currently sitting at .5, is that bad? thanks for any responses.............
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Old 06-17-2006, 10:24 PM   #12
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The chemicals used are mostly antibiotics. When you start dosing them, you will build a resistant strain of bacteria. The solution to cyan is to be diligent. Water changes and siphoning off the cyano daily, cessation of feeding, increasing water flow and reduce lighting times, all done simultaneously will help you get control of the problem. Chemicals never need to be used.

Squado, any phosphate reading at all is too much. Cyano feeds off of it.
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Old 06-17-2006, 10:31 PM   #13
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abnmojo,
Lighting is also a contributor to feed cyano. I don't know what lights you run but as a bulb ages, the spectrum changes and this will encourage algae.

Squado,
A phosphate of .5 is probably alot of your issues. If your test kit says .5 figure there is a higher amount of organic phosphates in your water.
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Old 06-17-2006, 11:48 PM   #14
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I got tired of my cyano so I bought a product called red slime removal and within two days it was completly gone and as of a week later there is still no cyano. I'm not sure if anyone else has used this product but it worked well for me and other people I know. HTH
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Old 06-18-2006, 09:28 AM   #15
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The ONLY way to fight it is to remove the fuel source and starve it out. That would be with RO/DI water changes.
Nothing better can be said !!!
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Old 06-18-2006, 09:43 AM   #16
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I agree. Adding inverts, fish or chemicals to treat algae is mearly a band-aid. You need to identify and correct the source to ensure it will not return. I have yet hear of any animal that will make short work or cyno or hair algae. Using high quality water, feeding less and paying attention to photo-period are your best bet.
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Old 06-18-2006, 11:26 AM   #17
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My LFS told me to buy "Red Slime Remover" yesterday when i told him im having cyano. I just pretended i forgot about it when i checked out

IMO, don't trust chemicals to cure problems in my tank, some of them won't work like "kick ich", "ich attack", etc. and some might work but will have side effects like adding unncessary chemicals into ur tank
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Old 06-18-2006, 12:49 PM   #18
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Cyano is amazing stuff. I would encourage anyone who doubts the ability of this stuff to do some research of it yourself. Chemicals will help, but it's temporary at best. You will find this is true in time.
Also, these chemicals are antibiotics. What do they do? They are used to kill bacteria. I could be way off here but wouldn't that include your biological filtration? It has to be impacting it in some way and not for the good. Choose to go that route if you want a quick fix but if you want a permanent fix, rid your tank of the source. Do your water changes, shorten your photoperiod, lessen feedings, rinse frozen food in RO before feeding, feed better quality food, syphon as much as possible of it from the rocks and sand during water changes, change you light bulbs every 9-12 months and watch your phosphate and nitrates.
We don't even know that the OP has cyano but even if it's just normal algae, these things will help. Good luck Squado.
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Old 06-18-2006, 02:57 PM   #19
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change you light bulbs every 9-12 months
Mmm i might be wrong but don't u need to change ur bulbs at least every 6 months?
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Old 06-18-2006, 02:58 PM   #20
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It depends on type and use. Under regular conditions, CF bulbs should be changed every 9-10 months. MH can go about a year.
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