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Old 06-18-2006, 08:09 PM   #21
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Squado,

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=TL4311

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=TL4111

This will help with po4 levels. I run this 24 x 7 in my 75g as insurance as do a lot of folks with big tanks who do not want to leave anything to chance. .5 ppm po4 is high and would explain your algea. You've made good progress in purchasing the RO/DI unit however once hair algea takes root, its a manual process most of the time to get rid of it. Keep up the changes and measure the po4 in the water you are producing to make sure your not just adding to the problem with every wc. Slack off on feedings if you can and scape off hair algea and toss it as you go. Depending on how far out of hands its gotten it may be weeks - months to get it under control.

Peace.
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Old 06-19-2006, 10:42 AM   #22
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I have to agree with the rest about getting inverts that might eat the algae. I have two urchins and a bunch of snails that do eat it and I can see them eating trails through it. BUT, the cyano grows faster than they can eat it. I have reduced feedings to every three days, and this weekend reduced my lighting from 10 to 8 hours. I also have been using a turkey baster to suck it up and those methods seem to be working, so far.
I used to buffer my tank, but through reading, there is generally a chemical free way. Think of your tank as an extension of the ocean. The key to the hobby, IMO, is keep my tank as natrual as possible.
For example, I was having a problem with my pH. I removed my canopy and upgraded my lights to over the tank lights and adjusted one of my PHs. My pH rose and is now stable.
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Old 06-19-2006, 02:55 PM   #23
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As far as using the Di unit, i measured the water after using it and there was still phosphate in the water, made a return and just bought petcos "natural ocean water". The phosphates have gone down (although still present), but the nitrates are climbing a little high than .10. The water still seems pretty cloudy and every time I siphon out the brown algase it is back within hours it seems like. For now I am going to stick with the remaining ocean water for the next week (2 water changes) and then conitune to use store bought R/O wate, as well as less lighting and feeding. Thanks so much for the replies and the help........
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:33 PM   #24
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Do you have any powerheads moving your water around or is the hob filter and skimmer the only water movement in the tank? I didn't see any other pumps listed in your info, unless I overlooked it. Some strategically places powerheads may help. With just the hob's, there are going to be alot of dead spots on the bottom of your tank. A couple (2) powerheads in the bottom to keep movement down there will help. Good luck.
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:08 PM   #25
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Went out today and bought the phos-reactor 150. I just hooked it up and its running fine. How long do you guys think it will take to see some results. By the way, there are two powerheads on the top of the water surface and my third powerhead is now for the phos-reactor. Do you think that the phos-reactor will be enough, or are powerheads on the bottom of the tank a neccesity? thanks so much for all your guys help...
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:52 PM   #26
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With the hob filter, skimmer and now phosban reactor, sounds like your getting a good bit of movement up top. I'd move the powerheads to toward the bottom. JMO though, others may offer different ideas.
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Old 06-20-2006, 10:19 AM   #27
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I moved my PH around and it seems to be keeping the bloom down. I only have my canister output moving the surface of the water. I also reduced my lighting from 10 to 8 hours. I am really thinking this was due to my new lights. It just seems the bloom started soon after the new light were installed.
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