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Old 02-28-2011, 12:17 PM   #11
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Hello again, I found a x2 24w t5 arcadia controller and fitted the bulbs to my hood, all 4 bulbs only just fit in my hood so panics over, I hope this will help my corals, although will the algae grow twice as quick?

Just about to order two new bulbs. I have 2 Marian blue and 2 white bulbs ( from manufacture) that came with my old lighting unit, I'm using them ATM, i need to replace them with marian bulbs, I know people mix different types, any advice on how to mix the colours.

My GSP still won't open, if any thing it's getting worse, I have the algae problem on my sand but it's not on my glass and very little on my rook but algae is starting to grow on a few arms of my GSP could that be why it's not opening, maybe put more flow over it? Iv moved it 3 times in the last 4 weeks so I'm thinking just leave it be. Any one had this happen to their GSP,
Plus Iv added a sand shifting goby, that might help with the algae on my sand

Cheers guys
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:02 PM   #12
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a little more flow would not hurt it.
i would try to get some high end lamps for those fixtures. ATI blue plus and ATI aquablue special are 2 favorites of mine.
Buy Drygoods And Aquarium Supplies - T5 24W Bulbs Online | Vivid Aquariums
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:47 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by mr_X
well, you can DIY lighting. i am getting from your post that you don't have any canopy, just a florescent fixture sitting on the glass top. you could build a wooden canopy and attach any lighting to the inside. this would stop any stray light from getting out of the tank. do they make a canopy for this tank?

they do sell retrofit kits for this purpose. i don't know what manufacturers are in your neck of the woods, so i suppose you'll have to do an internet search for something in a reasonable shipping area, or perhaps go to an electrical supply house and buy what you need there.
a high output ballast, end caps, stand offs, reflectors, wire, and lamps will all have to be purchased. the lamps will have to be purchased from an aquarium related store. they don't carry the right color temp at standard electric supply stores.
This is eaxactly what I have done... he has a good point... from you pics and sound of it mine and your tank are the same demensions. Which is 46g bowfront tank... I first had a PC 96w 4 bulb fixture 36" and fits perfect... now in this DIY conopy with two 175w metal hilides. (Post a pic in a few minutes)
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Old 03-10-2011, 05:08 AM   #14
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Sorry so late with the pictures but here is my DIY canopy with lighting I have now put the current 4x96 w PC fixture with two 175w metal halides inside
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:12 AM   #15
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I really like your DIY lighting, they look great!

I realize that this thread is two months old, but I wanted to leave a couple of remarks.

First there was the attitude expressed that if you can not do weekly water changes then you are in the wrong hobby. I must have been in the wrong hobby all of these years because I very rarely do water changes, and when I do it is more to correct what I believe to be problems with ORP than anything else. There are many ways to keep water, not only is it the environmentally responsible solution, it saves a ton of money.

The dilution strategy that seems so common today to me is a holdover from the 80's undergravel filters. It just is not needed. I have not done more than three partial water changes this year 2wice to correct orp (in my opinion), once because I had an a very large acro die from nudis. There is no reason that a person with your skills could not use a raceway turf scrubber and sulfer denitrator and very rarely do a water change again.

As to your algae bloom, they happen. I have a 20 long that has been up for about a year, and it still gets some algae bloom (probably from silica in the live rock if i had to guess) or it could be that i feed the tank flakes and flakes usually have a higher amount of silica then pellets. It honestly does not bother me, in another year the silica will be burned out if it is in the rock.
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