Algae

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Saltwaterman said:
No I should probably get one of those thx

eBay has the Hanna tds digital test which works good it's like 30 bucks also you can get one that goes into the plumbing of the ro unit so the water runs through it and reads the result on a LCD screen
 
Algae growth consuming "all" of the Nitrates so that a test reads 0 would cause the algae growth to halt. Seems Phosphates are most likely the culprit here. Salifert makes a good phosphate test, and it's worth the 8-10 bucks.
Step 1: Fine out what your phosphate levels are.
Step 2: lower the levels via water changes (good opportunity to physically remove algae)
Step 3: Reduce nutrient load in the system either by reducing feedings or paring down your livestock.
Alternate Step 3: Increase nutrient capacity with a sump/refugium. Add macro algae for nutrient export.
 
Saltwaterman, it looks as though you have only posted your nitrIte readings, but I don't see the nitrAte readings from reading the thread. (I'll apologize now if I missed it.) As stated previously you ought to check both nitrAtes and phosphates when you're facing a nuisance algae outbreak. (NitrItes and ammonia should both be zero all the time in a cycled tank.) You want to target less than 5ppm for nitrAtes and 0 for phosphates. If your filters on your RO are very old, they might be letting nitrates or phophates through whenever you top up or do water changes. The way to check this is with a TDS meter checking your RO water before you add salt. If it's not zero, that could be your problem. If you are gettgin a zero, water changes and phsical removal do help to starve and remove the stuff.

Also, the algae can bind up either one to show a zero reading on either or both kits. In other words, the algae actually absorbs the stuff before you can read it in the water column. Consider adding a phosphate absorbing media to your filter if possible. (I've used a pad in the past myself. It did make my skimmer NUTS for a day.)
 
Rutrag said:
Also, the algae can bind up either one to show a zero reading on either or both kits. In other words, the algae actually absorbs the stuff before you can read it in the water column. Consider adding a phosphate absorbing media to your filter if possible. (I've used a pad in the past myself. It did make my skimmer NUTS for a day.)

Correct. You always will have a small level of nitrate/phosphate in your tank. It is constantly being produced to some small degree. Algae will bind it before it can even be tested for, so nitrate and phosphate coming back as 0 means nothing.
 
Well thanks for the info rutrag, it seems I have a little work. I've ordered the TDS meter and hopefully it'll be in soon. I've recently cleaned my XP3 Canister Filter and my Emperor 240 filter, and I noticed little bugs (and I mean small) swimming around in my xp3. Is it safe for those to be their? Could they be during in the filter and releasing ammonia and other bad stuff as it cycles through the filter? I'm gunna post photos up of my tank and show you what I have.
 
The little bugs are copepods, they eat decaying matter such as in a canister. They will not hurt anything.
 
Algae photos
 

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The pics you showed look like both hair algae and Cyanobacteria to me. I advise physical removal by siphoning during water changes. This is easy for the cyano, but you'll need to pull up the hair algae to get it out. I also saw you were using a canister filter which does a good job of trapping waste. Unfortunately, the waste is still in your water until you clean the canister. What is your regimen for filter maintenance?
 
Icic well I'm using the XP3 canister filter and I'll suppose I'll have to clean it again. How often do I have to clean it? I also have a Emperor 240 too but I clean that every two week assuming that will be enough. And do you know how this type of algae started? I ordered a new ballast but I'm from Canada and the want US money before I get it so I'm going to get it soon. So I'm just running on two T5 lights, one blue one white. I'm heading to Winnipeg soon in June so I'll be getting a lot stuff. And any tips on a lawn mower blenny? I might get one of those.
 
Saltwaterman said:
Icic well I'm using the XP3 canister filter and I'll suppose I'll have to clean it again. How often do I have to clean it? I also have a Emperor 240 too but I clean that every two week assuming that will be enough. And do you know how this type of algae started? I ordered a new ballast but I'm from Canada and the want US money before I get it so I'm going to get it soon. So I'm just running on two T5 lights, one blue one white. I'm heading to Winnipeg soon in June so I'll be getting a lot stuff. And any tips on a lawn mower blenny? I might get one of those.

Would live sand help with the algae I the sand? I only have regular sand.
 
Saltwaterman said:
Would live sand help with the algae I the sand? I only have regular sand.

Would live sand help with the algae on the sand? I only have regular sand.
 
Live sand is not going to help with algae. The problem is your filter and your cleaning maintenance. Canisters trap rotting organics, and if your only cleaning every two weeks then your canister is a nitrate factory. Things start to rot in less than a day, when they rot they break down, and break down until nitrates and phosphates become one of the end product. You need to clean way more often. Skimmer does the job without the maintenance.
 
I do have a skimmer but I have regular sand and notice it kinda looks like fanworms are growing all over te sand
 
So whats your canister doing that your skimmer cant? Your canister is doing more harm than good in its current state.

Tube worms wont harm anything and its normal, why is that a problem?
 
Well I lm gunna do I good cleaning in my canister filter and should I keep as much Copepods in my filter? And no I was just wondering what they were?
 
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