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Old 10-07-2005, 06:02 PM   #11
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Not really sure how drastic it might be, but some do have the common misconception that "you can change too much water". I might have noted that the new water be well aerated, at the same temperature as the old water, and mixed overnight with a power head. This would be a much better option than performing several large costly water changes over many days which will drop the level only proportionate to the amount changed. Allow me to elaborate, if you have a phosphate level of 0.3 ppm (considered my most to be the maximum safe level) and you change 40% of the water the first day, it is reduced to 0.12 ppm. Change 40% again and it drops to 0.048 ppm. Another 40% drops it to 0.0192 ppm, and so on and so on and it's probably climbing back up since it's in everything . In contrast, you could remove enough water to house everything, change 100% of the water and effectively drop not only the phosphates, but the nitrates to 0 ppm. Just a lot quicker and cheaper and accomplishes the same goal. Testing for phosphates, IMO, is a waste of money. If you have hair algae, you have high phosphates not to mention that the test kits we use only detect one type of phosphates and the algae may be consuming the phosphates as fast as they are entering the tank making the readings unreliable. Just my O2.

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Old 10-07-2005, 10:14 PM   #12
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My concern was not in reference to the water volume itself. If aged correctly and the parameters are in line with the old tank, there is not alot of problems usually. It relly depends on the inhabitants in the end. More often than not though, that's not the case. Careless errors can easily be made unintentionally. That said, the need should dictate your actions to whatever extent. In this regard, a 100% water change would be extreme because the need is minimal not to mention in order to do such a change, you will end up stressing the fish.

Removing fish from the system unneccessarily is fairly stressful. Sequential water changes done over a period of days may cost a bit more on salt but it does not cause the same amount of stress. Zero nitrates albeit a good goal are not a necessity. PO4 at this point isn't even known and in all likelyhood, bound up organically so it would not have much of a long term effect.

The jist of my point being, the need does not require the action suggested. A different point of view I guess.

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Old 10-08-2005, 05:05 PM   #13
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Im with Fluff, I wish I could go weeks between glass cleanings. I agree with QS and Steve. Only bad things happen fast in this hobby so IMO doing water changes over time instead of one big one is the way to go. It does not sound like your having a huge algae outbreak just normal nuisance algae.
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Old 10-09-2005, 11:46 PM   #14
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I agree - it depends on how much algae there is, but each of us have our own ways of reaching the same goal.

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Old 10-27-2005, 05:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg
Flake and pellet are loaded with phosphates. If you're using flake, I'd switch to a frozen food and rinse it real well with old SW before feeding. Good luck!

KG
Interesting? Why is there more phosphorus in flake than frozen?
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Old 10-29-2005, 07:10 PM   #16
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Also you say that you are not overfeeding. How often are you feeding?
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Old 10-30-2005, 12:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vermonter310
Quote:
Originally Posted by kg
Flake and pellet are loaded with phosphates. If you're using flake, I'd switch to a frozen food and rinse it real well with old SW before feeding. Good luck!

KG
Interesting? Why is there more phosphorus in flake than frozen?
Preservatives mostly as well as organic types added in the form of vitamin substitutes. While the frozen contains more moisture and you get less food (net weights), they are far more nutritous overall and less polluting to a certain degree. It also depends on it's content though, certain frozen foods can be just as bad as dried.

Necessary Nutrition, Foods and Supplements, A Preliminary Investigation

Look at nori in particular... 8O

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Old 11-03-2005, 07:18 PM   #18
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tap water filter or phosphate pad
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