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Old 04-03-2008, 09:47 PM   #11
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The algea is prob. is most like the slimy carpet. Before we started using the reducers there was only a small amount of nitrate and phosphate so we stared with the reducers to get reed of that.

We clean the tank every 2 weeks. a normal cleaning means we vaccume the sand, vaccume the sump, change or rinse off any filter pads, change 5 gallons of water, and wipe off the glass with our tank magnate. And only once a month we change the carbon.

The tank is not near any window, so it is not getting any naturall sun light. The bulbs in the tank are only about 3 months old.
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:58 PM   #12
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Cyanobacteria is what that sounds like.

Vaccuming the sand is not a great idea. You are stiring up stuff when you do that and that could be part of the issue. Excess nutrients are released when you vaccume your sand, that can and will cause algae blooms and cyanobacteria out breaks.

I would do all the other things you are doing keep doing, I would stop messing with the sand and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:25 PM   #13
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I will also add the carbon is only good for about 1-2 weeks, depending on your bioload. After that time, it will leach nasties back into your tank. I haven't run carbon in over a year. I love purigen.
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Old 04-04-2008, 12:37 AM   #14
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Ziggy and roka mention good things. I don't think "light" vaccuming is bad, like just the top layer. But deep "disturbing" vacuuming is bad.

You mention that a "small amount" of nitrate and phosphates were in the tank before you used the removers. A small amount of nitrates is to be expected in a small tank, but the phosphates surprise me since you're using RO/DI water. And it doesn't sound like you're overfeeding, which is the other primary source. Have you checked your source RO/DI water for nitrates and phosphates? Just because it's RO/DI doesn't mean it's guaranteed pure. LFSs have been known to let their membranes or DI resins go too long, and that "pure" water might not be so pure.

Water flow is another thing people blame cyano on. Personally, I think it's a water issue first, and if you have bad flow it just makes it worse. But just to cover everything, what kind of flow do you have? Any additional powerheads in the tank to keep the water moving?

I'm not really seeing any "smoking gun", unless your source water is bad. I'd try to track down where the phosphates are coming from and eliminate that, rather than rely on the phosphate remover. Stepping up your water changes to once every week won't hurt either. When you do the water changes, suck up as much of the cyano as you can with your siphon. It'll come back, but if you're diligent for several weeks you should be able to get the upper hand.
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Old 04-04-2008, 12:47 AM   #15
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I agree with Kurt, water flow doesn't have much effect on getting rid of it. I tried that and it just spread it (same with hair algae). I would look for the source. Cyano seems to eat up phosphates (giving a low or no reading at all) on the test kits.
Have you tested your source water?
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Old 04-04-2008, 01:33 AM   #16
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The source of water is good i use the same water on my 60 gallon SPS tank and also we have 3 powerhead to added water flow. Thanks for the help we will try the weekly water changes.
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Old 04-04-2008, 10:52 AM   #17
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Do you have any type of filter or foam in any equipment? I would replace the carbon or remove it. It's great stuff to polish the water or remove meds, but if you don't need to use it I wouldn't.
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