All fish dead....what now.

[mdaniel2882]

After 2 years of no issues what so ever I just had my first down turn...ick! I lost:
1 Purple Tang
1 Powder Blue Tang
Mated pair of percs
1 potters angel
2 female 1 male lyre tail anthias
1 blonde naso tang
1 tomini tang
1 six line wrasse
1 diamond goby.

I am sure that the ick rode in on my powder blue but he showed no signs when I got him...no signs in quarentine...but I put him in the display and BANG. everyone has ick. he is the only way it could have gotten there. Here is where I need help. I know not to put fish in for atleast 21 days and let the protozoan go through its life cycle. I plan on not getting another fish until the middle of May.

I am asking for any suggestions for UV Sterilizer size and flow rate. I know it must be slow to kill protozoans but what do I need for my 120 and how should I plumb it. My return flows about 700 GPH (measured from the return) should I make a seperate loop for the sterilizer or pipe it in some how. I have about 350-400 to spend.

 

[RYANLAWRENCE]

Oh my goodness that is terrible! I can't help you but I'm sorry for your losses. That has to be hard not to mention a very expensive loss

 

[SteveFishman]

A uv sterilizer would help but not prevent..... I would for sure get one tho... They also help with algae blooms

 

[neilanh]

So sorry for your losses.

The UV in this circumstance is probably a good idea. I don't generally recommend the use of a UV, but agree here that it's a good idea and it seems you've done your research on it.

Most UV units come with a recommended flow rate. While you're correct in that slower flow rates allow for more contact time with the water and therefore higher doses to the nasties in the water, you also have to consider the correct operation of the unit to allow it to not overheat or cause other issues that could damage the hardware. My recommendation would be to use the low end of the recommended range on the unit and let it go for at least 3 weeks, like you mentioned.

The Turbo-Twist units are very good, as the twist of the flow of the water they do allows for more contact time. Obviously, the larger the unit you get the more effect you'll get for the time you use it, but it's a balance of the cost vs. how much you'll actually use it as well.

As for plumbing it in, it would be easiest in the long run to just get a dedicated pump for it. This way you don't have to reconfigure any of your existing plumbing and when you're ready to take it out it's an easy process.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

mdaniel... I'd let the tank go fishless 6-8 weeks to be safe. Never heard 21 days. I can't really say that UV would've helped you in this situation, but I suppose it can't hurt.

 

[melosu58]

I too would let it set for 8 weeks. that should break the fife cycle of the parasite as long as the tank is fishless. I had a UV for 10 yrs and it was OK. I had the turbo twist as mentioned by Neilan. Some of those tangs are definitely ick magnets.

 

[reefcowboy]

I have a 24W coming from a canister that has a flow of 94 gal/hour. I have had fish in the tank for about 6 months and when I fist got a pair of green chromis, a few days later my clown and royal gramma(I only have 4 fish in the tank) showed some ich spots. After reading lots and lots, and coming across all the "perfect Hobbyists" that say quarantining prevents everything, I still went ahead and bought the uv.
I can say that the unit I got(its called BOYU, its a chinese copy of the turbo twist, I spent $170 for the 24W) did make a difference on helping the fish fight back the disease. One thing is for sure: quarantine or not, one day something happens and ick will find its way in. It might not manifest the disease completely, but its there. The UV WILL NOT prevent ick, but it will help you control it and allow your fish to fight it and live with it. My fish do not have any ick signs for months; they are completely fine. I do know ick is in my system. The UV will kill all the ick that is swimming in the water, not allowing it to multiply uncontrollably to a stage that will overwhelm and kill your fishes.
Buy a good unit, with decent wattage for your tank size, reduce the flow to as much as you can in it and leave it to do its work. It doesnt matter if you wait 8, 10, 2 weeks now. Ick will find you if your system lacks something somewhere. For those that say that overkill on UV will "kill" the good bacteria, dont worry about that. I have my tank crowded with corals and they are all open, and my readings are completely perfect.

 

[mdaniel2882]

HOLLY !$#*, My diamond goby is still alive!!!! no sign of ick on him. what should I do. I will not be able to catch him.

I am planning on going with this unit 40 Watt Emperor Aquatics Smart UV "LITE Sterilizer - English and push it at about 100 GPH with this. SIC-103 Premium Aquatics - SIC-103 Aquarium Supplies. The max flow recomended to kill protozoan with this sterlizer is 130 GPH I figure after plumbing the loop for the sterilizer it will be in the ball park. I know that the ick in my sand and on my rocks will always be there but if I can get it out of my water column it will give any affected fish in the future a fighting chance. It was just so sad looking for and removing 1-2 fish daily from the tank.

 

[reefcowboy]

Good! The Emperor Aquatics unit is very good. After you pass over 30 Watts on the uv, you are getting serious about zapping everything. Ive never seen the unit, but I know it might be quite big(which is what you want by having the h2o travel longer in the tube). By doing the 100-130gal/hour flow you are planning, you should have good system in place.
Nice to know you goby was still alive. Make sure you keep him eating, try feeding it live foods, to entice it to keep appetite.
To me, the fact that your goby has no ick and is alive shows that his body is fighting the disease.
Install the system as soon as you can, so you can have your parasites brought down...
That way you might have the parasite, but not the disease...good luck!