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Old 07-23-2004, 02:46 PM   #1
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another sump question

i was really wanting to get rid of canister filter and ad a sump(cant seem to get nitrates below 20ppm)the lfs lady told me that they may overflow and if there was ever a time when i wasnt there to monitor it i should stay with the canister.is this true?tank set up is a 55 with only 4 fish 70lb lr afew corals plenty of small blue leg hermits 2 emerald crabs and about 12 snails.there are many times when im not home for the weekend and dont want to come home to the tank overflowing.
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Old 07-23-2004, 03:26 PM   #2
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If planned right, you dont have to worry about it overflowing. I spent this past week planning mine.
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Old 07-23-2004, 03:29 PM   #3
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if the siphon to the sump stops what keeps the main tank from overflowing?
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnvette
if the siphon to the sump stops what keeps the main tank from overflowing?
Well nothing really. Thats why you need a good quality overflow and you should check it regularly and clean the U tubes should they need cleaned.

Now some folks get real techie and put a float switch on the main tank that should the water level rise above a specific point it cuts power to the sump pump. I dont go to that extent. I have been using overflows for years and not had a flooding incident. The key is to keep them clean. Hang on overflows are not a "set it and forget it" type thing.

HAHAHA. Sorry I had to steal that from the Ronco Rosissorie infomertal.
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:19 PM   #5
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I'm one of the float switch guys...but mine works the other way. If the level of the sump drops unusually low it stops the system. If the sump is low, it may mean that water is leaving the sump and not coming back...bad.

By default the float also works as a reminder if my water top off fails. Without adequate top up, the level of the sump drops fast and triggers the shut off.

So if the system shuts off...I go figure out why.

My wife sleeps better knowing it is there.
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Old 07-24-2004, 03:18 AM   #6
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You can also set your pump above the bottom of the sump so it can only drain down to that point, or build in a baffle that separates the pump from the rest of the fuge. If the siphon breaks the pump can only empty its compartment, not the entire sump. Works great and no reliance on switches.
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Old 07-24-2004, 03:18 AM   #7
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You can also set your pump above the bottom of the sump so it can only drain down to that point, or build in a baffle that separates the pump from the rest of the fuge. If the siphon breaks the pump can only empty its compartment, not the entire sump. Works great and no reliance on switches. Just make sure to use a mag drive that can run dry without damage.
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Old 07-27-2004, 12:47 AM   #8
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Yes setting your sump pump up to a certain level also works, but then you risk burning out the pump in the event that it runs dry.

It is probably still better than a flood, anyway.
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Old 07-27-2004, 03:34 PM   #9
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thanks for all the advice,i think i'll give it a try.i like the baffle or switch idea.can anyone reccomend a good overflow and pump set up?
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Old 07-27-2004, 03:51 PM   #10
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Heres a pic of the sump i just built. The divider is behind the middle. If the overflow ever quits, the sump will no overflow the tank. If the return pump ever quits, the sump can hold the overflow till the siphon breaks, perfect. And i made it out of a 15 gal tank, it sits in a stand next to my main stand the tank is on.
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55g Reef
100 lbs. LR
70 lbs. LS
48" Aqualight Pro
Gen X Mak4 Closed Loop
LPS, SPS, whatever else.....
------------------------
40g Tru-Vu
40 lbs Tonga
40 lbs Sand
T-5 Retro-2x39
SEIO 620
Frags, Fish, Mantis, Whatever
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