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Old 09-23-2006, 07:23 PM   #1
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Any comments on BioSlab/Cell-pore products?

I've been seeing "Bioslab" products lately, the link below is their full wet-dry filter, which claims complete nitrification, using cell-pore media in a wet/dry envirnoment, and a 4" x 9" x 9" block in a wet, anaerobic setup.

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Utilizing cell-pore bioslabs in strategic locations, this is the only wet/dry filter of its kind to provide complete nitrification. Its rocker assembly tilts back and forth to expose the cell-pore alternately to air and water, providing 20,000 square feet of surface area for highly effective ammonia and nitrite removal. BioSlab denitrifying block submerged in sump provides the ideal location for anaerobic bacteria to colonize and convert nitrate into harmless nitrogen gas and water. Works great for aquariums up to 500 gallons and reef aquariums up to 300 gallons.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...8&N=2004+22768

Has anyone used these bioslabs before? It makes sense, its like reproducing highly pourous live rock. I would just think it'd get clogged quickly, but it says its reusable...

Since most of us have ammonia and nitrite removal down well enough, the nitrate removal ability of the 4" thick slab sounds very interesting...
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Old 09-23-2006, 09:25 PM   #2
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It does make sense, however, it does not really produce a true anaerobic environment, which is the best at removing NO3. It is more of an aerobic setting which is great at removing NO2. Most systems like this rely on water volume, stocking levels, controlled feedings and water changes to keep NO3 low. IMHO, a better option is a sump filled with LR rubble. However, with enough other biological media, the unit you referenced would work okay.
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Old 09-23-2006, 11:16 PM   #3
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If you are planning on running serious lights, the bio-rocker might break the nutrients down so rapidly the only benefit would be to algae and cyanobacteria.
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Old 09-24-2006, 12:56 PM   #4
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Oh, no, I wasn't looking at getting a bio-rocker. I have a 20g sump I'm happy with.

I'm just aiming for zero nitrates. I feed sparingly, but it still tends to climb.

I had more or less forgot about DSB since I installed the tank. I've only got about 2" in the main, and had about 1" in the sump. I do see some gas bubbles in the main tank, where the sand has been piled up by blowing powerheads.

Obviously I could handle nitrate better with a DSB, so I've added another 2" in the sump, and will add another 2" there, and then add more to the main tank if I don't see an improvement.
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Old 09-24-2006, 01:15 PM   #5
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Larger chunks of live rock will have more anaerobic pockets to reduce nitrates. The additional sand depth is a good idea as well.
What is your water source?
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Old 09-24-2006, 10:30 PM   #6
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RO/DI.

I've got about 30 pounds of acropora skeletons, which I bought when I first got into the hobby. Obviously, they're not pourous, and just make lots of places where you can't get good waterflow. Although the fish love to swim in there to sleep. But basically they take up a ton of room, and probably offer little biological filtering. Thinking about replacing them one piece at a time with solid, but pourous LR.
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180G build thread

180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:39 AM   #7
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That would be a great idea.
Do you monitor the TDS of the RO/DI?
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:19 PM   #8
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Yes - normally zero solids output.
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180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:19 PM   #9
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Cool. Work on that rock.
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