Aqua Controller

[sevise]

My Neptune Systems Aquacontroller arrived yesterday. I set it up and have been recording the results through aquanotes.

I'm getting some kind of interence from my MH ballasts thats throwing the temp off. At night my temps read just above 80F. As each of my MH ballasts kicks on I see an instant drop of about 1.2 degrees. Then as they the ballasts turn off at night the temps instantly increased 1.2 degrees. Other than that my temp graph is very stable. Anyone have any idea on how to block the interence from the MH?

I did not realize the kit would not include calibration smaples for the PH probe so it not calibrated yet. However I can still get an idea on stability from the graph. My testkit gives me a PH around 8.3, the follwoing numbers are uncalibrated. Yesterday my PH remained a pretty constant 8.08-8.09. When the last of my Lights went off it started a 3hour decline to about 8.00. Then about 4AM in started to increase again. I have yet to reach 8.08 but I'm guessing thats where it will level off at. I have been kepping my fuge lit 24/7 which I may change because of this. However I do find it odd that it would start increasing for no particular reason. I will be getting calibration fluids sometime this week.

 

[mojoreef]

Hi Sevise you will like the aquacontroller, I have had one for years and dont know where I would be with out it. The probe should be calibrated from the factory, if not some calibration fluid will take care of it in short order. I would take a test of your alk to see what your buffering system is like.
On the interference, MH shouldnt do that, unless they are electronic (sometimes they interfer) Vho's or Pc's will interfer with all probes. Could the placement of the probe maybe doing something?? as in is it really close to the surface or the heat source?? if not you might need a compacitor. Give them a call its not an expensive item.

Mike

 

[sevise]

Right now I have the probes in the overflow of my display tank. I'll be moving them to the sump but I need to get a longer serial cable first, probobly pick one up at radio shack today. I do have electronic ballasts, from coralvue. In the evnt moving the probes doesn't fix the problem are there any ways to shield the interference? What is this compacitor?

The problem has to be interference. As each MH goes OFF the temp increases 1.6F in 1 minut. Also when the ballasta are on my temps fluctuate + or - one step every reading at night the data is much more stable.

The manual stated the temp probe was calibrated and looking at the night readings its pretty close. The readings with the MH on are way off though. It did say the PH probe was not calibarated though.

 

[Mad Mech Master]

I have no experience with this or any controller, but here is my .02.

I don't know how you have run the wires, but I would suggest an arrangement where the MH wiring is on one side of the tank, and the Aquacontroller's wiring on the other. This may reduce any RF interference. Any long stretch of wire may act like an antenna.

Also you may compare the 110AC line voltage with the lights on and off. The lights use a lot of power and may have an effect on voltage.

 

[mojoreef]

Yea I have had problems simular to this with electronic units, usually its Pc's or Vho's though. I have recommended this unit many times and it has seemed to help folks get past the problem

http://www.smarthome.com/4835.html


hope it helps



MIke

 

[sevise]

Thanks for the link on the noise filter.

I ended picking up the serial cable so I could move the AquaController to the basement sump, I also picked up 2 more timers. Based on last nights drop in PH I decided to try reverse lighting my fuge, the fuge lights will come on at 8PM and turn off at 10AM, opposite of the MH. I used the second timer to split up my T5s, its been something I've been meaning to do for a while just I've never gotten around to it.

This is the graph from yesterday to today. Black lines are MH going on or off, blue are the T5s, I moved the controller and rewired the lights in between the pink lines. The light schedule is...

9AM forward T5 ON
930AM rear T5 ON
10AM Left MH ON, Fuge lamp OFF
11AM Right T5 ON
7PM Left MH OFF
8PM Right MH OFF, Fuge lamp ON
830PM forward T5 OFF
9PM rear T5 OFF

Theres definately a difference now that I've shifted some things around.