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Old 01-25-2003, 09:22 PM   #11
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Many brands of carbon will leach phosphate, I have been told they all will, it is just a matter of how much. There is no such thing as FW and SW GAC. Kinda reminds me of when I was on the track team and I told the new guy to get me the left handed shot put. :P It is a lesson we have all had to learn, you can still use carbon, but it will become bioactive within a few days (the idea is to have all nitrification happen in the tank, not a filter), and it's ability to adsorb DOC, and toxins is used up within a couple of days anyway. All it really does is remove yellowing agents from the water after the first few days.
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Old 01-26-2003, 05:57 AM   #12
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Anybody have thoughts on the "Bio-Bale" that CPR Aquatic sells?

I've used both 'Bio-Bale' and the standard 'balls', and I have to agree with the guys at CPR that their product has a lot more surface area. It does tend to collect a bit more biological load than balls do (which could be good or bad, depending on how you look at it), but it also seems to provide a lot better growning area, IMO.
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Old 01-26-2003, 07:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Anybody have thoughts on the "Bio-Bale" that CPR Aquatic sells?
I think the biobale is a good media for biological filtration, but IMO, if you are doing a reef tank....you want all biological filtration to occur inside the tank. If it occurs external of the tank it becomes nitrate, inside the tank the nitrate formed is quickly removed via the denitrifying bacteria in the rock and sand.
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Old 01-26-2003, 09:54 PM   #14
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Hara,
Here's a link to an article here about AC...you may have already seen it. If not, it may offer some info on AC for you.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=1525
Read about the screw in lights you were trying. Keep us posted. I'm very interested how this turns out.
Logan J
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