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Old 09-17-2012, 06:22 AM   #1
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Bio filtration

I'm still a little confused with a few things on bio filtration. I'm currently running a canister filter with rowa phos, carbon, filter sponge and seachem matrix. I have approx. 20kg of live rock in my 180litre tank but no deep sand bed. I did have really high nitrates but ever since I added the matrix to the canister they are right down to practically zero using an api test kit however I still have nuisance red hair type algae growing on my rocks so there must be some nitrates still present. Should I ditch the seachem matrix and leave it to my rock? Could removing the seachem matrix cause a crash? And would it still work with rock but no deep sand bed? I do 10% weekly changes and vacuum my sand. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:05 AM   #2
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The nitrates and phosphates are still there its just that the algae is using it up so its nit showing up on tests. The canister filter is most likely a big part of the problem unless you are cleaning it weekly.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:10 AM   #3
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I clean it every week when I do the water change. Rinse the mech pads in RO water, and rinse the rest of the media and carbon to clear any detritus.
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottm84
I clean it every week when I do the water change. Rinse the mech pads in RO water, and rinse the rest of the media and carbon to clear any detritus.
If you're cleaning it weekly then that shouldn't be the cause of the problem. How much you feed? How many fish you have? What size tank? What kind of CUC you have?
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:36 PM   #5
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I feed once every other day, only have a couple of ocellaris clowns, 10 hermits and a couple of turbo snails. The tank is 180 litres.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:15 PM   #6
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Algae is photosynthetic. How long are your lights being left on?
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:25 PM   #7
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With that being said, I've had algae and had 0 phosphates and 0 nitrates long ago but I did a few things and it went away. First I changed my food. If you use frozen brine etc., I let mine dissolve in a small cup of RO water and then only fed the actual chunks of food. I also changed 20% of my water weekly. I cut back 2-3 hours of lighting ( changed bulbs so that may of helped), added an extra powerhead, because red algae doesn't do well with high water flow. If its truly red, then it's probably cyano. It takes a little while to get rid of.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:15 PM   #8
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I've been told that it is dinoflagellates. My lights are usually on for 8 hours and actinics on for 2 hours either side but I'm going to reduce that by half. My bulbs are only a few months old. I feed exactly the same way as you do. I'm going to change out my carbon and rowaphos as soon as I can and also look to purchase a phosphate reactor in the near future. Hopefully all these steps will help
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:16 PM   #9
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I'm pretty sure i have enough flow in the tank but I do have spare power heads if needed
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottm84
I'm still a little confused with a few things on bio filtration. I'm currently running a canister filter with rowa phos, carbon, filter sponge and seachem matrix. I have approx. 20kg of live rock in my 180litre tank but no deep sand bed. I did have really high nitrates but ever since I added the matrix to the canister they are right down to practically zero using an api test kit however I still have nuisance red hair type algae growing on my rocks so there must be some nitrates still present. Should I ditch the seachem matrix and leave it to my rock? Could removing the seachem matrix cause a crash? And would it still work with rock but no deep sand bed? I do 10% weekly changes and vacuum my sand. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated
Stop disturbing the sandbed everytime you do it releases nutrients back into water get some nass snails to stir it for you this way it only releases small amounts at a time
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