Bristle Worms

[Jinx]

I didn't see that u removed them, Was trying help with the slime as u never stated if u had cleaned it and it had gone as no its a pain, the biggest killer is stress like bad water, bullying why asking about water tests and other stuff as if things are dying then something ain't right and we all love are fish

No I mean I found the quote button as in I made 3 posts back to back with only quotes. Do forgive me if I appeared rude it was my sarcasm. I am very appreciative of the responses and advice. I desperately want to find the cause so I will answer all questions. My reference to the ocean water is because dirty tank water does not smell like the wonderful salty smell of my beloved ocean.

The bio balls have been replaced with live rock rubble. I have fitted the sides of this chamber with plastic grating and fitted a top as well. I then have a cut to fit filtration pad and then I make my carbon bag myself to lay on top of the filter pad. My skimmer is in the chamber where the original filter would go. I'm posting a pic of the original BioCube setup to help aid in the description of the modifications I mentioned above. Oh and I have a 2nd water pump due to the fact that the one doesn't provide enough of a water flow.

 

[Jinx]

I will say that the struggle with the purple slime and the aiptasia is still on going. I have the long algae growing on the back of the tank which was a reason I was wanting a little snail help. I know a little of this and that is good but too much of anything is not good.

 

[Jinx]

A fresh pic of my tank

 

[mr_X]

The tank doesn't look too bad. I would keep up with water changes for a while and feed minimally. Kalk paste the aptasia as you see them.
The reason the snails are dying is high nutrients. Nitrates or phosphates....one of the two is killing them. I just had a similar problem. I couldn't keep a snail alive until I got the high nutrient issue sorted out.
Mine was from build up in the sump.

 

[Jinx]

Can my live plants contribute to nitrates not being right?
The above pic was taken for the post but until 3days ago the rock on the left was seriously over grown so I trimmed a massive amount and moved them to my plant tank.

 

[Keithhjs]

Can my live plants contribute to nitrates not being right?
The above pic was taken for the post but until 3days ago the rock on the left was seriously over grown so I trimmed a massive amount and moved them to my plant tank.

Your plants absorb nitrates and phosphates so they are helping remove them. On the other hand if they are growing so fast suggest there is plenty for them to consume lol

 

[jeffaquarius]

Have you tested your water for any presence of copper? It can kill cuc.

 

[Jinx]

Have you tested your water for any presence of copper? It can kill cuc.

No I haven't done that but wouldn't copper show signs with my plants too

 

[jeffaquarius]

My meaning of cycling is what you explained with the water change. It's the only means by which I can gradually get the tank to a stabilized. I've actually come a long ways with it. Tho I did accidentally kill a firefish due to an avalanche once. I know that there's good bacterias that are in the sand so since I have the worms and such I mainly focus on rocks and walls of the tank. I have a modified filtering for my BioCube. It's not the original filter plate and lil balls. I have a skimmer in the compartment where the original filter would go. But I wouldn't do the the cycling more than once a week at most. I'm not a pro in saltwater or with corals however, I have experience in freshwater. Disturbing the tank too often causes too much stress on the critters and there is a higher chance of losing tank occupants.

There is also a chance that your constant work on your tank is creating stress on your fish. BTW cycling means the tank has matured that enough good bacteria has been established that there is a balance of converting ammonia or other toxic (nitrite) into less toxic nitrate and nitrogen. It's not partial changing of water. What is ammonia reading so far?

 

[Jinx]

There is also a chance that your constant work on your tank is creating stress on your fish. BTW cycling means the tank has matured that enough good bacteria has been established that there is a balance of converting ammonia or other toxic (nitrite) into less toxic nitrate and nitrogen. It's not partial changing of water. What is ammonia reading so far?

I'm sorry have you read this entire thread? Because I told Bray84 almost that exact first sentence of yours and he contested how wrong I was there.
I joined this forum for advice and at fist I was so delighted at how helpful and nice everyone here was. I received tons of helpful advice however, on this thread I seem to getting attacked for some reason.
BTW It was an overly mature tank when I received it. The cycling calls for me to what? Clean the tank and the rocks. This aquarium was a neglected purple slime mess and that would mean unbalance more bad than good bacterias. Hmm so if I keep cycling umm maybe it'll start balancing on an equal level. The most "constant work" I do on my tank is daily feeding, temperature check, fin count, and my favorite observation. I take notes of what I do, tests, water changes, adding anyone new, etc.
My ammonia tests have always been fine. I haven't let any of the tests go too far off target. The main ones that go off target are pH and Nitrate but they've only been slightly off.
I agree with too much food being available for the bristleworms, I double checked my filter and rock rubble to ensure the oxygen exchange thru the flow system. I did see a bit of an issue and I fixed it. I know the skimmer is fine it's new. If it was copper my plants would show fertility issues which it's opposite. The plants are growing amazingly. They are taking in some of the nitrates and if it weren't for them I'm sure my nitrate tests would be way off.
I began this thread because No I'm not familiar with all the possible reason that a shrimp won't survive in the tank. Originally I noticed my half alive shrimp being tickled by the bristleworms so therefore I blamed them. Forgive me. But I look into each persons advice seriously if its not trying to 1) insult my intelligence 2) requires me to keep repeating myself when I think everyone has a scroll and back button.
Now was there some advice you're offering or are you just having your fun trying to bully someone?

 

[jeffaquarius]

Some people just can't take advice the positive way. Yes I did read the postings since day one and following it up. I may also learn some stuff from others. You did mention that you cycle your tank by changing water and I'm sorry if you are offended when someone is trying to make a correction. I never mentioned any rocks. Might be from another person. Anyway, you seem to have enough experience and may not even need any help at all cause you seem to be doing everything right. Good luck.

 

[Jinx]

Some people just can't take advice the positive way. Yes I did read the postings since day one and following it up. I may also learn some stuff from others. You did mention that you cycle your tank by changing water and I'm sorry if you are offended when someone is trying to make a correction. I never mentioned any rocks. Might be from another person. Anyway, you seem to have enough experience and may not even need any help at all cause you seem to be doing everything right. Good luck.

From where you got that statement about the cycling

Originally Posted by Bray84
I'm no pro but would do 100% tank clean and don't mean the water mean everything to remove the slime algae, with the rock best way clean it is have two buckets one with clean water and other with clean or tank water and remove each rock and clean it in tank water bucket and rinse in clean water before put back in tank. But do the tank before the rock and do big water changes few times a week till its gone as having it in tank ain't good really. Plus the algae can hide nitrates so test show its fine. Cus the person before was over feeding and didn't look after it things ain't goin change over night so best thing to start with is the slime What u mean keep cycling?


My reply;
My meaning of cycling is what you explained with the water change. It's the only means by which I can gradually get the tank to a stabilized. I've actually come a long ways with it. Tho I did accidentally kill a firefish due to an avalanche once. I KNOW THAT THERES GOOD BACTERIA THAT ARE IN THE SAND SO SINCE I HAVE THE WORMS AND SUCH I MAINLY FOCUS ON ROCKS and walls of the tank. I have a modified filtering for my BioCube. It's not the original filter plate and lil balls. I have a skimmer in the compartment where the original filter would go. But I wouldn't do the the cycling more than once a week at most. I'm not a pro in saltwater or with corals however, I have experience in freshwater. DISTURBING THE TANK TOO OFTEN CAUSES TOO MUCH STRESS on the critters and there is a higher chance of losing tank occupants.

I am sorry if I miss read your post. I can very easily be getting terms mixed up and again I apologize. The above post is what I was referring to. I'm not sure if you've ever had or even wanted to clean and save the life of a live rock with natural settled button polyps and such but I'm kind of doing if backwards I suppose. Instead of getting it to purple up and start the bacteria I'm trying to cut down algae from the rocks and balance the bacterias coming from the other extreme side of neglect and plenty of decay that the lil worms were feasting on. I just don't want to shock the occupants that did survive.

 

[mr_X]

There is already bacteria on the rock. There is bacteria on everything in the tank. If you are referring to the cyanobacteria, then THAT bacteria is brought on by an over abundance of nutrients. Partial water changes, siphoning out what cyano you can with each change, and cutting back on feeding is how you would combat it.
I would not feed daily. Two or three times a week is plenty. It's going to take time to undo this issue. I would be doing weekly 25% water changes and feeding minimally for a while.

Just an observation- I don't see anyone attacking you. I see people trying to throw ideas at you and some that are confused about your terminology.

 

[Bray84]

What I stated was to clean the tank of the slime algae not a normal water change, why I wrote about cleaning the rock and tank 100% I said the odd clean hand ain't going to hurt but of course if ur hands in tank more than its out it going to stress things out. No ones attacking u we just trying help with things that we've been throught are selfs

 

[Gregcoyote]

Algae grows from only one thing, build up of organic nutrients, usually from feeding. Cyano can be triggered by high silicates as well. Some salt mixes are high in selenium.

Your plants exist on very low levels of nutrients, so you can have high phosphates (over .1ppm IMO) and also a lot of plants. My nitrites for example just .018 ppm and my plants still grow . Algae is very good about locking up nitrogen byproducts. I agree with comments that consistent water changes, change in feeding habits and physically removing what algae you can will set you right. My algae in my scrubber starts slowing down when I get phosphates below .1 ppm.

Everybody has an opinion on any of these forums . As with any information gleaned from the Internet, you have to eventually make up your own mind as to who is right. Sometimes what gets posted is a bit more aggressive than it needs to be. When I had my fish stores, experts walked in every day with one sort of nonsense or another. I just smiled and nodded.

 

[reefman1511]

Hi the fish are more hardy than inverts and can survive changes in salinity and nitrates ect better
Don't reduce your saltinity all at once do it over a few days and try to keep it around 25-26
If your tank does not have a lid you will need to top up with ro water weekly as your saltinity will increase with evaporation
You will also need to keep up your weekly water change
As for nitrates /phosphates ect you can get media for both which comes in a bag or sock which you place in filter or sump and it rapidly absorbs both when it has done its job you will be on top of it and can take it from there your alge will start to go quickly
As for snails ect going missing I had same problem and found it was a mantis shrimp which was doing it (might be might not) I lost snails/crabs/shrimps could not work out why then I saw it made a trap caught it (passed it on to pet shop)and have never lost anything since
Hope this might help (all through personal experience )

 

[Jinx]

There is already bacteria on the rock. There is bacteria on everything in the tank. If you are referring to the cyanobacteria, then THAT bacteria is brought on by an over abundance of nutrients. Partial water changes, siphoning out what cyano you can with each change, and cutting back on feeding is how you would combat it.
I would not feed daily. Two or three times a week is plenty. It's going to take time to undo this issue. I would be doing weekly 25% water changes and feeding minimally for a while.

Just an observation- I don't see anyone attacking you. I see people trying to throw ideas at you and some that are confused about your terminology.

Thank you for actual advice.
Yes it's THAT bad bacteria that I've been struggling with. And usually during the day of the ChemiClean treament I take the time to look over the rock to see its at and pull a sad looking rock out an wash and rinse, as you said in the quote. I feed my fish 1/4-1/3 a cube of brine. If that is too much then I guess I'll stop.as for filter feeding that 2 time a week because as I said in a post above I agree with too much food being available.
I suppose when I have the feeling that I have to defend myself and repeat answers to questions I believe that I'm under attack. I came into the forum introduced myself in the meet and great. I'm new to saltwater and the terminology that is used here and am still trying to determine which is for reef talk, forum talk, and then tank talk. I'm not a stupid person just ignorant to forum lingo and saltwater aquariums. Starting a response post to me with " I don't know where you got that info..." It puts me on the defense.

I apologize

 

[Jinx]

Hi the fish are more hardy than inverts and can survive changes in salinity and nitrates ect better
Don't reduce your saltinity all at once do it over a few days and try to keep it around 25-26
If your tank does not have a lid you will need to top up with ro water weekly as your saltinity will increase with evaporation
You will also need to keep up your weekly water change
As for nitrates /phosphates ect you can get media for both which comes in a bag or sock which you place in filter or sump and it rapidly absorbs both when it has done its job you will be on top of it and can take it from there your alge will start to go quickly
As for snails ect going missing I had same problem and found it was a mantis shrimp which was doing it (might be might not) I lost snails/crabs/shrimps could not work out why then I saw it made a trap caught it (passed it on to pet shop)and have never lost anything since
Hope this might help (all through personal experience )

Very helpful
I will look into that.

 

[Jinx]

I found this tiny wiggly guy on the glass after I did a water change. I know he's not a bristle.

 

[mr_X]

Not sure about the worm, but it doesn't look like anything harmful that I know of. Do you know where your rock came from? I mean, what country...That can help you/us with the I.D.