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Old 10-27-2012, 10:13 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Rosesrblu1
When you distrub the brown stuff on the sand, does it come off like a mat? Is it a bit fuzzy?
Not fuzzy.

I suck it up when I do a PWC and it comes off cleanly, won't come off like a mat (doesn't come off like cyano does) but lets say I use my 1/4" hose- a 3/8 diameter area will come with.
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:49 PM   #12
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Think mine started like that too. What lights are you running? I have found that lowering the intensity of my whites has curtailed the issue and I am dosing carbon to lower the nutrient levels.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:21 AM   #13
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I am running 6 T5HO bulbs on my display. 39w each 36 inches in length. 3 white 10ks, 2 blue antics, and 1 purple coral bulb (came with fixture)

My 20g long sump has 2 T5HO bulbs. 1 10k, 1 blue antic. 18" long 24w I think

Antics on display tank/sump lights are on for 11hrs a day, display tank lights are on for 8hrs. 1.5hr overlap for the night/day effect with the antics coming on first and going off last
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:09 AM   #14
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You may want to change out the white bulbs for fresh ones. I know 8 months isn't a very long time but you can see if it helps and if not you can use the old ones fir the remainder of their life and still have the new ones for when you need them. Some fixtures have mediocre lamps.

You really should change out the filters in your RO. If you have a 50gpd membrane or less you could upgrade it to a 75gpd one and get the correct flow restrictor to make sure it works. I once had my flow restrictor seize up on me and that raised my TDS pretty bad until I got a new one. A 75gpd membrane has a higher rejection rate than slower ones so it'll make better water in addition to more. Just something to think about.

You could also try some ChemiPure Elite to help with the phosphates.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:27 AM   #15
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You may want to change out the white bulbs for fresh ones. I know 8 months isn't a very long time but you can see if it helps and if not you can use the old ones fir the remainder of their life and still have the new ones for when you need them. Some fixtures have mediocre lamps.

You really should change out the filters in your RO. If you have a 50gpd membrane or less you could upgrade it to a 75gpd one and get the correct flow restrictor to make sure it works. I once had my flow restrictor seize up on me and that raised my TDS pretty bad until I got a new one. A 75gpd membrane has a higher rejection rate than slower ones so it'll make better water in addition to more. Just something to think about.

You could also try some ChemiPure Elite to help with the phosphates.
The bulbs aren't exactly cheap as u know. If that's the case I'd rather spend an extra 100 and get those LED flood lights and be done with it. The LEDs won't die out as these bulbs do right?

My RO/DI unit is that 5 stage eBay one. 100gpd. I might as well just get a new one, no? My water pressure is 55psi too.

My phosphates tested low is that ok? Still need to use that additive anyway...?
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:57 PM   #16
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You would need to either hang the floodlights or have a hood canopy to use floodlights. They sell saltwater sets of them on eBay that come with a white and a blue. You wouldn't need to change them out for years. They get a little hot so I use a fan in my canopy to keep em cool. May be easier to just get fresh lamps for the fixture you have.

You don't need a new to but some fresh filters are a good idea. You can find all of them online at bulk reef supply.

You don't have to use Chemi-pure. The algae is likely to be from your RO or lights.
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:01 PM   #17
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IMO, one of the main problems is phosphate. Yes, silica can be a contributor, but I think the organics level is too high in this tank. You clear out Cyano by increasing flow, reducing organics and silicates along with better filtration and less feeding. Soft corals need phosphate under .1 and other corals need is under .05. Most test kits other than Hanna do not show levels this low accurately. Even a small amount of phosphate or ammonia can cause corals to crash. As they crash, guess what, they release more phosphates and ammonia. Your makeup water can be a major contributor to this problem.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:42 PM   #18
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I feed maybe 3 times a week and only a pinch full. 5 fish need to share so I eye ball how much each one gets and make adjustments.

I add phyto-plex for my filter feeders, calcium when needed.

I think I will try to lower my hours that the lights are on first.

I adjusted my protein skimmer for a more dark skim vs the wet light skim I was getting. See if that helps too, idk

Keep doing PWCs too.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by tnice17
I feed maybe 3 times a week and only a pinch full. 5 fish need to share so I eye ball how much each one gets and make adjustments.

I add phyto-plex for my filter feeders, calcium when needed.

I think I will try to lower my hours that the lights are on first.

I adjusted my protein skimmer for a more dark skim vs the wet light skim I was getting. See if that helps too, idk

Keep doing PWCs too.
What are you filter feeding?
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:59 AM   #20
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My clam and scallop are filter feeders so I add Phyto-Plex by Kent Marine

I stopped ever since this algae started but why should I add nutrients and plankton to my water when the algae is from too many nutrients! Lol
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