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Old 10-18-2011, 10:16 PM   #1421
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yeah hopefully, technically speaking they've been out since like the 80's... there was no need for them or something and it was shelved until like 8 or nine yrs ago. But if you factor the cost over the life of the bulb currently its approx. 200 a yr, not including the t5 which are attatched like some mh's have. then in 15 yrs when it needs to be replaced the bulb will be hecka cheap.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:31 PM   #1422
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Plasma is great if you have a thousand gallon reef and the budget a public aquarium has. On a smaller scale, modern LEDs are becoming the best solution. If you are hard core, and simply don't believe in the LED fairy, buy MH, actinic fluorescents and a chiller if wanting a hard coral reef.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:44 PM   #1423
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i agree, the cost is extremely prohibitive kind of what i was getting at. even at 200 a yr you can buy a new fixture every 3 yrs and replace bulbs every 6 months as scheduled for a 400w mh at nearly the same cost. while 200 a yr is easier to swallow than the initial 3500 it still a tech that has a ways to go, but for those that have to have the best, it certainly is a contender.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:02 AM   #1424
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If you want the best, you put in light tubes to your roof and use mother nature most of the day. Check out some of the natural light reefs on this forum. If I am lucky enough to build a new home, the reef tank will use at least three of these light tubes. Sorry, Buffy, it's your thread, but it was an interesting conversation.
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:44 PM   #1425
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oops, see next post, hit post instead of advanced. sorry
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:29 PM   #1426
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pH

No sweat guys, keep going with the conversation as I'm learning too. I like the back and forth as it's not just one opinion and that's it. So the more the merrier.

Sorry didn't get online like I wanted to.

pH's don't match up enough to put in my fishies. Now as you guys said if my RO/DI and such are working right then I would have to raise the pH more than likely. Well guess what........... I have to raise my pH. So that's good right?

pH - dt tank - 7.8 but the corals are still okay. That maybe why they aren't doing as good as I think they should be. (Expanding that is)

pH - ro/di water 7.8
pH - qt tank 8.1

So the best pH so far that I've read has been 8.1 - 8.4, and 8.2 about being optimal. Questions:

1. Is that for reef and fish combined? I have both. Fish are one pH and coral another pH.

2. What should I use for optimal/goal pH numbers 8.2?

2. Do I buffer the ro/di in the ro/di container or do I buffer in the dt tank itself? (I do not have sump or refugium YET).

3. What is the brand you all recommend for buffering?

4. What parameters do I need to keep an eye on that pH buffering affects?

5. Will I end up playing cat and mouse with the pH buffering and say for example calcium/magnesium, phosphates and stuff?

6. How long should it take or should "I" take to buffer from a 7.8 pH to 8.2 pH? I saw a link about this, that was posted previously but got awfully confused on all the EXCELLENT and INDEPTH information, unfortunately was far too excellent and indepth for me to understand at the moment. I need a little help til I can grasp all that please.

Don't know if I should post this but I feel this is important to everyone and if you could just make a note of it in the back of our full SW brains so Moderators would you please leave this information in this post. Thank you.

Had to take my dog to vet yesterday, started drooling out of one side of his mouth a couple weeks ago, mouth sagging, eye sagging alittle and he stumbled like he was drunk and gonna fall over and he was diagnosed with Bells Palsy, which we believe he got from lyme and anaplasmosis diseases which he tested positive for both (since the rest of him showed he was healthy). Both diseases are tick born. The tick is the deer tick (Ixodes spp) also known as black-legged tick and the western black-legged tick. However Bells Palsy is not just from lyme's diseases and ticks, it can be gotten from a virus, injury or any number of things. So just please be ware. Am posting this because humans are also susceptible to Bells Palsy, Lyme's Disease and others from various sources.

Bells Palsy symptoms for my dog resembled a stroke (see above). Lyme's is now treatable and so is the Anaplasmosis using the same anti-biotics. Treatment is a month long. Full recovery is under debate. Tests will show posts for years. And of course the longer you wait for treatment, the more the end results could differ.

They would not treat him unless he was vaccinated (which I am against-but had no choice because of the law) and now he can hardly move his hind end, is very stiff, off balance and in obvious pain, after researching I believe he is having a reaction (to his law enforced shots) and am waiting to hear back from vet, so I have been pretty busy caring for him and helping him outside and onto and off furniture.

Thanks for reading the above and making note If it helps anyone then I'm happy.

Back to aquarium:

Have some more running to do today and dang it I hope to get all parameters tested this time. I have yet to do my pwc for this week. I'd like to know about the pH buffering if possible before pwc so that if I need to do it prior to, then I can buffer the water before using, unless I should do pwc, then buffer. IDK so any help with the process would be great.

I don't have any pH up or down buffering at all. I will stop at store on way home if someone can post what I should buy. Thanks again everyone and so sorry so long a post.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:56 PM   #1427
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IMO, I would work on raising the KH first to at least 8-10. That buffering will help control the PH swings. If you are keeping corals 8-8.4 is okay, I prefer 8.3 or 4, but it is sometime difficult (especially in an old tank) to keep PH this high.

Seachem makes a buffer that works nicely, I would dissolve it in RO water and drip the dose into my tank over a few hours. Never raise more than .05 at a 24 hour stretch if possible. I personally use baking soda for minor PH tweaks. It is a solid acid neutralizer and cheap to use. There is some argument over it's use, but look at the forums, it has been used for PH adjustment for decades. But to be non-controversal, I would use the prepared PH/buffering products.

You will, after establishing some harder corals, need constant calcium supplementation. This is done with lime water (Kalkwasser) addition, generally at night, because it raises your PH and the addition of a two part calcium/alkalinity supplement like B-Ionic, or the generic brands BRS sells. These additives will also raise your KH and stabilize your PH.

PH is always going to drift up and down slightly, but should not vary more than .2 in a 24 hour time frame. Just My opinion. Move slowly here as these changes if too abrupt can cause harm.

I have a house full of dogs on a 300 acre wildlife reserve full of deer. We keep our dogs dosed with tick medication all year long. I feel your pain as my dogs are my best friends.
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:54 PM   #1428
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Sorry to hear about your pup. The more you care about something the harder it is to see it suffer. Best of luck Buffy. Hope things get better
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:57 PM   #1429
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Originally Posted by coffeetwitch View Post
sorry to hear about your pup. The more you care about something the harder it is to see it suffer. Best of luck buffy. Hope things get better
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:54 PM   #1430
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Thanks guys, I'm sure he will get better. Long day but time to get my testing done on my water so I can see where I need to start dosing and get back on track with my tank.

Am looking forward to a new stand for a sump/refugium so I hope when my friend gives me the cost for building it that it won't be too expensive and I can "get 'er done" lol.

Anyone else got thoughts on the pH questions?
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