No sweat guys, keep going with the conversation as I'm learning too. I like the back and forth as it's not just one opinion and that's it. So the more the merrier.
Sorry didn't get online like I wanted to.
pH's don't match up enough to put in my fishies. Now as you guys said if my RO
and such are working right then I would have to raise the pH more than likely. Well guess what........... I have to raise my pH.
So that's good right?
pH - dt tank - 7.8
but the corals are still okay. That maybe why they aren't doing as good as I think they should be. (Expanding that is)
pH - ro
pH - qt tank 8.1
So the best pH so far that I've read has been 8.1 - 8.4, and 8.2 about being optimal. Questions:
1. Is that for reef and fish combined? I have both. Fish are one pH and coral another pH.
2. What should I use for optimal/goal pH numbers 8.2?
2. Do I buffer the ro
in the ro
container or do I buffer in the dt tank itself? (I do not have sump or refugium YET).
3. What is the brand you all recommend for buffering?
4. What parameters do I need to keep an eye on that pH buffering affects?
5. Will I end up playing cat and mouse with the pH buffering and say for example calcium/magnesium, phosphates and stuff?
6. How long should it take or should "I" take to buffer from a 7.8 pH to 8.2 pH? I saw a link about this, that was posted previously but got awfully confused on all the EXCELLENT and INDEPTH information, unfortunately was far too excellent and indepth for me to understand at the moment. I need a little help til I can grasp all that please.
Don't know if I should post this but
I feel this is important to everyone and if you could just make a note of it in the back of our full SW
brains so Moderators would you please leave this information in this post. Thank you.
Had to take my dog to vet yesterday, started drooling out of one side of his mouth a couple weeks ago, mouth sagging, eye sagging alittle and he stumbled like he was drunk and gonna fall over and he was diagnosed with Bells Palsy, which we believe he got from lyme and anaplasmosis diseases which he tested positive for both (since the rest of him showed he was healthy). Both diseases are tick born. The tick is the deer tick (Ixodes spp) also known as black-legged tick and the western black-legged tick. However Bells Palsy is not just from lyme's diseases and ticks, it can be gotten from a virus, injury or any number of things. So just please be ware. Am posting this because humans are also susceptible to Bells Palsy, Lyme's Disease and others from various sources.
Bells Palsy symptoms for my dog resembled a stroke (see above). Lyme's is now treatable and so is the Anaplasmosis using the same anti-biotics. Treatment is a month long. Full recovery is under debate. Tests will show posts for years. And of course the longer you wait for treatment, the more the end results could differ.
They would not treat him unless he was vaccinated (which I am against-but had no choice because of the law) and now he can hardly move his hind end, is very stiff, off balance and in obvious pain, after researching I believe he is having a reaction (to his law enforced shots) and am waiting to hear back from vet, so I have been pretty busy caring for him and helping him outside and onto and off furniture.
Thanks for reading the above and making note
If it helps anyone then I'm happy.
Back to aquarium:
Have some more running to do today and dang it I hope to get all parameters tested this time. I have yet to do my pwc
for this week. I'd like to know about the pH buffering if possible before pwc
so that if I need to do it prior to, then I can buffer the water before using, unless I should do pwc
, then buffer. IDK so any help with the process would be great.
I don't have any pH up or down buffering at all
. I will stop at store on way home if someone can post what I should buy. Thanks again everyone and so sorry so long a post.