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Old 06-04-2007, 05:51 PM   #21
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The tank is installed - I didnt' get a pic of it in position, but here it is on the custom cabinet base... it took 4 of us to lift it up. The top they built is extremely flat and perfectly level, but I still used a thin layer of blue fan-fold foam.

You can see the two dual outlets I had installed, right where the ballasts will sit in the (very large) canopy.
The cabinet panels will go on in a few days, as well as the canopy. Today

I got the holes cut for the drains/returns today. Keeping the rubber washers on the bottom of the overflow tubes is tricky, I need to use a drop of silicone to hold them on or something.

I also removed the "All-Glass" sign from the front



(later update)

The tank is set. The panels for the front and back are onsite, and going on first thing in the AM, cause the staining guys are ready to go. By tomorrow this time, it should look pretty much done, just missing the sanding and laquer coats.

I need to tape off the top, front, and sides of the tank before they do that.

I hope I got the bulkheads tight enough -the tool included with the overflow kit couldn't reach up in there very well, but I got them as tight as I could. They seem solid.
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180G build thread

180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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Old 06-05-2007, 12:39 PM   #22
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Bottled drinking water is out of the question. $8 and up for 5G of RO filtered water. Well over $300 to fill a 180. No way. For that much cash, I'll rent a flatbed from Lowe's for $30 and haul a couple barrels of my own RO/DI water out there, or wait for water to be available on-site.

Update later - the tank is filled. I got lucky and a water truck was on-site - I had to take advantage of the moment.

I've got some prime, a heater, and a smaller filter I'm taking out later to get the water ready for salt.
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180G build thread

180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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Old 06-07-2007, 01:42 AM   #23
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Salt, heater (I need 2x300W), 6 jumbo raw shrimp, a couple powerheads (I need more) has all been added.

I only added enough mix for 160G - so I need to get another bucket, but the LFS was out of Reef Crystals.

Still no circulation via the built-in drains/returns. The specs on the sheet said the overflows were 1" ID vinyl tubing inserts - they're not, they're apparently 1 1/4" ID, so I have to return the 28" of 1" for the 1 1/4". I'll get a foot of it first this time to make sure.

I'm running all this off a temporary extension cord (a heavy-duty one), as there isn't yet power in the house, except for a single box. I'll need to get another line before adding the 2x300W heaters. Right now I just have a 50W, which I doubt will come close to being enough, unless it really warms up.

The returns are definately 3/4" bulkheads/inserts.

It was fun dumping a full bucket of salt in all at once

The canopy doors are actually two pairs of doors, hinged in the middle, so when I swing them open, the entire front of the aquarium is accessible, with no dividers ("styles") in the way.

I need to seal up the top of the tank for a couple days, because they'll be staining/sanding/varnishing soon. Rather lose air exchange than get that stuff in my water.

Also.

To save a few bucks, I'm thinking about doing a single drain line to the basement, to the sump, then of course a single return - and doing a second line as a close circuit flow. I'd take the overflow from one side, return it to the other side, with, say, a mag 9.5. That'd be around 700GPH roughly I think (off the top of my head).

Then I'd take the other overflow line to the basement (each should do about 600GPH), to the fuge, then return that to the other side.

I'm really under a budget crunch. Even the salt is getting to be an issue

I could save a couple hundred bucks on a pump and return tubing.

Thoughts?





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180G build thread

180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:30 AM   #24
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Wow! Quite a deal to build a palace around a fish tank!! :^)
Thanks for taking the time to tell your story. Wanna see the final set up with lights and all.
Congrats!

CH
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:14 AM   #25
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Going to the basement because you want more room or easier to make pwc?

You should have plenty of space under the tank for sump/fuge/auto-top-off. Your pumps are going to put off a little heat as well (<3 degrees) and doing a closed loop will cut down on tank clutter, sounds like a plan.
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Old 06-07-2007, 11:01 AM   #26
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The tubing problem was my fault. The 3/4" bulkhead is for 3/4" tubing, but the 1" bulkhead is for 1 1/4" tubing. I assumed it was for 1" tubing, if I'd RTFM I would have seen this.

Tecwzrd, I have many reasons for draining to a basement setup - cooling, much more room (I'm going to have a 55G fuge, EuroReef RS180 skimmer, RO/DI with a 45G resevoir for mixing, auto-top-off, PWC's, etc. Noise is an issue. Smell from a busy protein skimmer is an issue (I've smelled mine occasionally, walking in the room - and this is in a dining room!). Power is an issue. Fuge lighting would add more heat - more than a couple degrees.

Add a closed loop pump, skimmer pump, a UV pump and UV, and a return pump, and it's going to add too much heat, that during the summer I'll need a chiller.

As it is, I'm going to be working to pull heat away from 2 dual MH ballasts in the canopy and 2x250 + 2x175MH bulbs.

I've been doing PWC's in my current dining room for 18 months. No way I'll do it in a brand-new house. I don't think anyone would want to hand-carry 70 gallons of water to do a 25% PWC (i'm counting sump), and there is just nowhere around where the tank to put replacement water. Dragging a hose to/from the tank is out of the question. Been doing all that long enough. Doesn't matter how careful you are, water always gets splashed or spilled somewhere.

I spent a year with the equipment under the stand here - and it was never a nice experience. Nowhere for cables, heat, trying to plumb everything in a tight space - other than the long plumbing runs and the return pump requirement, I just have no interest in going that route again.

I've never once planned to run any equipment under the cabinet, and have planned for a basement setup since the blueprint stage of the house. I've got a floor drain right where the basement setup is going, as well as a 4" PVC drain I had installed, and a large sink, and and my RO/DI water source.

So, while it would certainly make something easier, tecwzrd, there's just no way Plus, the way this stand is built, there's honestly not that much room under it. Good height, but front to back is very shallow because of the reinforcing 2x4's.
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180G build thread

180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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Old 06-07-2007, 12:08 PM   #27
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Basement it is then Is anything else going to be in the basement besides what you mentioned?

I was confused about the following though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoot
To save a few bucks, I'm thinking about doing a single drain line to the basement, to the sump, then of course a single return
Were you considering two drain lines and two return lines with multiple pumps for redundancy? It could save slightly but having peace of mind that water is still moving in case one pump breaks is nice to have also.
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Old 06-07-2007, 01:25 PM   #28
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I was going to run both drains to the basement (the tank has 2 sets of Megaflow drains/returns), and pump two separate lines back up, to avoid the issue of having a single return pump fail.

The closed loop would just save money on a 2nd big return pump, and the extra plumbing. Plus, I can probably get some pretty wicked water flow in a closed loop under the tank, without buying an expensive pump.

Let's see, the RO, the resevoir (45G trash can) for pre-mixing, the RO holding tank (3G), the fuge, skimmer, return pump(s?), heaters, my home-built top-off system, lights on the fuge of course. All the chemicals, salt, tools, accessories, would be there too.
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180G build thread

180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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Old 06-07-2007, 01:53 PM   #29
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Scoot,

I know this is easy for me to say, but don't make compromises now that you'll regret later. If you want to do the closed loop now, do it with the intention of adding the second return pump later.

I don't get the 45g for pre-mixing. Is that for your pwc's? What are you using for your ATO? Just the 3g holding tank? I use a 45g brute trash for amy ato water. I only fill it every 2-3 weeks. I believe that's better for the rodi system as opposed to having it constantly cycle on and off. By making large batches I am able to flush the membrane before and after making a batch thereby prolonging the life of the membrane.
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Old 06-07-2007, 02:08 PM   #30
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I'd still be able to add the second line and second return from the basement at any time. But I think a closed loop would make it easier to get some serious water flow, and actually approach that magical 1 turnover number, without heavy-duty, power-hungry pumps in the basement. That also will back off the water flowing through the sump, which I'm worried would be a bit much at 1500GPH.

Yes - the 45G is what I use now for pre-mixing SW for PWC's. It makes PWC's fun (almost).

I pump out about 30G into a drain right behind the tank (4" PVC drain), then pump in (slowly) enough to fill it back up. The whole thing is mess-free, and almost hands-off.

My ATO is tied directly to my RODI system, using a float valve mounted in my sump. Not the fanciest solution, but it works - as long as my skimmer doesn't go nuts.

There's no on/off strain on my RODI because I have a 3G tank on it, any top-off water comes from that without the RODI switching on (I can tell when it's on cause I can see water flowing through the DI cartridge). The auto-shut-off valve on the filter doesn't kick on until I've drained about a half from the 3G tank.

I have a float-valve on my 45g resevoir too, so it refills automatically whenever I do a PWC. A tiny bit evaporates I'm sure, cause I've got a pump in there circulating water to keep PH up, and to mix salt, but again, any water comes out of my 3G holding tank.

Basically, it's completely hands-off for ATO's, and a 10 minute job for PWC's every two weeks.

It's worth replacing an RO cartridge more frequently if this method is wearing on it more, to not have to monitor water levels, or resevoir levels.

Of course, I'm coming from doing it by hand, with buckets of old water, and buckets of new water, in front of the tank, for a year. Anything would seem better than that
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180G build thread

180G All-glass with dual megaflows in a custom stand
AquaC EV-180 skimmer
250 pounds LR
160 pounds aragonite
Custom acrylic sump from GlassCages.com
2xPCX-40 return pumps
2x250MH 14K, 2x175MH 14K - PFO lighting, 2x65W PC
No-name 36W UV
Water General 125GPH RO/DI
Filstar XP3
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