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Old 01-11-2015, 01:06 PM   #11
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My main concern is the level of certainty which brings us back to the original post lol. Just needed to make sure I understood the question.


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Old 01-11-2015, 02:08 PM   #12
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My main concern is the level of certainty which brings us back to the original post lol. Just needed to make sure I understood the question.


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I'm thinking at this point it's more effective to just use a drop checker which would negate anything related to buffering in the tank. At this point I just need to know a number for co2 to be at so I can make a reference solution to match
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:56 PM   #13
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Sounds like a bit of a faff. Better to be safe than sorry though. What is the co2 for in marine setup?


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Old 01-11-2015, 06:02 PM   #14
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Sounds like a bit of a faff. Better to be safe than sorry though. What is the co2 for in marine setup?


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I am adding a fairly tight fitting lid on my pico tank mainly to keep the salt water from splashing on the DIY fixture I am going to be adding in. Secondarily to cut down on evaporation. I want to monitor the co2 levels to make sure I am not going to suffocate any of the livestock.
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Old 01-11-2015, 06:32 PM   #15
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I am adding a fairly tight fitting lid on my pico tank mainly to keep the salt water from splashing on the DIY fixture I am going to be adding in. Secondarily to cut down on evaporation. I want to monitor the co2 levels to make sure I am not going to suffocate any of the livestock.

Can you not clip on a fine mesh that would stop splashing and still allow gas to pass through. I'm sure you could make something sturdy?


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Old 01-11-2015, 06:34 PM   #16
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http://www.simplyaquaria.co.uk/diy-tank-cover.html


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Old 01-11-2015, 06:36 PM   #17
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Can you not clip on a fine mesh that would stop splashing and still allow gas to pass through. I'm sure you could make something sturdy?


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If it were fresh water I wouldn't worry about it as much but the salt is soo corrosive. The nature of the cover of the aquarium makes it so I can't really cover the LEDs with anything. Also, with the air being dry the tank is evaporating soo much water that in the matter of 12 - 24 hours or so the water is approaching the minimum level for the tank to still function.
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Old 01-11-2015, 07:14 PM   #18
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If it were fresh water I wouldn't worry about it as much but the salt is soo corrosive. The nature of the cover of the aquarium makes it so I can't really cover the LEDs with anything. Also, with the air being dry the tank is evaporating soo much water that in the matter of 12 - 24 hours or so the water is approaching the minimum level for the tank to still function.

That's insane! Drip counter it is then.


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Old 01-11-2015, 07:24 PM   #19
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I've found that a phosphate buffer is throwing off the calculation (it seems). Also other acids from driftwood can throw it out. I'd assume for SW these wouldn't be a problem?

I've read some arguments on other forums that said the chart was +/- 20% accuracy. Unfortunately didn't keep the link as had a stiff drink after reading through it.
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Old 01-11-2015, 10:10 PM   #20
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Testing CO2 in salt water tank is not recommended. Your readings will be meaningless since pH level is in the higher level than planted fresh water tank.
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