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Old 08-23-2014, 03:18 PM   #31
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Constant cyano-- please help

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Ok. I have RapidLed 5watt, 20 bulbs. Change normally 4-15 gallons of water every 5-8 days. Always blow off everything before cleaning. Of course today, I changed 19 gallons of water in a 28 gallon tank.


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I'm a RapidLED distributor. Onyx fixture? I think it's a 3 watt LED, but I'll check. Regardless it's plenty of light for your aquarium.


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Old 08-23-2014, 05:00 PM   #32
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It is RapidLed, and my husband said he got the 5watt, with the Storm attachment.


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Old 08-23-2014, 10:14 PM   #33
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Hi, Gregcoyote. Were you able to determine the RapidLED unit I have? I only go with what my husband says as he ordered it, adjusted it the way he wanted, changed a few things and basically installed it himself. Honestly, I don't even remember reading the paperwork, as we received the unit about three months ago and it took two months to build and customize the way he wanted it. So, you will probably know better than me.
I was gone all day and got home just before sunset, and I have a "peppering" of cyano on the substrate.


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Old 08-24-2014, 01:26 AM   #34
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Nitrite of 30 ppb is equal to 0.03 ppm which may raise concern. I'm not sure how old your tank is but it is a sign that your nitrification bacteria is overwhelmed or not enough. The reason perhaps is because you have removed about half of your substrate and covered them with new ones. Raising your alk to at lest 9 dkH could help slow down those unwanted algae. As mentioned blue light and cut down time would surely help. Overfeeding and the kind of food can also be the cause. Try the pellets and stop frozen food while still in the process of getting rid of algae.
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:40 PM   #35
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I will try your suggestion and increase my blues. I've never heard of feeding pellets instead of frozen, but I'll try that, too. The tank is a little over two years old. I have asked several times how to raise my alk. I will not dose conventional chemicals because I do not want to fight calcium and pH. I have researched the issue and believe that baking soda is my best option, however the amount is 2.7 tsp per gallon of top off. That's going to take forever. I did go ahead and do that but, of course, alk has remained the same because I don't need to top off often. Your suggestions? And thanks for all of them.


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Old 08-24-2014, 01:27 PM   #36
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Detectable ammonia and nitrite would be my first concern. Definitely raise the alk for the sake of the corals, but I don't think that's going to do the job for the cyano. I would sort out the nutrient level.
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:33 PM   #37
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Ok. Will obviously take care of that. Two water changes this week of 10 gallons each time. I will also try to figure out if my Nass snails died under the substrate. Could be causing the problem. Everything else is accounted for. And I will retest nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and phosphate. Never hurts to verify.


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Old 08-24-2014, 02:59 PM   #38
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Constant cyano-- please help

The tests can be misleading. The algae absorbs the nutrients almost immediately, giving a false impression that nutrients are low. To reduce them, you need to limit their creation ( feeding) and maximize their export. Water changes and/or materials like GFO will start to starve the algae. Algae is super efficient at absorbing these organic wastes, that's why ATS is so efficient.


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Old 08-24-2014, 03:35 PM   #39
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I have asked several times how to raise my alk. I will not dose conventional chemicals because I do not want to fight calcium and pH. I have researched the issue and believe that baking soda is my best option, however the amount is 2.7 tsp per gallon of top off. That's going to take forever. I did go ahead and do that but, of course, alk has remained the same because I don't need to top off often. Your suggestions? And thanks for all of them.


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Im a little confused about your statement of not wanting to use conventional chemicals to avoid fighting pH and calc, but using baking soda instead.

If by 'conventional chemicals' you mean commercial then your missing something. Alkalinity is the measure, effectively, of bicarbonates in your tank.
Commercial additives are almost entirely sodium bicarbonates with a pH raising additive (borate). Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate with a desiccant added to keep it from clumping (Borate). The difference between the 2 is the amount of borate added. Baking soda has less and that results in a lower terminal pH level.

As for the effect on calcium, they are identical. Increasing alkalinity will lower calcium. That is simply chemistry. It really doesn't matter how you raise the Alk.


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Old 08-24-2014, 03:54 PM   #40
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All right. What I meant by conventional chemical methods was using a dose like Seachem alk/calc or alk/pH or something like that. Don't use them. Baking soda is more natural IMO. But it won't increase alk as quickly as I need at 2.7 tsp in a gallon of top off. I don't top off often enough. And yes, the research I did, did say that baking soda may affect pH. If you suggest a particular product that is not a mixture of several things that will lower pH, lower calcium and raise alk, please let me know. (Of course, that may be exactly what you're saying, but I never said I knew what I was talking about). And I didn't think you called cyano an algae so you treated it differently. I also ordered Purigen and am already using Chemi-Pure Blue. Do you think that will lower phosphates, nitrates, nitrites, etc? I've used info from "Reef Alchemy" by Randy Holmes Farley.


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