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Old 12-24-2013, 12:09 AM   #21
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That's a large water change every week, do you have any type of macro in your tank?
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:44 AM   #22
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New tank only a month old used all established rock from another tank so had a short cycle! Did large wc to start! Will start a more reasonable WC next week!
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Old 12-24-2013, 12:45 AM   #23
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What is an appropriate size WC weekly?
And how do I know if I have Macro?
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:16 AM   #24
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Macro algaes like chaeto will help control nitrates and phosphates. You can normally find it at your lfs or you can buy different macros from live-plants.com. As far as water changes go, you just have to keep testing your water. That is the way you control your nitrates.
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:26 PM   #25
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I have a deep sand bed. I also have a good clean up crew. Haven't done a water change in over a year. O nitrates. O phosphates.

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Old 12-31-2013, 04:32 PM   #26
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While the deep sand bed can export nitrogen compounds, the CUC really just recycles organics. They are best at retrieving small bits of food from the rocks and sand where it can get caught and decompose. But they don't reduce organic loads at all. Fun to watch.

While the deep,sand bed is a tried and true technology, it doesn't fit everyone's system, similar to algae turf scrubbing. The tried and true live rock with skimming and water exchanges method is by far the most common way to build a successful reef. Phosphates can be reduced by controlling feeding, using RO/DI water exclusively and if still high, add some GFO or Phosguard to the sump in a mesh bag.
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregcoyote View Post
While the deep sand bed can export nitrogen compounds, the CUC really just recycles organics. They are best at retrieving small bits of food from the rocks and sand where it can get caught and decompose. But they don't reduce organic loads at all. Fun to watch.

While the deep,sand bed is a tried and true technology, it doesn't fit everyone's system, similar to algae turf scrubbing. The tried and true live rock with skimming and water exchanges method is by far the most common way to build a successful reef. Phosphates can be reduced by controlling feeding, using RO/DI water exclusively and if still high, add some GFO or Phosguard to the sump in a mesh bag.
I agree with Greg, doing water changes with RO water is the safest way to know for sure. In my opinion a combination of deep sand bed and water changes is even better and easier to manage as long as you do your research. Good luck.
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