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Old 10-22-2008, 08:58 PM   #11
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parameters comming soon, ill try to make a shelter of some sort in a little bit.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:00 PM   #12
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Also how long has he been in the tank?
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:11 PM   #13
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it was one of the first corals in the tank so maybe like 3 or 4 months.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:34 PM   #14
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just got done making my light blocker pics cummin asap along w/ parameters
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:54 PM   #15
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so i cant really get a good pic of my interesting setup so ill explain it. i stretched out a hankercheif and closed the hood while it was stretched, it stays stretched under the hood cuz its soo freekin heavy. i pulled it back little by little until it ws just blocking the light from the brain only. had to move a few corals around to get it perfect but now it pretty much is. could me leaving the lights on too long be a problem too. i turn them on when i get up around 6:30 and turn them off before i go to bed, around 10:00-1:00. bad correct? should i turn them on at like 2:30 to 11 or so? was this the root of my problem w/ the brain, i feel so dumb not checking if this was ok.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:06 PM   #16
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A decent light cycle for halides is around 8-10hrs on. Actinics should come on about an hour before halides turn on and remain on an hour after halides turn off. I cannot picture your canopy, but as long as it is slightly shaded and not inhibiting water flow you should be fine. This will be a decent test to see if it reacts positively or continues to bleach.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:09 PM   #17
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Most people keep about a 8-10 hour photo period and adjust it depending on if they start having algae problems. In an article i read most natural reefs receive between 11-13 hours of sunlight. Not sure how this effects your brain but that should give you a general idea/ place to start.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Innovator View Post
A decent light cycle for halides is around 8-10hrs on. Actinics should come on about an hour before halides turn on and remain on an hour after halides turn off. I cannot picture your canopy, but as long as it is slightly shaded and not inhibiting water flow you should be fine. This will be a decent test to see if it reacts positively or continues to bleach.
would the 4 led's be my actinics? i just keep the led's on 24/7 and turn the halides on and off whenever i wake up/go to bed. also i know that the heat of the halides screw me up all the time too. i really need a fan but all of the ones that go on the back in my tight space are like 40 bucks. and im not too sure where to exactly place he fans. ill try as hard as i can to find one.
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:37 AM   #19
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I recently built a fan setup for my Nanocube HQI that also has 64w actinics added on. I'll try to get a pic on here for you, but it consists of 4 spare computer fans (like 1.5" DC fans) hooked to an AC convertor. It cost almost nothing to build, fits hidden under the hood, and actually cools too good. It comes on with the halides since the actinics create little heat. I keep my tank at 78.5 and with all 4 fans running with the MH on I've seen it dip to near 77.

And no, your LED's are not actinics.
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Old 10-23-2008, 03:08 PM   #20
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Had the wife e-mail a picture and it doesn't really show what I wanted. This is 4, 40mm (I think), 3000RPM DC computer fans. Still not sure how they will last but Nanotuners sell the exact one for their upgrade kits and they've done great so far. I know the cords look bad but I'm not running it under the hood until I decide how many fans I need (certainly not 4....LOL). Like I said, I have (2) 100w heaters set to 78.5-79 and these buggers still drop me to around 77 even when room temp is above 78.

You can't see the fans unless you open the feeding hatch (which I leave open). And the fans take up way less room than the camera angle depicts. I still feed, net, and even re-arrange with the monster tweezers with the fans in-place. The fans are zip-tied to a plastic bracket that is then velcroed to the hood so I can remove easily (although I used industrial velcro and about need a screwdriver to pru it apart)

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