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Old 06-13-2011, 06:56 PM   #71
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Yes, I've kind of come to the conclusion that the shimmer effect creates a quick absence of light which coraline likes. I do think though a little of everything plays into it, but the shimmer effect definitely makes a difference. Coraline can be easily out competed by other algae, maybe that's why 0 nitrate and phosphate help as well. I once saw a MAJOR bloom of coraline in a tank full of hair algae just before it crashed. I think the hair algae out competed all other algae and created a zero nitrate and phosphate condition. Then coraline went crazy, but soon after the tank crashed and almost everything died. To bad they didn't have bio plastics back then.
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Old 06-13-2011, 08:38 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dabeyta3
Yes, I've kind of come to the conclusion that the shimmer effect creates a quick absence of light which coraline likes. I do think though a little of everything plays into it, but the shimmer effect definitely makes a difference. Coraline can be easily out competed by other algae, maybe that's why 0 nitrate and phosphate help as well. I once saw a MAJOR bloom of coraline in a tank full of hair algae just before it crashed. I think the hair algae out competed all other algae and created a zero nitrate and phosphate condition. Then coraline went crazy, but soon after the tank crashed and almost everything died. To bad they didn't have bio plastics back then.
Being I'n reefkeeping now about ten years and I don't know what bio plastics are? Like a bio ball or something like that... Please fill me in
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Old 06-13-2011, 08:57 PM   #73
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http://www.aquacave.com/two-little-f...lets-3247.html


They are extremely powerful pure carbon little polymer pellets. You run them in a phosban reactor with special screens. I thought they were a gimmick but I couldn't have been more wrong. They do exactly what they say, and nitrate and phosphate will quickly be brought to zero, and stay there. Being pure carbon, they culture the bacteria which eliminates Nitrates and phosphates. And boy do they. Just use far less then recommended, or you will have a major bacteria bloom. Kind of like vodka, just a controlled more effective way to culture bacteria.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:24 PM   #74
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Looks like I need to make another purchase. Thanks so much I will certainly give them a try any hints on a reactor? I have a 150 gal. With a 40 gal sump... And thanks!
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:27 PM   #75
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They are extremely potent. After quite a bit of trial and error, I found using the smallest size phosban reactor, plastic screens instead of black sponges, and probably a cup or so of npx bioplastics. Water flow fast enough to just churn them a tiny bit (not to much or you'll fill your tank with bacteria) and a couple days. You will almost for sure get a bacterial bloom, but it will go away in a couple days. Just don't use to much.......like I originally did. Oh and I have a 90 gallon tank. When I used the recommended amount, I couldn't get rid of the bacterial bloom. My local fish store sells everything, and they swear by them as well.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:34 PM   #76
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Thanks so much my friend.. I'm gonna check out some eBay right now... I'll update you on what I actually get.
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:39 PM   #77
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Ack! We are going to need a coralline intervention. The last photo is the front of the sump. It's even growing inside the protein skimmer. We have to scrape it off the front glass once a week when we do our PWC. lol
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Old 08-11-2011, 02:41 PM   #78
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They guy at my lfs said when your halides start to grow coraline algae then its time to change the bulbs
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Old 08-11-2011, 02:42 PM   #79
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We don't run halides.
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Old 08-11-2011, 02:57 PM   #80
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my pencil urchin does a good job of eating coraline algea, but I still have to use a razorblade on the glass
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