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Old 11-08-2004, 11:19 PM   #1
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Cyano

How do you get rid of this stuff. I only have a little bit but i dont want it to get out of hand. Will cutting back on the lighting help to clear it up.
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29gal.
65W Accentic 65W Daylight PC
Aquaclear 150 HOB Filter (soon to be upgraded to a 15gal refugeum)
Seaclone 100 Protein Skimmer
20 lbs Live Sand ~2in SB
35 lbs Live Rock ~ (wanting to have about 45lbs when done)
1 yellow watchman goby
1 saddle back clown that hosts my condy
1 cleaner shrimp
1 peppermint shrimp
hermits and snails
2 emerald crabs

Corals
Devils Finger Leather
Closed Brain Coral
Starburst polyps (2 colors)
Yellow Colony Polyps
Pink and silver zoos
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Old 11-08-2004, 11:27 PM   #2
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Welcome to the red slime club! Test your water for phosphates. Are your lights on too long? Overfeeding? Overstocked? Are you doing your water changes? Are your bulbs old? Are you using either RO/DI water? Don't bother with the red slime killer additives for your tank, all they do is temporarily kill it off and since you never found the root cause of it, it will return and with a vengence!!! I'm in the same boat as you right now and I still have'nt solved my problem.
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Old 11-08-2004, 11:28 PM   #3
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NO! Do not do that! That will make the problem worse IMO. Phosphates and nitrates are the nutrients that fuels it, control them and you won't have to cut back on lighting. What are your nitrate and phosphate levels?
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Alex n Mary

150 gallon, 30g fuge/sump, 4.5 watt/gal VHO Lighting, 4" sand bed, 290 lbs LR, CDX-3 Nitrate/Phosphate filter

Female Naso "Isabell" or "Izzy", Emperor Angelfish, Flame Angel, Red Sea Sailfin tang "Bambi", Maroon Clown "Nani", 5 Chromis, 1 Aglae Blenny "Bengi" , Yellow Watchman Goby, pr of Banggai Cardinals, Lyretail Anthia, Six Line Wrasse

1 cleaner shrimp, Coral Banded Shrimp, lettuce nudibranch, 1 sand sifter stars, 1 tiny red brittle star "red", 1 tiny red and white banded serpent star, 2 tiny banded serpent stars, small orange Linkia starfish, assorted hermits and snails. Corals: star polyps, A ton of different types of mushrooms, yellow zooanthids, brown-orangish and light blue paly's, orange ricordia.

90g RR, W/D, 120 lb's LR SF eel, pygmy angel, pr sebae clownfish, 4 chromis. Star Polyps & Mushrooms
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:46 PM   #4
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my nitrates are at zero. I dont have a phosphates test so i dont know what they are. Also i saw RO, ozonated water at kroger. Would this work.

How long should i run my lights. I have 65 watts of accentic and 65 whats of daylight. It is in a 30 gal. I have been running the acenting for about 14 hrs a day and the daylight for only about 8. Is this enough.
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No man is so foolish that he may sometimes give another good council, and no man so wise that he may not easily err if he takes no other councel than his own. He that is taught only by himself has a fool for a master. --- Hunter S. Thompson

29gal.
65W Accentic 65W Daylight PC
Aquaclear 150 HOB Filter (soon to be upgraded to a 15gal refugeum)
Seaclone 100 Protein Skimmer
20 lbs Live Sand ~2in SB
35 lbs Live Rock ~ (wanting to have about 45lbs when done)
1 yellow watchman goby
1 saddle back clown that hosts my condy
1 cleaner shrimp
1 peppermint shrimp
hermits and snails
2 emerald crabs

Corals
Devils Finger Leather
Closed Brain Coral
Starburst polyps (2 colors)
Yellow Colony Polyps
Pink and silver zoos
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Old 11-09-2004, 05:38 PM   #5
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ya thats fine, you can even cut back an hour or two, but do not make drastic changes with your lights, this may cause die off (of the algea) which will also feed it more nutrients to grow. At least that is how it was explained to me. Get a phoshate test. If you can find the source of the algea you are ahead of the game . Also, in the meantime, Garf sells a mean clean up crew. I haven't had to clean my tank in I don't know how long. I only bought half of what they said to buy and they are still doing a heck of a job! http://www.garf.org/main.html
YES RO water is great stuff, but try to get the kind that is RO/DI because the distilled part of it is what takes the phosphates out and the RO takes out everything else . Does your LFS sell it? They might have a better deal for you provided you bring your own buckets
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Alex n Mary

150 gallon, 30g fuge/sump, 4.5 watt/gal VHO Lighting, 4" sand bed, 290 lbs LR, CDX-3 Nitrate/Phosphate filter

Female Naso "Isabell" or "Izzy", Emperor Angelfish, Flame Angel, Red Sea Sailfin tang "Bambi", Maroon Clown "Nani", 5 Chromis, 1 Aglae Blenny "Bengi" , Yellow Watchman Goby, pr of Banggai Cardinals, Lyretail Anthia, Six Line Wrasse

1 cleaner shrimp, Coral Banded Shrimp, lettuce nudibranch, 1 sand sifter stars, 1 tiny red brittle star "red", 1 tiny red and white banded serpent star, 2 tiny banded serpent stars, small orange Linkia starfish, assorted hermits and snails. Corals: star polyps, A ton of different types of mushrooms, yellow zooanthids, brown-orangish and light blue paly's, orange ricordia.

90g RR, W/D, 120 lb's LR SF eel, pygmy angel, pr sebae clownfish, 4 chromis. Star Polyps & Mushrooms
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Old 11-09-2004, 06:30 PM   #6
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Thanks i will look into that.
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No man is so foolish that he may sometimes give another good council, and no man so wise that he may not easily err if he takes no other councel than his own. He that is taught only by himself has a fool for a master. --- Hunter S. Thompson

29gal.
65W Accentic 65W Daylight PC
Aquaclear 150 HOB Filter (soon to be upgraded to a 15gal refugeum)
Seaclone 100 Protein Skimmer
20 lbs Live Sand ~2in SB
35 lbs Live Rock ~ (wanting to have about 45lbs when done)
1 yellow watchman goby
1 saddle back clown that hosts my condy
1 cleaner shrimp
1 peppermint shrimp
hermits and snails
2 emerald crabs

Corals
Devils Finger Leather
Closed Brain Coral
Starburst polyps (2 colors)
Yellow Colony Polyps
Pink and silver zoos
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Old 11-09-2004, 08:03 PM   #7
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DI stands for deionized not distilled, and RO water can take out most if not all phosphates.
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Old 11-09-2004, 08:31 PM   #8
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Ya, thats what I meant . With the RO takeing out the phosphates I was told several times on this site that if you had a phosphate reading to replace the DI part of it?!
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Alex n Mary

150 gallon, 30g fuge/sump, 4.5 watt/gal VHO Lighting, 4" sand bed, 290 lbs LR, CDX-3 Nitrate/Phosphate filter

Female Naso "Isabell" or "Izzy", Emperor Angelfish, Flame Angel, Red Sea Sailfin tang "Bambi", Maroon Clown "Nani", 5 Chromis, 1 Aglae Blenny "Bengi" , Yellow Watchman Goby, pr of Banggai Cardinals, Lyretail Anthia, Six Line Wrasse

1 cleaner shrimp, Coral Banded Shrimp, lettuce nudibranch, 1 sand sifter stars, 1 tiny red brittle star "red", 1 tiny red and white banded serpent star, 2 tiny banded serpent stars, small orange Linkia starfish, assorted hermits and snails. Corals: star polyps, A ton of different types of mushrooms, yellow zooanthids, brown-orangish and light blue paly's, orange ricordia.

90g RR, W/D, 120 lb's LR SF eel, pygmy angel, pr sebae clownfish, 4 chromis. Star Polyps & Mushrooms
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Old 11-09-2004, 08:33 PM   #9
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What exactly are you infering w/ the light bulb anyway?
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Alex n Mary

150 gallon, 30g fuge/sump, 4.5 watt/gal VHO Lighting, 4" sand bed, 290 lbs LR, CDX-3 Nitrate/Phosphate filter

Female Naso "Isabell" or "Izzy", Emperor Angelfish, Flame Angel, Red Sea Sailfin tang "Bambi", Maroon Clown "Nani", 5 Chromis, 1 Aglae Blenny "Bengi" , Yellow Watchman Goby, pr of Banggai Cardinals, Lyretail Anthia, Six Line Wrasse

1 cleaner shrimp, Coral Banded Shrimp, lettuce nudibranch, 1 sand sifter stars, 1 tiny red brittle star "red", 1 tiny red and white banded serpent star, 2 tiny banded serpent stars, small orange Linkia starfish, assorted hermits and snails. Corals: star polyps, A ton of different types of mushrooms, yellow zooanthids, brown-orangish and light blue paly's, orange ricordia.

90g RR, W/D, 120 lb's LR SF eel, pygmy angel, pr sebae clownfish, 4 chromis. Star Polyps & Mushrooms
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Old 11-09-2004, 09:35 PM   #10
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Clownin,
yes, if your R/O tests positive for phosphates, the DI filter should be replaced. As I understand it, the R/O membrane removes the hardness, and the DI is a finer, polishing type filter that removes the phosphates.
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