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Old 06-14-2005, 09:05 PM   #1
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Cyano? (pic)

I know this has been asked probably a billion times so I'll make it a billion and one...

Is the pic below cyano? I'm guessing it is, I only have RO water and I don't have a phosphate test kit. It started showing up before I added any fish in the tank so am I correct in assuming my phosphates are high?
BTW, the thing on the right is a fake coral my kids gave me and is naturally that color - my concern is whats on the sand.

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Old 06-14-2005, 09:07 PM   #2
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Looks like it...

It seems like just as many people with RO water have probs with cyano as the people that use city water.

Thats the main reason I wanted to hold back from city water, but now that it seems like RO has just as many probs Im sticking with tap water (not to mention nowhere to put a RO setup)
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:09 PM   #3
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Oh yeah, it's very heavy. A gravel vac won't even suck it up - well it does but then it just falls back down in broken pieces.
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:13 PM   #4
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Well I tried to cut corners on costs and just got the RO. DI would have been another $40 or so. Now I'll have to add it for like $60. RO alone will not remove phosphates, thats what the DI does. Live and learn....
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Old 06-14-2005, 09:21 PM   #5
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Re: Cyano? (pic)

Quote:
Originally Posted by havefun
I know this has been asked probably a billion times so I'll make it a billion and one...

Is the pic below cyano? I'm guessing it is, I only have RO water and I don't have a phosphate test kit. It started showing up before I added any fish in the tank so am I correct in assuming my phosphates are high?
BTW, the thing on the right is a fake coral my kids gave me and is naturally that color - my concern is whats on the sand.

TIA

Yep, it is cyano. RO water helps but it's a cure all. You'll need to get a test kit. Also, adding water flow to the area may help to keep it from settling.
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Old 06-15-2005, 08:23 AM   #6
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Err my least favorite stuff, A syphon will work just dont use the big extention use the direct hose it will suck it up. As for getting rid of it I would suggest more water flow and chemi-clean for a quick cure. And test for phospahtes if they are up they sell numerous products to lower them.
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Old 06-15-2005, 08:36 AM   #7
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How about some info on the tank... Size, lights etc..
Excess nutrients, low flow and bad light spectrium are factors that can bring on cyno. Not all need to be present for it to show up.
First thing is a test kit for PO4 then a DI unit for the RO. You can pick up a housing on the internet pretty cheap, buckeyefieldsupply.com.
Cyno is a PIA and adding chemicals is a quick fix and not the answer IMO. You need to address the problem and it will go away after you do. Sounds like you know what needs to be done its just spending the $$ to get it done. Good luck. I just battled it for months and only after syphoning it out many many time and upping my flow did it go away.
Also if you get a PO4 test kit and it reads 0 it is most likely still there its just the cyno is using it up and keeping it low enough that these test kits don't pick it up. Test you make up water and see if its in there..
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Old 06-15-2005, 09:22 AM   #8
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Agree with Fluff, definitely cyano.

RO prevents phosphates from being introduced during water changes (assuming your salt mix is phosphate free). It doesn't help if you're over-feeding, have a high bio-load, or don't do frequent enough water changes.

I came to SW from the FW planted tank niche of the hobby...so when I learned that phosphates caused cyano, I assumed 'high phosphates' meant 2ppm or more.
Wrong.
0.1ppm is more than enough for cyano to bloom.

Get yourself a test kit, and see what your levels are. Either SeaChem or Salifert brand. I would test your RO water too, especially if you get it from a grocery store...they likely need to change filters and membranes if the RO tests positive for phosphates.

Skimmers can help reduce phosphates, as can adding macro algae to a sump or fuge (and even a few types can go in the display tank). Good luck
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Old 06-15-2005, 10:47 AM   #9
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Well I tried to cut corners on costs and just got the RO. DI would have been another $40 or so.
DI is your answer to removing PO4 from the source water. Worth the extra $40. You can actually by DI add-ons for your RO unit. That being said, PO4 is also introduced into your tank from the foods you feed. Flake foods and frozen foods that are not properly thawed and rinsed prior to going in the main are big contributors to PO4.
You have tow goals here...1) to remove the exsisting cyno from the tank and 2) to identify the source of the cyno and eliminating it.
Go get a PO4 test kit and test both your tank water and source water. If you feed frozen foods, thaw the cubes first and then rinse the food in RO water. Manually remove what you can via a siphon and begin doing PWC of 15-20% every 4-5days using RO/DI water. There is a product called Chemi-Clean by Boyd. It works well against cyno. I do not usually recommend adding chemicals to the water but this is one exception. Remove any GAC and turn off the skimmer while treating. Just remember, it will NOT fix the problem. If you do not correct the source it will just keep coming back. Add more flow to your tank, cyno has a bigger problem getting a hold in hagh flow areas.
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:46 AM   #10
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Thanks Lando for clarifying my post. I only get RO/DI water, and make the mistake of assuming others do too, and that others know that the DI stage is what removes PO4.
I gotta stop assuming stuff!
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