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Old 02-28-2006, 03:23 PM   #21
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along w/ all the above cures try leaving the lights off for a few weeks

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Old 02-28-2006, 03:40 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by robertfah
Where on earth did you get that many for so cheap?

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Old 02-28-2006, 03:43 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by austinsdad
Just hoping they/most don't die from starvation in such a young tank.
My tank is 1.5 years old. I didn't think it was still that young. Some are in the lighted refugium as well.
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Old 02-28-2006, 03:47 PM   #24
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Main cause if this bacterial infection is lack of total dissolved Oxygen levels in the water . Add air stones to the sump or tank and add power heads to push the new oxygenated water into the dead areas. No clean up crews will eat this bacteria.
It's really a bacteria that requires a anaerobic area and what you see as the red fuzzy looking stuff is just a by product of the Cyano's and its used by the bacteria to isolate its self from oxygenated water. A bacterial cocoon if you will. Seems all these new people into the hobby in the last 15 yrs seem to never have or use air stones in the sumps.
Also a good skimmer will also help to remove Doc's that can cause the anaerobic conditions as a film type coating of Doc's as well.
And also feeding a lot of frozen Phosphates rich froze foods and let to rot can and will kick start it. But Cyans is not a Algae its a bacteria and antibiotic will also eradicate it it.Good luck
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:13 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Reefer Guy
. But Cyans is not a Algae its a bacteria and antibiotic will also eradicate it it.Good luck
It is not recommended to use antibiotics to treat cyanobacter outbreaks. The adverse effects of this can be long-lasting and a heck of a bigger problem that the cyano itself. Here are just a couple excerpts that comment on this.
The first is from algone.com

Cyanobacteria are often treated with antibiotics, addressing the symptom rather then the cause. Antibiotics are not very selective in what bacteria get killed. Cyano is gram negative (thin cell wall) in much the same way as the beneficial bacteria are. Many bacteria in fresh- and saltwater, especially the ones symbiotic with live rock and sand, are gram negative. All of the bacteria will be affected, either being killed or severely damaged. In consequence their ability to reproduce will also be negatively effected. The bacterial balance is delicate and any disturbance is likely to be responsible for larger problems and fatalities i.e. ammonia spikes, cloudy oxygen-depriving water.

Another consideration when using antibiotics is that bacteria will become increasingly resistant. This resistance may make the antibiotic useless if used for treating fish diseases.

Of course none of the contributing factors causing the cyano have been resolved by using antibiotics.

This next one is from advancedaquarist online magazine that was covering the basics of filtration and hit on using antibiotics in the aquarium.

# Do not add any sort of antibiotics directly to the reef. Unfortunately, the medications that you would use to treat infected fish cannot distinguish between the pathogenic bacteria and the nitrifying bacteria. Therefore, always treat infected fish in a separate hospital tank.
# Also it is important to resist the urge to treat cyanobacterial blooms with these medications as well. It is true that these “slime algaes” will respond to treatment with antibiotics such as erythromycin. However, you could easily do more harm than good if you end up killing off your beneficial bacterial population in the process.
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:27 PM   #26
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Hmmm interesting comments.....I definately wasn't going to treat my main tank with anything. I've learn that lesson from Kick Ich and it not doing anything but pollute my tank after 2 weeks.

I just moved the PH's to the side of the tank so they are facing opposite of each other and one is high on the tank and the other is a little lower, but pointing the flow towards the bottom. I'm hoping that may help a bit. I've been thinking about purchasing a Phosban Reactor. They seem pretty cheap (under 50 bucks) and benificial to the tank. Is something like that suitable in a reef tank as well? I've never done a reef tank, so I know there are more things involved and didn't know if it would be ok in a reef setup.
90g Reef
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Old 02-28-2006, 09:34 PM   #27
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In my research, these quick fixes are temporary at best. Cyanobacteria can adjust itself over time to accept these chemicals so that it is immune to them. If I can find the article, I'll post it. The best way to beat cyano is doing extra water changes. Though, I agree your cleanup crew isn't nearly big enough for a tank that size and could be adding to your issues.

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