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Old 06-21-2005, 03:48 PM   #21
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I don't have a TDS meter. I've just been running on the assumption that my RO/DI system was working well because it was still well below it's expected life. I'll pick one up tomorrow and see what it says. I have a flush kit and I think I've taken good care of my RO membrane.
I have a kent RO system too (w/ a flush kit), and I was surprised by the TDS numbers. My RO membrane is about a year and a half old. It is only taking tap water down to 60 from 280. The instructions say it has a 3-5 year membrane life, but from some others post I've read and my experience, I don't think thats realistic in most cases.
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Old 06-21-2005, 07:16 PM   #22
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My RO membrane is about a year and a half old. It is only taking tap water down to 60 from 280.
What did you do about this?...or are you just accepting that 60 is as good as you can do?

As promised, I just got my TDS meter. I haven't calibrated it, so maybe these readings are insane...but my tap water reads 17...and my RO/DI water is zero.

It would appear that clean water isn't likely to be my problem.
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Old 06-21-2005, 08:59 PM   #23
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What did you do about this?...or are you just accepting that 60 is as good as you can do?
I run a DI after the RO that takes the water down to 0 TDS. It just exhaust the DI resin faster for now. I use the color changing resin so I can look at it and see if I should test TDS. I just got a TDS meter recently myself, after having a bit of a cyano issue. FWIW, after the RO stage there should be a ten fold decrease(or more) in the TDS of the tap water. If not then it's time for a new membrane.(Ex. Tap water is 300, RO should be 30 or less before going to the DI)
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I haven't calibrated it, so maybe these readings are insane...but my tap water reads 17...
I would have to doubt the accuracy of that test. Your tap water is as good as or better than bottled "spring" water if that's true 8O . When you get the meter calibrated post your results if you would, I'd like to see them.
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Old 06-21-2005, 09:28 PM   #24
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I just got some feedback from local reefers in my area and they confirm that we have pretty good water in these parts. My TDS readings are in line with theirs. 17 coming in...0 going out.

So...water isn't my problem. So much for that idea.
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Old 06-21-2005, 09:52 PM   #25
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Wow! That is good water. Have you tested for po4 levels in the tank and coming straight out of the RO/DI? That ended up being ONE of my problems-po4 even after the DI stage for some reason. I replaced my DI resin and got the TDS meter. The cyano is alot better, but still not completely gone ...YET! One thing I have noticed is temp. fluctuations seem to bring it out in my tank.
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Old 06-21-2005, 09:59 PM   #26
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po4 levels in the tank and coming straight out of the RO/DI?
FWIW, even though po4 was getting past my old DI resin, TDS were still only 1-2.
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Old 06-21-2005, 11:42 PM   #27
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I can't detect any PO4 in my water or my tank. I've heard that the test kits can't detect certain forms, so I've been running some phosphate removers, just in case.

I've also heard that P04 is a culprit with algae problems...but this is cyano. I'm not sure that cyano is driven by the same thing.
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Old 06-22-2005, 12:57 AM   #28
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I've also heard that P04 is a culprit with algae problems...but this is cyano. I'm not sure that cyano is driven by the same thing.
Cyano is driven by light, inorganic compounds ie. phosphate, nitrate, etc., excessive DOC's, and low oxygen levels as well. That is why it's so darn tough.
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I can't detect any PO4 in my water or my tank. I've heard that the test kits can't detect certain forms, so I've been running some phosphate removers, just in case.
Most likely your tank has established a balance. Although there is an undetectable amount of PO4 in the water, allot of it(and/or other nutrients) is tied up in the cyano itself. That is why removing as much cyano as possible from the tank is the first step in any attack plan. When you see an increase in cyano, you know you've been adding more of what is fueling it. Some more questions for you-Do you use a skimmer? Do you add any additives? What type of foods are you feeding? Nitrates? What's the tank turn over per hour? What salt mix(just curious)?
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Old 06-29-2005, 12:18 PM   #29
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just to follow up on this. I went and got red slime removal and even thought is was $15 for a lil tube of powder, I used only half the amount and within 48 hrs no more red slime!!!!!!
SO FAR SO GOOD
plus i have alot more left in case i need it
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:28 PM   #30
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I can't detect any PO4 in my water or my tank
keep in mind, this does not mean it is not in your tank. It could be enough to fuel a cyno out-break. As the bacteria feeds on the PO4 it removes it from the water. Could be just enough to keep the cyno going while not reading in the tank water. First, I would try a new test kit. Evaluate your feeding proceedures. This is a common way for PO4 to be introduced into the tank. Products like Red Slime Remover and Chemi-Cleamn work well for removing exsisitng Cyno from the tank. They are NOT a cure for it. If the underly cause is not identified and corrected the cyno will just keep coming back. These products are only band-aids. You may want to consider replacing your DI resin and membrane as a last resort.
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