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Old 06-30-2005, 06:18 PM   #11
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as much as i would love to rip into these statements, i wont...
Please do. Enlighten us Pearsont74.
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Allows beneficial bacteria to get to the area and its difficult for the stuff to grow in high flow.
Cyano bacteria feeds off MANY things. Light, inorganics ie. nitrate, PO4, and organic compounds ie-CO2. Obviously areas w/ low flow have low oxygen levels and increased CO2 levels. Viola! Using chemicals is like placing a band aid on a stab wound. You also run the risk of killing beneficial bacteria as well and causing a tank crash. Beating cyano can be done, but first you must understand the processes it involves(I'm still learning the finer points myself). This is where "the men are separated from the boys" IMO.
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Old 06-30-2005, 06:26 PM   #12
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The pure factor of cyano development in my tank can be blamed soley on temperature swings......
That may be what triggers it, but an underlying abundance of nutrients fuels it. There is no one "sole" cause except PO4 in most cases.
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Old 06-30-2005, 06:53 PM   #13
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Why do they say syphon it out? Well, I don't really see the point of this other than to clean your sandbed of detritus if you have a poor cleanupcrew
Cyano will bind nutrients within itself. By removing the cyano you are also removing nutrients from the tank. A great first step in a cyano attack plan.
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Why do we say check PO4? ..cuz these cause your fish to die and some say it can be attributed to cyano growth (I'm skeptical).
"only in the last five or 10 years that phosphate (PO4) levels have been viewed in a similar light. Although it’s not yet been shown to have a harmful effect on fishes, phosphate can decrease the calcification rate of corals and makes algae grow at a phenomenal rate." from www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk
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Old 06-30-2005, 08:45 PM   #14
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My only skepticism for PO4 and cyano is that it can exist in a tank and flourish when PO4 are -5000 PPM (/sarcasm).

I'm just spotting information from a fairly stable tank, and offering my personal experience as advice. My water params are perfect pH - 8.2, NO2 - 0, NO3 - <20, PO4 - 0, salinity 1.024. I'm three days into my counterattack (temp stabilization only) and almost clear. I haven't adjusted *anything* else. I'm not vacuuming it out, not doing excessive water-changes......

...you can tell me I'm wrong, but apparently I'm doing something right. 8)
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Old 06-30-2005, 08:57 PM   #15
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My only skepticism for PO4 and cyano is that it can exist in a tank and flourish when PO4 are -5000 PPM
As said, it utilizes many different energy sources, most commonly PO4 in aquaria. If it was not so **** adaptable we would not be here-literally. Earth's atmosphere would be toxic to us. Oxygen is a by product of cyano which was one of the first living things that inhabited the earth. Allowing for us to come along later.
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you can tell me I'm wrong
Well, that was not my intended goal. What I intended was to spur you on to learn some more on your own to further your knowledge. FWIW, temp fluctuations will trigger cyano. But if you take care of what fuels it, there will not be a problem.
Say in a year from now you have $100's if not $1000's worth of coral and there is a heat issue. Those coral could be in trouble fast due to being over grown and blocked from light, etc. by cyano. By eliminating the fuel source you eliminate the risk. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure
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Old 06-30-2005, 10:15 PM   #16
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My only skepticism for PO4 and cyano is that it can exist in a tank and flourish when PO4 are -5000 PPM (/sarcasm).
It is very possible that a tank may appear to have very low/no levels of PO4 and still have cyno. This is due to the cyno sucking up the nutrient and removing it from the water. There is still enough to feed the bacteria.
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Old 06-30-2005, 11:13 PM   #17
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Wow! I appreciate all the feedback and debating. I'm definitely going to add another PH in that area to improve my water flow. I just recently installed a chiller on my tank, but so far the cyano is still coming back. I realize that stable temp will not cure cyano, but hopefully it will hep prevent it. And I suppose I am going to try and siphon my live sand. I'm still a little hesitant because I've never done it before. I didn't realize that my water needed to be D/I to remove phosphates. I've been using R/O water from Wal-Mart, but I don't think it's D/I. I'll have to make sure I get the right kind.
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:54 AM   #18
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they dont sell DI water at the walmart near me, just RO water.
Have you tested for phosphates in your tank and top off water?? This post is getting long so I dont remember...
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Old 07-02-2005, 11:18 AM   #19
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I tested for phosphates in my tank and the test showed that there was some phosphate in the water. I can't remember the exact amount, but it was the lowest detectable amount on the test. I haven't tried testing my top off water, but it's probably a good idea since I haven't been using DI water. Does DI water really make that much of a difference in regard to PO4? I mean, if I switch to R/O DI water will it really keep the cyano from coming back after I remove it from the tank?
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Old 07-02-2005, 08:29 PM   #20
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If you have any detectable amount of PO4 in your tank then its enough to have cyno. You can actually have cyno with no detectable PO4 because the cyno uses it for grow so it keeps the levels low enough so our test kits can not detect it.
RO/Di is the best out there that we can get and YES it will make a difference with the cyno over time.
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