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Old 10-01-2014, 02:05 AM   #41
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Yes my rock is cured and LS. I also took about a cup of my crushed coral from my other tank and sprinkled that in my new tank.
Thank you for your reply


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Old 10-02-2014, 11:04 AM   #42
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Cured LR and LS are already full of bacteria so there is really no need to use raw shrimp. As you can see your bb are at work in no time when you put the shrimp. I presume you used RO/DI for your salt water. Otherwise, those nitrates are from your tap water and not due to cycling process. So the data for nitrite in that case would not really be a sign of complete cycling.
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Old 10-02-2014, 12:07 PM   #43
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Ok so I'll go ahead and take the shrimp out now. I didn't use tap water, I used RO/DI. I have a 13gal that we had for about 2 months before we decided to upgrade to the new 40gal tank. The 13 gal is holding our corals till this tank is cycled. I'm trying to be as patient as I can as I know this cycle can take a long time lol.


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Old 10-02-2014, 12:21 PM   #44
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Also... Can you inform me a little about lights? I want to start out with the easy corals and then try some easy SPS.
I'm debating between these three..

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=161270510426

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=251495773757

Current USA Orbit Marine Aquarium LED Light, 18 to 24-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFTK7CQ..._Z0wlub0A5YSVW


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Old 10-02-2014, 02:49 PM   #45
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If you want to get into sps I'd go with a pair of the second ones, if you want to go the t5 route I'd get a 6-8 bulb unit. The orbits are expensive fowlr lights IMHO.
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Old 10-02-2014, 04:43 PM   #46
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Ok thank you! I think for now I'll just get one of those and wait till we start getting into the sps and then purchase a second one.😊


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Old 10-02-2014, 11:42 PM   #47
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For a 40 gal tank just 1 unit of the 2nd one IMO is sufficient. You won't have the luxury of ramping with remote controller like your current one but it has been proven to support any corals. Your Orbit has only 1/4-watt LEDs versus the 3-watt of the Chinese LED fixture.
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