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Old 04-19-2008, 04:14 PM   #11
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Yep, my phosphate test is also API. I bought all the same brand since they were easy to use and seemed decent. I'll retest everything on Monday and post. I'll wait on the water change to see what you guys have to say after the new readings. Any other advice on diatoms or phosphates would be greatly appreciated. Between my kids (yes sons, I am giving you credit) and the help on the forum, I've learned a lot in the last 8 months. Thanks.
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:17 PM   #12
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Psh i want more credit then Jimbo. I'm just smarter then him.. and better looking to but that has nothing to do with this. haha
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:15 PM   #13
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If your so much smarter then me you must obviously know that you used the wrong to, its too. It's quite obvious who the better looking son is so there really is no need to debate such things. (It's me...)
As for the actual posting business, I am going to try and take a look at her tank this week at some point to make sure there is nothing she is missing, a second opinion always helps. Our LFS also said dry food is packed with phosphates, could this be contributing?
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Old 04-20-2008, 12:27 PM   #14
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Both frozen and flake are known to contain phosphates.
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Old 04-20-2008, 02:35 PM   #15
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Does rinsing or soaking the frozen help control the phosphate issue? I assume you can't rinse the pellets.
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Old 04-20-2008, 02:44 PM   #16
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Pellet food isn't as bad as frozen or flake. Thaw your frozen food and then rinse it in RO/DI water if you can and then feed the tank. I like to add garlic to my frozen food at least 2 times a week.

Even if you are testing 0 for phosphates you could still have them in the tank. Usually if you have algae growing in the tank phosphates wont show up on test results. The algae eats them up and grows from them.
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Old 04-20-2008, 02:51 PM   #17
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I'll try rinsing as you suggest. I haven't been doing the garlic. I buy some today. Brian uses it at home. I'm seriously considering having the boys looking at the possibility of plumbing my 5 gallon tank as a sump and adding macroalgae for better control. I like the idea of a more natural approach. That may be their summer project and payback for the fish/coral "loans."
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:06 AM   #18
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Diatoms feed on silicate and light. There is no real accurate test for silicates, but there aren't too many sources. As mentioned it will burn itself out. That is as long as you aren't adding more silicates (but even then, you can't add enough to fuel an outbreak, you would need a constant source)

Also, a PH of 7.4 seems a bit low. What's your Alk at?
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Old 04-22-2008, 02:20 PM   #19
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Good catch on the PH Wizzard. That is on the low side.

This is a biocube and they have closed tops I wonder if the O2 exchange is causing the lower PH.
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Old 04-22-2008, 11:56 PM   #20
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Current levels as of this afternoon:

calcium - 420
nitrate - 10
phosphate - 0
ph - 8.2

I checked the phosphate on the water that I will use to do a pwc - levels are 0. I assume this means my nitrate/phosphate issues and therefore, diatoms are coming from my food. I am now at day 11 with no water change. Diatoms are a bit better but still definitely an issue. What next guys?

To answer earlier questions, yes I do think the closed lid is contributing to my problem but . . . if I leave it open (remember I have a 24 gallon Nano and it's in my classroom - very dry air) I have major issues with evaporation. I already do top offs pretty regularly (when the heat was on, everyday) with RO/DI water. Do I deal with evaporation to increase oxygen? I do have a Koralia pump in the tank for extra flow. I forgot to mention that. I don't have it directed at the bottom because it blows sand around all over my corals. Its about a 1/3 of the way from the bottom to try and keep dead spots from developing.
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