Dinos? Peroxide dosing?

[Breakthecycle2]

I am trying to wrap my head around what I have in my tank. I am pretty sure it's dino's, maybe cyano and dino's. I had my water tested with Red Sea test kits. My Nitrates were undetectable and my phosphates were .07. A few days ago I sort of panicked and dosed red slime remover. It seemed to help a very little, but I could be wrong. Now, I think I want to try peroxide dosing. It is my understanding its 1ml to 10 gallons...is this accurate? Can I run my UV and carbon? Is there a better time of the day to dose it? Any cons against it?

This is my tank:

Its pretty much all over, this is just a small sample size:

The next two pics aren't mine, but is exactly what it looks like. It is not red, but it's a medium golden brown to a dark brown.

Cyano:

Apparent Dino's.

 

[Sniperhank]

All looks like cyano to me. It can be a tricky thing to get rid of. Increase flow and reduce the nutrients going into the water column. With large water changes and then siphoning the stuff out it should go away.
Peroxide dosing is a bad idea to the water column. Peroxide can kill off what it touches, to include corals and even bacteria that is part of your nitrate cycle. It is a risky move.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

But cyano, looks like that third picture with long strings with a bubble attached?

 

[Sniperhank]

With trapped CO2, it sure can.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

So what else can I do? Everytime I do a water change it seems to get worse.

 

[Sniperhank]

Ro/di water for water changes?

 

[Breakthecycle2]

Yes. I just bought a brand new 6 stage RO/DI last month.

 

[Reefing Madness]

Told you it was Cyano bro. Flow in those dead areas.
You can peroxide dose with no problems, there are way to many people out that doing it, and have done it for dinos, but, you don't have dinos. So theres no need for that.

I would wisp it away as suggested somewhere else, and get more powerfull powerheads, with a bunch more flow that what you have going on in there.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

I have a 1200 GPH return pump on full and two MP40's on full. I moved one of them about 6 inches of the sandbed and it hasn't done any good.

 

[Reefing Madness]

How could it not do any good? What setting do you have the MP40s on? They gotta be blwoing around the rocks themselves if yoe have them on the bottom or relatively close. the pictures show that the bubbles are standing straight up, not being blwon over to the side.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

It doesnt. I moved one of the Mp40's down after that picture was taken. They are at 100% and all it does is break pieces of this stuff when it clumps to together.

 

[Reefing Madness]

Your going to have to break it up daily, make sure its gone when you do this. Would be better if you could siphon it out when you did it.
I've run into this before. It did it to me when I went to LEDs. I just kept the tank cleaned up, and it went away by itself.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

Have you ever used chemiclean?

 

[Sniperhank]

Several times. Works wonders...as a temp fix. It'll go away, but the nutrients will still be there. Chemiclean and red slime remover both work in similar ways, and your skimmer will overflow for some time afterwards. This only slows the nutrient removal down if you don't have a plan in place.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

I used red slime remover twice and it didn't remove it. My issue is I don't know where the nutrients are coming from. My phosphates tested .07 with a hanna checker and my nitrates were undetectable with a red sea kit.

 

[Reefing Madness]

.07 is not bad really, considering your close enough to the norm of .05-.03 area.
You've got a combination of flow, nutrients and possibly iron in your water thats creating the issue. You could run carbon to remove the metal build up, keep wisping it away with your hand, and or powerheads, and remove as much as you can. What is your ALK numbers? You can get them up slightly and that can also have an affect on it.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

Im using ROWA, which I just changed after about 7 weeks of use. I have two 11 oz Chemipure Elite in each filter sock. I replaced both socks yesterday. I did three or 4 15-20 gallon water changes over the last few weeks. I was using Tropic Marin Pro-Reef salt, but yesterday I did another water change and switched to Tropic Marin Bio-Actif salt mix. I also did two dosed of red slime remover and an only using blue lighting. No whites which seem to fuel them. I only feed once a day, either Elos pellets, mysis cubes or oyster eggs.

 

[Reefing Madness]

Holy cow that alot of work. Using GFO and ROWA and Chemipure Elite, those things using Ferric Oxide, you gotta test weekly for phosphates, keep track of that number, as soon as you see it slide one notch, or get higher, the media is exhausted, and needs replaced immediately.
When you feed the Mysis Cubes, do you thaw them in SW first before adding to the tank, or do you just throw it in?

 

[Breakthecycle2]

I hold it as it dissolves. Im just trying to figure out if its just simply because my tank is new or if there is something else because for the most part I don't really have any other algae.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

The thing that really confuses me is I have a separate mantis shrimp tank with just a HOB filter and a small powerhead. I originally used it as a QT tank with no sand. Once I got the mantis, I added some sand that I bought. I have never had a diatom bloom or algae of any kind in that tank. I overfeed the mantis all the time as well.