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Old 10-22-2006, 01:51 AM   #11
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If it were me I would remove the bio-wheels now and let the LR cultivate the bacteria if you have 1.5-2 lbs. per gallon.

Just realize it may set the cycle back a little but if you are going to remove it you should do it now to save headache later IMO.

As Mel stated the bio-wheel will aid in rising nitrates and if you ever decide you want corals it will be even more of a challenge.
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Old 10-22-2006, 03:06 AM   #12
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Bio wheels have been removed.




...we went to the GA Aquarium today. Neat in that we kind of get to check out some fish species, bad in that we're now dying to have fish in the tank. So it goes. Patience is a virtue and whatnot.



About the Powder Blue Tang -- is there any pre-treatment for ich we can do on him, or should we forego that kind of tang altogether?
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Old 10-22-2006, 03:17 AM   #13
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I would hold off until the tank is established and you have some experience. They are more prone to ich for sure.
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Old 10-22-2006, 12:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike469
I would hold off until the tank is established and you have some experience. They are more prone to ich for sure.

Okie dokie. Figured it would be the last fish added anyway. Which would put us some months' off to begin with.


Are there any good "Tang-only" books/research out there?
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Old 10-22-2006, 01:28 PM   #15
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You could start doing some research on the net. There are alot of tangs. You have a good size tank for most of them. Only a few require larger like 180. If you want one so do your research and ask here.

Here is a place to start:

http://www.liveaquaria.com/search/default.cfm
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Old 10-22-2006, 10:41 PM   #16
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Today's tests. (We only did these two, don't see a reason to waste supplies unless you guys think more data is needed):

Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: .8

That's the start of a good cycle right?

Once nitrites bottom out, we do a PWC, restest and can start adding some stock, correct?
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Old 10-22-2006, 11:03 PM   #17
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More data is needed for sure.

At the very min. you should test for amonia, nitrites, nitrates, and PH for a FOWLR.

For a reef I also test for test calcium, alkaline, and phospahtes. Phosphates are a good idea for any tank as well. High levels can lead to algae problems from overfeeding and tap water to name a few.
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Old 10-22-2006, 11:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike469
More data is needed for sure.

At the very min. you should test for amonia, nitrites, nitrates, and PH for a FOWLR.
In the long term I understand this, but do I need to test all of these on a daily basis just while doing the cycle?
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Old 10-23-2006, 01:08 AM   #19
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parameters

Well kind of. You at least want to add on PH to make sure it is stable.

As far as Nitrates they are usually high at the end of a cycle when you would do a 50% PWC.

If your are staying with FOWLR at least test PH with the rest. It is important to keep it stable.

I hardly ever test amonia and nitrite now but it is very important in the beggining.
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:54 AM   #20
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Ok, I'll run the full load of tests tonight and will post results.

Thanks again for all of your help, we're trying very hard to do this right the first time and not deal with dead fish.
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