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Old 03-06-2006, 10:36 PM   #11
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OK,, thanks everyone.. I have tested for phosphate= .1 on seachem test, nitrates= 0, so I don't see that being an issue I was also told to test for magnesium and alkalinity. All my normal reading are good PH= 8.2, nitrites= 0, nitrates=0, and ammonia= 0. I am totally confused now LOL My temp stays at right around 78 always so maybe that was an issue with the turbos. My salinity is usually kinda high I think around 1.025. I can't seem to figure out the massive algae problem thats why I wanted to boost my clean up crew,, but can only keep crabs alive. Thanks for everyones help


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Old 03-19-2006, 11:36 PM   #12
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how about the specific gravity?

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Old 03-20-2006, 12:57 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by fishman2
how about the specific gravity?
He just put that up... 1.025.

I would suspect your acclimation methods more than anything. Try nassarius, they seem to be more hardy than turbos. It seems like your water parameters are in line, and even if you had a ragingly high alk level like 21 dkh it shouldn't make your snails die, unless, of course, you're not acclimating them properly. Try the drip method. It really does work the best. Do you know if you're getting ph flux and how bad it is when you turn your lights on and off? Do you have a refugium on 24/7 or on opposite schedule as your main? Do you have any macro algae, or just nuisance algae? If you're going to test for mg/magnesium, you should also be testing for calcium, because it is how much ca you have that determines what your mg levels should be. Do you dose your tank with iodine or iodide? Too much of either can kill inverts. Copper is another possible culprit. If you use tap water, don't use hot water, because it WILL have copper in it from your hot water heater. If you use RO/DI water in house, you could still get copper if your membrane is old. If you use tap water, it is possible depending on the age of your home that you're getting lead in the water, or high iron from galvanized plumbing. Really, RO/DI is the way to go. And the best way to get rid of nuisance algae is first to starve it, and then to out compete it. This is one case where caulerpa comes in handy... I used caulerpa prolifera to out compete the hair algae in my tank, then fed it all to the tang! Now I have gracilaria in my sump/fuge and in my main, and my hair algae problems are nearly over. Of course, this was with blenny and tang grazing to help. The other option, is if you don't have coral, do a blackout. Just wrap the tank up with towels and leave the lights off for a few weeks. Your coralline can't do anything under hair algae anyways, and the hair algae keels over pretty quick without light.
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Old 03-20-2006, 01:02 AM   #14
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Yep, I think acclimation is more than likely the core issue, as he stated above, floats to temp but no drip to adjust to water... Try drip acclimation next time
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Old 03-21-2006, 12:29 PM   #15
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It is all abotu the poshpate (po4) I would think. However you said you tested in and it was 0.1 which is good.

Did you test for calcium?? Need good levels of that for your inverts.
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Old 03-23-2006, 04:19 PM   #16
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I always have to wonder when I see statements about how sensitive ocean creatures are to temperature change. Has anyone here ever actually swam in the ocean? There are thermoclines everywhere. You can be swimming around in nice warm water then, bam, an easy 10 degree drop as you move up/down in the water colum. I don't recall seeing any of the fish in the ocean drop dead when they swam through it. That's not to say you shouldn't acclimate your fish, I just have my doubts about how much temp swing bothers fish. I think it's much more likely that salinity and ph change are what you really need to acclimate for.

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dyi, dying, snail, snails

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