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Old 07-15-2010, 12:03 AM   #31
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I started the design for my sump. The only chamber I have drawn if for top off water. the pipe running through it is for an external return pump if I decide to go that direction.
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:42 AM   #32
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Going back over the chiller discussion -
Its like a little fridge with an inlet and an outlet - it would probably be pretty easy to drill two more holes in the above design you have. Well worth the investment to save pricey corals from overheating in the middle of summer.

I think with some models, you don't need a heater either - the chiller will keep the temp steady at whatever you set it at - someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 07-15-2010, 04:06 AM   #33
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You can hookup the chiller inline with the return line and a chiller will not heat your tank...it's a chiller. Most good chillers have an outlet so that the chiller thermostat controls you cooling and turns your heater on if the water gets to cold. The heater plugs into the back of the chiller.
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Old 07-15-2010, 04:17 AM   #34
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I must have been looking at the top of the line Chiller:

"Aqua One Arctic Water Conditioner with built-in titanium heat exchanger
For many fish species, particularly in Marine set ups, it is vitally important to provide a constant temperature. In the summer when the water is heated through excessive sunlight or even in the winter when the house is artificially heated the water in the aquarium needs to be cooled and during colder periods in the house it might have to be heated to reach optimum temperature. The Aqua One Artic does just that. You set it to the required temperature and it will maintain that temperature at all times.
The Arctic range of chillers are amongst the easiest units to use on the market. They minimise temperature variations to within 0.5°C."
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Old 07-15-2010, 03:03 PM   #35
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Yes this one has a heater element, but it also is a 1.5hp so it's for a very big tank. and at 999.99 euros it is expensive.
Thanks for the information.
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:18 PM   #36
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Whoa - $999.99 euros!! I found it on an Aussie site for $650 AUD
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:58 PM   #37
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Anyone see any minuses to using flexible PVC pipe instead of hard pipe.

1. easier to repair (Versus Sawing it out)
2. Less head loss
3. Easy to run everywhere.

I know it is expensive but I think the cost of this stuff versus the pipe and the FITTINGS i would need for hard pipe is about even.

3/4" Flexible PVC Pipe, Sold Per Linear Foot - AquaCave#
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:20 AM   #38
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Couple of new pics today. The first is the begining of my "paint job". It came out GREAT! I will post pictures of it tomorrow. The second is my new toy....
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:30 AM   #39
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Ok..

Chiller, Most of the time sits outside your tank so it can draw in fresh air, inside the cabinet it'll get to hot. So you sit the chiller next to your tank and drill 2 holes for the hoses.
Like so.


I dont know how hot it gets where you live, But if your planning on having MH with a hood (even with vents) and having a full reef then i'd say you need a chiller. I got mine off ebay for $187 Aussie dollars, Rated to 600L. Perfect for my tank. (4x2x2). Have a look around, its not like you have to rush and go get one. They're other ways to go about it, you could add fans blowing the surface of the DT. Also add RO/DI ice blocks into you sump. But a chiller is a non worry item. Will not have to worry about temp fluctuating.

My tank is open hood, And still temp rised 2c at the end of the MH lighting period.

As for the hoses, I think run hoses in your sump to PVC pipes. Imho, PVC piping done right looks neat and good. Tubing looks not as neat i dont think.
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:47 AM   #40
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I might Add a couple of bulkheads but this (If things go like expected) will be my sump


Yes I will be adding more holes and bulkheads....why...Chiller, Phosphate reactor, Calcium Reactor, Carbon Reactor, etc. I will plug them on the inside until needed.
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