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Old 10-01-2004, 11:21 AM   #1
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Finally Ready For A sump!! Answers Please!

I have asked some of the questions before, and I cannot find where that post is. Anyway, I am now really ready to set up my sump, and I have some xtra cash so I am going to do it. I a aware of the articles out there I just need some answers from you guys.

1. How much is it going to cost aprox. to set up my sump with a rubbermaid tub about 18g? I have one corner built in overflow, with 2 holes at the bottom of it, with what looks to be 1 1/2 inch in diameter.

2. What size pump? 75g tank

3. I want auto top off, how much will that cost?

4. Can I do this? I am a complete dummy to the sump thing. I dont know where to begin. I dont even know wha plumbing to get, and where to put it.

5. Can you give me a list of all the parts I will need to do this? I complete list for a sump with an auto top off.

Help me please.
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Old 10-01-2004, 04:12 PM   #2
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Bump! I'm shameless!
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Old 10-01-2004, 04:41 PM   #3
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1. How much is it going to cost aprox. to set up my sump with a rubbermaid tub about 18g? I have one corner built in overflow, with 2 holes at the bottom of it, with what looks to be 1 1/2 inch in diameter. More than a dollar... less than a thousand You can do it fairly cheap. The biggest cost will be the Return pump. The rubbermaid tub and PVC for the plumbing are pretty cheap. If you get flexible tubing... thats a little more pricey.

2. What size pump? 75g tank Depends on how much flow you want it to have and how far below the tank the sump will sit. Do a google for "Mag pump head height flow" and that will tell you what size to get based on the answer to those questions.

3. I want auto top off, how much will that cost? <$50. You can get a float switch for apx $7-8 on ebay and you can get a solonoid from home depot. (not sure of price). and theplumbing bits should be relativly inexpensive.

4. Can I do this? I am a complete dummy to the sump thing. I dont know where to begin. I dont even know wha plumbing to get, and where to put it. Yes you can. Take your time, plan it out and DRY FIT EVERYTHING to test for fit before a single drop of glue hits those parts!

5. Can you give me a list of all the parts I will need to do this? I complete list for a sump with an auto top off. Nope. too many variables. Get a piece of paper and sketch out your plan. Then go over your sketch and label each piece. Then turn that into a shopping list. Then post your sketch and shopping list here and we'll tell you how well you did!
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:01 PM   #4
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See what I really dont understand is how you get the water to stay at one level, and inside the overflow does the water just flow over the edge and go out the hole in the bottom?
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:03 PM   #5
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I was also wondering if I could set a wet/dry into the rubbermade as kinda a baffle deal?
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:10 PM   #6
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Overflow: Build one of these, http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

(the second hole in your overflow can either be for an additional standpipe, or for the return water plumbing. If you use it for return plumbing, the plumbing simply goes up through the voerflow and is directed over the top of the water.

Same level explained:
the pump will continually pump water into the tank that will spill into the overflow. This way the main tank is always at the same water level (the top of the overflow).

The water in the overflow travels down the standpipe and into your sump. It's then pumped back up to the tank.

You will install the float switch in the sump so that when the water level in the sump drops (from evaporation) the float switch activates a solonoid that supplies water to your RO filter which in turn re-fills your sump. As the water level rises, the float switch will shut off, which shuts off the solonoid which stops the RO filter.

[edit]corrected link[/edit]
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:28 PM   #7
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Oh Ok!! I think I am making it harder than it really is.

Ok, I can do without the floatswitch for now.

What about the idea of placing an old wet/dry filter container in the sump to house like a refugium?

Also how would you know how much water to add and stuff?
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:31 PM   #8
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Hey in that link of the standpipe that cuts down on the sound of the water, the pipe goes straight up then has that little elbow where the water enters.
The pipe goes on up. How far does it go up, and is it just an open pipe at the end to keep it primed?

Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PS. Kudos to you!
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Old 10-01-2004, 05:40 PM   #9
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It looks like the return hole is 1 1/2" And the drain hole is 1 3/4".

Also how many gallons an hour flow would I want?
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Old 10-01-2004, 06:14 PM   #10
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Also how many gallons an hour flow would I want?
Depends on what other equipment in your tank is creating water flow. you'll want probably a minimum of 5x of the total sump volume in flow to keep enough flow going through it. (nothing wrong with having more!)
and I think you're exactly right on the hole sizes in regards to what they are for.

The pipe goes on up. How far does it go up, and is it just an open pipe at the end to keep it primed?
Take a look at the "make one yourself" page on that site. Gives all the parts in detail. It only goes up an inch or so and has a small hole drilled into it. This is only there to allow air to escape for self priming.

What about the idea of placing an old wet/dry filter container in the sump to house like a refugium?
Sounds like a perfectly valid option to me. i would put the drain pipe from the tank and direct it right into that fuge area. The water will then flow through the fuge, then over into the rest of the sump, then into your return pump and back up into the main tank.

Also how would you know how much water to add and stuff?
I'm not sure what you mean here. if you are concerned about overflowing during a power outage then how you check for that is fill the sump about half way. Turn it on and let it run for a few minutes so that everything is doing what it should and the level in the tank and in the sump are now constant. Then mark the level in the sump somehow and turn off the power to the return pump. The water in the drain and return lines will settle into the sump and raise the sumps water level. Compare this level to the original mark and this is how much room you need to leave at the top of the sump to avoid an overflow during a power outage.
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