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Old 05-25-2005, 11:40 PM   #11
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you will get it worked out... i have not had to fight the diseases yet or ich or anything, no looking forward to it, hopefully it wont happen anytime soon.... with what all is happening, have you looked into the water you use or anything ?
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Old 05-25-2005, 11:50 PM   #12
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Yes I have checked the water that I use. I use tap water, I have tested it and have found nothing wrong with it, no nitrates, ph is at 8.2 or so, I haven't tested for phosphates and some other stuff, but don't have any algea problems or anything like that, just the ich and fish dieing.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:02 AM   #13
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Hi,

I think the key here is patience. You really do need to take your time, months in my view, to set things up.

Also, when I choose my fish I always spend at least ten or more minutes watching the behaviour of the fish in the tank at the LFS and take a very good look at the quality of the fish. If I see any signs of disease or fin rot, etc I do not bother with it. That's the only way you can do it in my view.

If you have a spare tank, you could move the inverts from the main tank into it, and then treat the main tank with some more harsher remedies for your diseases. Whitespot/ich is a prick of a thing, and there are some good remedies which work on fish but nuke your inverts and corals.

If it were me, I would not add any new stock to your tank now and concentrate of resolving each problem one by one. Make sure you have sufficient good bateria levels in there, do water changes using treated water (if possible) with a monthly wait period between them and if you want to use remedies, make sure you come back here and ask first.

The bottle labels are not always right, and they don't take into account your specific situation, but the collective input and experience here can at least guide you better than what a 2c label can.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:09 AM   #14
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I think that my water quality is good, I haven't had much of a problem with any of the quality, except for maybe nitrates which will go up to about 80 on my test kit. That is when I do about a 30 gallon water change, this will get it back around 40. I have never got it any lower then that, I blame this on the not so good skimmer, but I could be wrong. I was thinking that it might be a temp. change that is causing the ich, I am just out of ideas. Once again thanks for everyones comments and thougths.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:32 AM   #15
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i think i would do what flanque suggested with removing inverts and such.. or qt'ing one or 2 fish and treating them for along time and see if they get any better - **and stay better** in the qt first.. then if they do fine its something else .. if it were me id qt everything i could.. maybe 1 or 2 or so to qt tank . fix their problems and slowly restock the main tank with them .. and let things slowly progress from there
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:35 AM   #16
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As for the ich, i would say the best solution could be taking your fish out and put them in a seperate tank which seems like you alrdy have extra tanks.Since it is only a fish only (i assume from the fish u are keeping) tank, it would be way easier to starve the ich to death.Before puting your fish into the new tank give them a 5-10min fresh water bath and i think this should be able to do the trick.
Correct me if i gave the info wrong cuz personally i never had ich.Oh maybe add some cleaner shrimp? from wat i heard they will eat the becteria
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:17 AM   #17
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I beleive this is what I am going to do. I really appreciate everyones help. It looks like I should be able to gain some control here.
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
all I have left is a snowflake eel and a vlion, and a humma trigger, who resides in the first 55.
Are these fish all in the 55? or
Is the EEl & Vlion in the 75g and Trigger in the 55?

I agree with qting these fish and treating but vlion and copper dont do well together so you have to be careful when treating the lion with copper.

If they are all in the 55g together I could see them getting ich, I would say Stress. The Volitan is a docile fish and Triggers prey on Volitans, if the Trigger is not picking at the lion it will be a matter of time.
Lions can go with certain triggers (Crosshatch, Niger, Pinktail) but not Hummas, than it will become a stress issue. The 180g will ease the stress but that Trigger will grow and the attitude in it will change.

Kaye
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:27 AM   #19
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The trigger is in a 55 and the snowflake & lion is in the 75, I plan on keeping the lion & snowflake. The trigger will go back to the LFS.
If I take the fish out of the 75 and Q, use Hypo again, and use a UV Stearlizer on it, do I still wait the 4-6 weeks?
Thanks
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:45 AM   #20
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For killing ich, the first thing you should do is move your fish to a quarantine tank. Just let your inverts stay in the main. Right before place your fish in the QT tank, give them a freshwater bath, like oyf709 said
Quote:
Before puting your fish into the new tank give them a 5-10min fresh water bath and i think this should be able to do the trick.
. After you give them a freshwater bath, put the fish in your QT and leave them in there for 3-4 weeks and treat them with a proper medication until the ich is gone. The reason you have to wait for 3-4 weeks is because you have to let the ich in the main tank finish its life cycle. You said you run a UV sterilizer on the tank? If you do the ich will probably die faster, but be on the safe side and wait 3-4 weeks for the ich to die. And the next time you choose fish, do what flanque said and observe them for 5-10 min to make sure the fish is healthy and disease free. Another way a breakout of ich can occur is if the fish are put under stress.
HTH
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