Frustrated, need suggestions

[SpEd]

I have had a moderate ongoing battle with cyano. Purchased a protein skimmer, but when it arrived from UPS, it was broken. I am in the process right now of returning it and getting a replacement.

The problem is i am leaving in a week for a 6 day trip to disney world and the cyano seems to be getting worse. I even broke down and added chemclean yesterday, but have seen no response as of yet. I am also going to be getting a sump once we get back from our trip, but what can i do about the cyano in the mean time?

In addition, I think my blue tang is sick.

In the last week I have done 3 twenty gallon partial water changes spacing them out every other day. water parameters are as follows:

ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate: 0
Alkalinity: ≈ 280 ppm
Calcium: 420 ppm
Phosphate: 0
Silicate: < 1.0 mg/L

I am frustrated bebeyondords and unsure what to do until my replacement skimmer comes in, but that may not be for 2 - 3 weeks. any help would be greatly appreciated

on a positive note, my corals seem to be doing good, all fully opened.

 

[Hara]

are you siphoning the cyano out daily?

you have ehieim cannisters listed in your signature...what do you have as media and when was it changed last? You might want to take out all the media and use the cannisters for circulation. Usually, the cannisters and live rock will work against each other.

 

[SpEd]

I am syphoning the cyano.

The media is as follows:

First stage - eheim mechanical filter (EHFIMECH)
rest - is the biological media (EHFISUBSTRAT)

The media is less than a year old.

How does the cannister work against the live rock?

It would seem that the biological media would turn into live rock equivalent of liverock rubble. I can understand how the sponge material in the filter collects waste and can produce excess nitrates if not clean on a regular basis, but have never understood the argument about why cannisters are bad for SW tanks. I thought that they would work like a "closed sump" without the extra water volume of the sump.

If I do take out the media, do I have enough live rock in my tank to handle the biological filtration? I am scared I would cause my tank to recycle.

 

[Hara]

it is pretty much the same as having a trickle filter and live rock. The filters are little nitrate factories. I would take out the mechanical filtration (Floss/sponge?) and then slowly remove the biological. This will allow the liverock to catch up to your needs where yes, if you yank it out all at once, you might have problems. If you really want to keep the mechanical, it should be rinsed out or replaced weekly.

 

[seaham358]

IMO I don't see that filter being an issue(seems like you clean it), with 80 lbs of LR if you wanted to yank every thing out today it would be fine. How much can the filter hold 1,2 3 lbs of product... This is nothing when you have 80lbs of natural filtration...
What type of water are you using? Have you tested your top off water for PO4?
Just because the tank reads 0 it does not mean it there, the cyno is using it to live so its keeping the reading low so the test kit won't pick them up.
Make sure when you do water changes your salt is mixed well(24 hrs) and it is brought up to temp.
Any power heads??
As you know a protein skimmer is needed... Syphon out cyno when doing water changes, test top off water for PO4 and NO3..
How long are your lights on for??? Cutting back can help slow the cyno down..

 

[SpEd]

I have been using RO/DI water for about a week now and it has been used in all the recent water changes. The water has been mixing at least 24 hours, that is one of the reason for the changes every other day. The temp is within a couple of degrees.

I have tested the water prior to adding it to the tank and PO4 is 0.

I have a pretty strong powerhead and with the return of the filters, water movement is pretty good in the tank. I may reposition the powerhead to direct the current more toward the substrate.

Lights are on 8 hours a day.

 

[quarryshark]

what is your feeding schedule? You can always scale it back, especially for the period of time that you are gone. May help as well.

 

[SpEd]

I usually feed every 2-3 days.

How much if any can I cut done of feeding and light without having a negative affect on my corals?

 

[electrikat]

I think the question is "What are you feeding?" I use tap water and had a very recurrent cyano problem for about 6 months. I have now been cyano free for over 6 months since we started making our own food. Apparently the frozen foods have alot of problem ingredients in them that cause cyano outbreaks. Did you say chemi-clean or was it chemi-pure?

 

[quarryshark]

Yes, what are you feeding? Fish only need to be fed every 2-3 days. It also helps to drain any packaging fluid from the frozen before adding.
2-3 times a day sound like a lot for any animal.
This may be your main source of nutrients that is feeding the cyno.

 

[SpEd]

Sorry for the miscommunication. I am not feeding 2-3 times a day, once every 2-3 days.

For the fish I am alternating between frozen brine shrimp and Hikari marine S pellets. I have also been adding dry sea weed thats chopped in a food processor for the tang, who, by the way, I found dead this morning in the tank.

For the corals I have been alternating between kent PhytoPlex and Kent ZooPlex.

I had been considering making my own since reading some recent post, but the skimmer and sump had been on my list ahead of food, but since that is going to be delayed, I may try to whip up a batch this weekend.

 

[arminkropp]

Is it just me or is the Alk also way to high? I thought it was supposed to be around 120-130.

Are you dosing Kalk?