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Old 03-29-2006, 09:54 PM   #31
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Ya I looked at that site and I have everything set except for the pvc pipe. The problem is that if I cover the vent hole and shut off the water out put valve then the water is even with the collection cup ring, then if I adjust the needle-wheel pump valve then I will get some foam, but when I uncover the vent hole and open the water out put valve and then open the needle-wheel pump valve then I have water half way up the collection cup, then when I adjust the needle-wheel pump valve to where it is almost closed then I get no microbubbles inside the skimmer.

The pic show that I have the out put valve closed complety and the needle-wheel closed half way.

Just does not make since.
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Old 03-29-2006, 10:14 PM   #32
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These skimmers seem to be temperamental until after the break-in period. I have the 125 model and it was driving me nuts when I first started it up. Microbubbles all over the place, and tons of wet skimate. Pay attention to what the instructions say as far as setting the heights on various stuff and let it run for a couple days before you get too worried.

Does it have a drain hole in the collection cup? If so and you start getting a lot of wet skimate, you may want to place a bucket under it and attach a piece of airline tubing so it can drain into the bucket. I had to do that with mine. Was getting tired of emptying out the cup.
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Old 03-29-2006, 10:22 PM   #33
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I had followed the instructions to a tee put when I open both valves though I get water going all the way to the to of the cup lid, so right now I have the red knob ( for the water level) off completely. Oh also is that to much bubbles going up the skimmer or is it fine.
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Old 03-29-2006, 11:34 PM   #34
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I can't comment specifically about the 65 model, but when I set my 125 model up I also follwed the instructions exactly. Mine produced a lot of clear wet skimate for something like 2 days before it settled down. They need to build up a thin layer of scum inside before they can be adjusted properly. If it's foaming into the collection cup when you think that you have it adjusted properly according to the instructions, then it probably just needs to run a while and break in. I'm assuming here that the foam is rising up kinda steady but not "pouring" into the cup. If you can adjust it down so that the foam level is halfway up inside the collection cup, that may be the best you can do right now. Somebody else just went thru this same thing with the 65 model, I think it was pkremer. You might want to catch him on-line or PM him for how his break-in period went.

The pics look fine actually. If the water level will stay steady the way it is in the pic, i would just run it right there for 48-72 hours.
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:03 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdFish
The pics look fine actually. If the water level will stay steady the way it is in the pic, i would just run it right there for 48-72 hours.
Agreed the photos look almost identical to what I experienced for the first 3-5 days. I use mine in the sump but that shouldn’t be any different. For the first couple of days you will experience very little true skimmate but eventually you will be able to kick the bubbles up a bit more.
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:49 PM   #36
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So then it is fine then to have the water going up further than the cup band?

tecwzrd, I forgot to answer your question yes the measurment for my tank is what you had posted. But what I was wondering if I was to go with a 65w 10000k daylaght bulb and a 65w blue would that make any difference on what I would be able to have as far as coals? Or should I just think about getting a different light altogether?

Thanks for all of the info, and sorry if I sound a little dumb but just want to do it right this time.
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Old 03-30-2006, 02:51 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SassyAngel111
So then it is fine then to have the water going up further than the cup band?
Slightly but keep it as close as possible. It’s not the water so much as the wet foam that is going up right?


Quote:
Originally Posted by SassyAngel111
I was wondering if I was to go with a 65w 10000k daylaght bulb and a 65w blue would that make any difference on what I would be able to have as far as coals? Or should I just think about getting a different light altogether?
That’s only a 20W increase which wouldn’t change the initial recommendation for low to medium light corals.

You also can not just change bulbs from 55W to 65W without also changing out the housing for them. Ballasts are designed solely for the bulb it’s intended for.

As far as changing them out you could opt for MH if you just have to have high light corals/inverts like certain anemones or clams for example.

Adding a 175W 10-12K MH light to your existing PC lighting (Changing your PC lights to both 03) would be the most effective way. Still would run you around $160 with bulb and shipping plus you would have to make a DIY canopy to house them all.

You could buy a MH/PC hood ready to go but then you are looking at $250+ for a 30” setup.
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Old 03-30-2006, 05:00 PM   #38
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Quote:
So then it is fine then to have the water going up further than the cup band?
Think I see a possible point of confusion. In the pics, the water is not entering the cup. That straight section of pipe is not considered to be part of the cup even though it is attached to it. When you actually start skimming, you're going to want to raise the foam level so that it is actually just inside the cup. Where you have it adjusted to in the pics is probably the perfect spot for it to break-in at
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