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Old 12-28-2004, 11:48 AM   #1
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Green Algae

I have been cycling my tank for 7 days now and I have started to see some green algae growth on the underside of some of my LR. I do not have a cleaning crew yet, (hopefully sometime soon).
The LR was cured when purchased and I am getting my water tested today.
Temperature is steady at 76 and I run lighting for 8 hours on a timer.

Is this normal growth at this stage in the game?

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2004, 12:18 PM   #2
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There is no specific timeline for algaes to start appearing. It really depends on the amount of nutrient and water source used for the most part. It's actually a good sign.

Once you get the water tested post the results. FWIW, I think you would be much better off purchasing the basic test kits so you have them on hand. When problems arise you will often not have the time to wait. NH3, NO2, NO3 and pH being the minimum.

I would also suggest increasing the temp a bit more. 76° is a tad too low. Shoot for 78-80° which is a fairly decent "happy medium".
What's the salinity?

As far as the lights go, they do contribute to the growth of algaes but it won't make any diffeerence if you run the now or later. The algae will still be there waiting for the right conditions to grow. IME, it's best to just let it burn itself out, especially in a newly cycling tank.

Cheers
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Old 12-28-2004, 02:25 PM   #3
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I just got back from my LFS.
Here are the results from the water testing:

pH 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0.3
Nitrate 12.5
KH 10
Salinity 1.026

They suggested that I wait another 4 days and then bring in another sample.

While I was there I purchased testing supplies to perform all of the above tests and I also purchased buffers.
I am going to test on a daily basis for the first three weeks, (keeping a log) and they, (the LFS) told me that should give me a good indication of how my tank cycles.

I also will be increasing my temperature to about 79 degrees.


Any other input is greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-28-2004, 02:35 PM   #4
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For now, just test the ones I mentioned. Unless the rock is encrusted with heavy life (corals and such) the alkalinity is not really all that important and 10 DKH is just fine. As long as the pH remains stable, the alkalinity does not need maintaining at this point. You also have no need for the buffer. If anything, do a water change before fidling with the chem.

Keeping a log is a good practice. Once the NO2 comes down and remains undetectable along wth the NH3, your tank has cycled and you can then do a large water change (upto 50%) to bring down the remaning NO3.

Cheers
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Old 12-28-2004, 03:44 PM   #5
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Thanks for your help Steve.
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