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Old 01-29-2014, 06:22 PM   #21
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Sounds like it stn(slow tissue necrosis) or rtnd (rapid tissue necrosis) on you from the change in lighting.
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:38 PM   #22
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It didn't like something. It happens, that's why small frags are the way to go. Some things aren't meant to be. If it was light intensity it would have pretty much bleached all at once. As it died bottom up, it was probably a flow, or water quality issue that set it off. As I mentioned before, getting a fresh frag from a supplier doesn't work out as well as buying a established one that has recovered from the fragging process. The whole fragging process plus moving to a new environment all at once, is just too hard on some sensitive corals.
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:40 PM   #23
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I believe if it had been from the lights it would have started from the top not the bottom of the coral.
Led lights were the Tao Tronics.
I do water changes every two weeks. 25 to 35 gallons.
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:44 PM   #24
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That's not been my experience with SPS frags. They tend to bleach very fast, it isn't a long drawn out process. And the whole frag bleaches. Has anyone ever seen a SPS frag that just part of it bleached, then recovered? I may be mistaken, but that's how it works by my observations. I still doubt it was the lights. Good luck!
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:29 PM   #25
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Here is a great post about proper coral fragging and what to look for as a consumer. It parallels what happened to your slimmer perhaps?

http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/uniq...-industry.html
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregcoyote View Post
Remember the cost of the RO/DI is just the beginning, cartridges, membranes and resin adds up. But it's still preferable and cheaper than toting water from the LFS.

What's resin used for? I have a four stage RODI with three filters and a membrane. What am I missing here?
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Old 01-30-2014, 12:07 AM   #27
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Green slimmer turning white.

The "DI" part of RO/DI is "Deionized" or the resin. You may have a cartridge that contains some, or it is an option stage for your filter. It generally changes color as it's used up. It grabs the last little bit of dissolved compounds and produces purer water. Many coral growers use it.
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:03 AM   #28
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So I just add this? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single...-canister.html

I actually have the resin cartridge and never knew what it was because I have a four stage system. This could be why my hair algae is persistent.

How long does resin typically last and how much better is a DI stage with 2 chambers vs one?
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:56 AM   #29
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Omg! .75 or $1 per gallon is ridiculous. I buy my water for .25/gallon for now. I'll invest in a rodi unit eventually. But you really NEED to buy your own rodi filter at those prices. It's only slightly more expensive to buy from lfs than my own rodi for me. But at those prices the unit would pay for itself quickly.
I do own my own rodi lol. Just stating what the price was
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrettyFishies View Post
So I just add this? Single Deionization Canister - Bulk Reef Supply

I actually have the resin cartridge and never knew what it was because I have a four stage system. This could be why my hair algae is persistent.

How long does resin typically last and how much better is a DI stage with 2 chambers vs one?
Don't you have a TDS meter? If you don't, it's invaluable. That's the only way to know when your filters need changing. That will answer the question of how long the resin and your filters last for you.
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