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Old 07-03-2014, 03:51 PM   #11
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If you feed the fish, at all, you are adding nutrients the corals can utilize. But as said, it's a balancing act if you want levels low enough to starve algae yet not starve the photosynthetic corals.


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Old 07-03-2014, 05:21 PM   #12
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For now the obvious IMO is the acidity and the light duration. If your phosphate reading is accurate and reliable to be negligible or undetectable then you are accelerating the hair algae efficiency to absorb whatever nutrients you have that there is nothing left for your media to absorb.
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:27 PM   #13
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I hear you on the hair algae ingy. I have red in my tank along with a spot of cyano.
Like you, almost no phosphates and 0 off of nitrates. That is because it is being consumed, like Greg mentioned.
So, what to do?
Cut back on your lighting schedule if you can.
Cut back on feeding, I'm currently doing a half cube of mysis 3 times a week currently - down from a full cube. It probably cost my green mandarin it's life...but hindsight is 20/20 at this point sadly.
See if you can adjust your skimming to get more out of your water.
Increase water changes with ro/di water.
Double check TDS on your Ro/di to ensure a reading of 0.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:09 PM   #14
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Grrr, Persistant Green Hair Algae

I absolutely hate starving my fish. These guys eat continuously and have evolved to have little food storage capability. Especially herbivores. I made the decision long ago to add whatever filtration was necessary so I could feed daily.

I doubled the protein skimming by adding another skimmer. I run a 22 year old ATS, have a refugium and have a big Phosgard reactor. All that and I can have fat fish and SPS.


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Old 07-03-2014, 07:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregcoyote View Post
I absolutely hate starving my fish. These guys eat continuously and have evolved to have little food storage capability. Especially herbivores. I made the decision long ago to add whatever filtration was necessary so I could feed daily.


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If it was an option on my end, I probably would. Everyone else is in a good space, just keeping up with the constant feeder that a mandarin is wasn't happening...at least that is what I believe.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:14 PM   #16
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I hear that, not everyone has a fish room to hold all this stuff. But stock according to your systems capabilities, right?


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Old 07-03-2014, 07:25 PM   #17
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I hear that, not everyone has a fish room to hold all this stuff. But stock according to your systems capabilities, right?


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Always. But, I'm also probably one of the few using distilled water from Walmart running a reef tank. Took awhile for the algae growth to bother me again. Some growth is ok in a display, but it can become overbearing if not monitored. For the weeks going up to my wedding, as an example, the algae wasn't and even a cyano bloom returned. It killed some of the tissue on my orange plate coral and the hair algae grew over a birds nest frag.

The point here is that algae always needs watched and if it is getting out of hand, utilize the steps listed above to engage in a long battle with it.
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:38 PM   #18
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I hope you agree with this statement taken from the same source I posted earlier.

"More alkalinity is necessary to create a stable water environment with a neutral pH balance, according to the University of Rhode Island. When water contains a higher alkalinity level it means that the water is able to neutralize more acidic compounds, such as algae, in order to maintain a more suitable living environment for aquatic animals and plants. Lower levels of alkalinity, however, cause acid to build up in a water environment, thereby skewing the pH balance towards a more acidic level, which inspires the growth of algae."

Read more : PH Alkalinity for Growing Algae | eHow
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Old 07-03-2014, 09:56 PM   #19
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Alk can be a cause. I've done that battle. Not something I suggest though due to the chances of throwing things way out of whack.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:31 PM   #20
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I have 150 gal and a 28 gal nano and I dose both with the same ratio of baking soda in a ro/di ato to maintain my alkalinity to 9 dKH. As a reference I mix 1/2 tsp of baking soda per gal of ro/di. If one has to raise alk gradually from 7 dKH, a good start would be just increasing the ratio a little bit more gradually while taking daily readings. But before you do that, the mag should be at 1300 or above.
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