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Old 07-06-2014, 06:07 PM   #21
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Well, I've taken some drastic measures. I have removed over 1/2 my live rock and put it into a separate container to 'cure'. Just a heater and a small circ pump to keep the water moving in the garbage can. A tight lid should keep the light out and hopefully in a couple weeks the algae will be gone.
I checked the levels in my fresh water change water as I was suspecting the new salt (FluvalSea) might be part of my problem. dKH was fine at 9.8, and pH is still running at 8.3. BUT, magnesium in the new water is only 1200ppm. So that is why I have had a hard time raising it up. Calcium is at 450ppm, and those 2 things might be the root of my Alk problems. In my tank, even with Mag dosing, I've struggled to get over 1400 and have increased my doses. Low Mag and high calcium (I don't dose that at all) have probably caused excessive calcium carbonate precipitation, lowering Alk.
But, despite my low Alk, my pH is still at about 8.3, so I am not sure if that is the root of the algae. But I am still heavily dosing it and my corals are looking better.
Latest tank levels are Alk - 9.1 and pH 8.17. Mag is only 1320 (grr).

Love the feedback, keep it coming.
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:28 PM   #22
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I'm going down the same path with alk. I even accidentally knocked half of my dose, which I put in with my ato during evap, into the sump and got to watch the calcium precipitate. Was pretty neat to watch.


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Old 07-06-2014, 09:36 PM   #23
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IMO your latest readings "Alk - 9.1 and pH 8.17. Mag is only 1320" are perfect with cal at 400. Here is your problem before. Your mag was way too high while your alk was in the borderline and your cal was too high. The way I do the balancing act is set Magnesium first within 1300 and 1320 then adjust Alk to 9 dKH before dosing calcium to reach 400 ppm. I avoid dosing cal if alk is just 7 dKH or below. Keep in mind that whenever you dose one of them there is a tendency for the other 2 to go down. So you do it gradually and monitoring them closely.

Edit: Adding comment on the LR you removed for curing. BB needs oxygen so I would not put a tight lid on the container. I'm sure you put raw shrimp to feed them with ammonia or nutrients.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:37 AM   #24
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I have been battling GHA in my nano over the past week. 0 nitrates and phosphates (Salifert and Hanna, respectively). 8.4 pH, alk at 9.2something. Calcium around 410. (These numbers are from memory from my PWC last night), didn't do a mag test yesterday, but last I checked, it was acceptable.

I target feed each of my fish (2 clowns and a goby), and my cleaner shrimp, so that they each get a piece or so of mysis shrimp. I do this with purpose and intent so as to not flood the tank with excess nutrients.

That being said, I've been using the Prodibio Reef Kit Nano, and started using the Reef Booster portion recently. I realize that's a load of nutrients in the tank, but (supposedly), it's akin to carbon dosing and should help with the algae growth. I'm not so sure that's the case, but I'm going to tough it out until I've used all the vials and will see what's up at the end. I've read on other boards that using this can cause any of the deep "stuff" in the LR to leach out, causing a temporary outbreak. My skimmer is getting lots of gunk out of the water now, though.

Also, one thing I did notice, the tank is getting some late day direct sun, not much, and not for long, but that might be a contributing cause. Unfortunately, I don't have blinds in that room (but will by the end of this week).

I'm hoping that one of the above, or perhaps a combination, is the root cause and can be rectified in due time.
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Old 07-07-2014, 09:34 PM   #25
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I'm late here, but do you rinse your frozen food? I was getting creamed with GHA. Started rinsing the food, running GFO and phosgard, and it's subsiding...


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Old 07-07-2014, 10:15 PM   #26
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I use pe mysis. No gunk, just shrimp. I pick individual shrimp out for each fish, I don't just dump the cube in..

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Old 07-08-2014, 03:03 AM   #27
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As for me, I have used frozen, but it's well rinsed first. And I haven't fed anything in quite some time.
Phosgaurd in the reactor


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Old 07-12-2014, 03:30 PM   #28
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Still struggling. The lid on the garbage can isn't air tight at all. Collinista snails and brittle stars are doing fine. But I did add a second small pump pointed at the surface to keep it agitated. I'm thinking about adding an air pump to the curing garbage can just to ensure O2 is ok.
I had raised Mag so as to try and get rid of the algae. I have read in many places that is 1 technique to try. I just cant get it up with large PWC and very very low Mag in my salt. The PWC just keeps dragging mag levels down. I don't dose calc at all. IMO 450 calc in the water change water is too high.

So the next question is how much clean up crew up crew do people have? I've seen (on wholesalers websites, probably high) as much as 1 blue leg hermit per gallon, and 1 scarlet per 5 gallons. Well, I don't have anywhere near that many in my 110G. I have 1 scarlet, and 3-4 yellow or orange hermits (that look very similar to scarlets except the color), and less than a dozen blue legs. No red legs thank gawd, they're just snail eating monsters. at least 4 Turbo snails too.

I'm wondering if I should go all out and order a big bunch of clean up crew. Unfortunately the LFS are much higher priced than the Canadian supplier, but because I live on an island, I would have to pay for air mail. Over $200 I don't, so if I get it from them, I'm going to have to go big. But I'm not sure if I should go all out because I'm still having algae issues?
Thoughts!
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Old 07-12-2014, 03:58 PM   #29
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CUC are optional IMO. They do little for organic loads as they recycle anything they consume. I guess they can be helpful in getting bits of food out of cracks, but I've run several reefs without them just fine. They can be entertaining.


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Old 07-12-2014, 04:24 PM   #30
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That's sorta what I'm looking for. Something to convert GHA into poop. Then my skimmer and cheato can try and extract it.
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